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New find

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Gary pope

Gary pope

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New find I just got back from picking up a 94 XP with the 657 exit motor in it. The guy that I got it from stated to me that it would start up fine and run real good, but after an hour of riding it get back to the DAC take a break for a little bit and then he tried to start it and it wouldn’t crank over really really slow. What could be causing it? He stated that it was a new battery at the time and that all the connections were cleaned from the battery To the motor. Any thoughts?
 
Could be a tired starter or and engine issue. I hope you checked the compression before you bought a used ski/engine.
 
Ok...here’s where I’m at now..I just got done checking it out...I hooked up my multimeter yo it, it was at 12 volts...as soon as I cranked it over, it dropped down to 7 volts...so I took the plugs out and I noticed that I was NOT able to turn the crankshaft by hand, not even a little bit do this leads me to believe that I might have bad crank bearings..am I right to think this?
 
Gary pope said:
But if that were the case, it wouldn’t turn over at all would it? When it does turn over like I said it drops down to about 7 V and turns over really really slow
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If the brass gear is stripped it will.

Easiest check first is the pump like Sportster suggested.
 
OK so I got the jet pump pulled off, the jet pump spins freely with your hand, and the motor fired right up you could spend the balancer with your hand and all, so there must be something going on with the driveshaft then correct?
 
Here’s what I found out..I pulled the pump off and the motor spins freely now.....the jet pump spins easily too though...so I put everything back together and so far no issues...starts right up everytime...should I be concerned with this? What could have caused it?
Also what is the trick to getting the red round cover off on the port side so I can service the Vts motor?
 
Yeah but the thing is as soon as I got the pump off, i did spin it real easily, no binding st al of anything like that..
 
I would pull the pump, drive shaft, and check the coupler bearing for rusted, seized, or partially seized coupler bearings, also check the splines on both ends of your drive shaft and look for wear on the splines, and therefore previous posts are on track, that would suggest a misaligned motor/pump. If you pull the shaft, check squished drive shaft dampers in the impeller end , and more so, in side the pto wheel, it's a long shot, I had one where the motor was placed too far back and created pressure on the prop/pump. Also, before you start pulling anything, check that your motor mounts are not loose, and usually bent.. Just grab the exhaust and try to rock the motor, side to side. The earlier motors with 4 point brackets have/had a history of motor mount brackets bending, from wave jumping. It's really good luck if thats your problem, easier than an engine tear down, new brackets are on line.
 
OK I just got done taking it out for the first time in years when I found out. When I first put it in the water he ran great, however now it will idol fine but when I called to give it wide open throttle, it seems to ball down and go back-and-forth back-and-forth until it finally catches. I also noticed that there is a white film is substance on the inside of my chalk plate. Where can this be coming from?
 

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You need the airbox, or it might be lean and hesitate, possibly even detonate. Not that there isn't a problem but don't judge the way it runs as a problem if the airbox isn't installed.

Generally white oily film contains a bit of water. I believe I see some water droplets on the black paint of the carburetor?

If there's water sloshing around this can be injested and will certainly cause issues depending on how much.
 
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Yeah I was running it without the airbox and flame arrester, open carbs. I threw the flame arrester back on and seen her in a little better so like I said this is just my first time taking it out so I wanted to see how it was going to run. Runs much better now that that flame arrester is on now
 
Never run these without the airbox. You will run lean and ruin the engine, also you risk an explosion as the screen is also a spark arrestor and required on any marine vessel.
 
Gary pope said:
Yeah I was running it without the airbox and flame arrester, open carbs. I threw the flame arrester back on and seen her in a little better so like I said this is just my first time taking it out so I wanted to see how it was going to run. Runs much better now that that flame arrester is on now
Click to expand...

A big gotcha that seems to occur too often and is easily avoidable is airbox screws seem to find their way into the carburetors. Don't want you to be another victim, the correct screws are long enough to avoid this possibility. Their length is such that if they do back out from vibration, they cannot fall into the carburetor.

I'm not sure yours has this particular airbox design but if it does, this might be one of those things to be aware of in advance.
 
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