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new 951 di engine needs to be primed/bleed but HOW?

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Also, the RAVE valve blades were checked and fitted to the cylinders by the engine rebuilder, right? If the cylinders are bored oversize, the factory size RAVE blade must be trimmed or the rings may be bent by dragging on the RAVE. If this happens, the ring seal will become no bueno.
 
"fuel level sensor" causes no RPM limit + "MAINT + red led + no buzzer

"Diagnostic cap removed fault" causes no RPM limit + "MAINT" + red led + no buzzer

All of my symptoms, no rpm limit, maint light, red light flashing and no buzzer.

Yes both of the raves were sent to SES and only one of them had to be cut/milled, I called and asked if maybe he forgot and he said that one was good and other one needed work.
 
Called SES and he said to run it and see if it rides normal, got the hose on the ski and got almost 4900 rpm but no more rpms, the maint light is on and the red light flashing, this was the last test before going to the lake later today but I guess I'm on limp mode>
 
Not sure if you mentioned this, but does your maint light come on right after you install the lanyard? No starting, or anything? If so, you may have a sensor or TPS that is out of range. In the manual there are specs for resistance checks on almost everything the MPEM is looking for at power on. It can take some patience, but if you have a decent multimeter & some short jumper wires, you might be able to trouble shoot it. This is how I found a problem with my cooling temp sensor.

otherwise you'll have to bring it to someone who can read the code/s.

Also, when the light comes on do you get any beeps, or just the light? Is your buzzer working? do you get 2 beeps when you install the lanyard?
 
Look down inside the two throttle bodies with throttle full open (engine off) and make sue both throttle butterfly plates are parallel with throttle body bore (max air)? If one isn't parallel with the other, it could cause some issues like limited RPM but MPEM limits RPM to idle or 4000, not 4900, so this makes me wonder what's happening, no idea right now except maybe throttle butterfly misadjustment.

Maybe I'm mistaken about MPEM 4000RPM limp mode limit, maybe it's higher (4900 RPM)? I can't find this 4000 RPM limp mode spec in service manual, only "limited RPM" and no spec., LOl.

Okay, but if fault occurs with engine off, no buzzer + RPM limit + red led + "MAINT" this provides some clues for the possible causes (a broad range of possibilities to check/eliminate from the table, for example it's not very low or very high battery voltage b/c it's not idle limited and there is no buzzer also, could be "crank position sensor fault" or "throttle position sensor dual adaption fault", as an example). You don't see any other message besides "MAINT", so it's maybe not one of those such as "HI-TEMP". Sorry, my only suggestion now is follow service manual procedure for checking each sensor.

I think you already know, it might be important to note if there were any key-on faults before swapping the motor, if yes then the same problem still exists, if no the problem is new?
 
68ragtop said:
"This is how I found a problem with my cooling temp sensor.
Click to expand...

This kind of sensor issue is why it's important to investigate and correct the problem, b/c many of these sensors are used by the MPEM to control air/fuel mixture. We all know what happens in a 2-stroke when air/fuel mixture is incorrect.
 
When I install the key it beeps twice and the dash come on with the flashing maint and red light flashing at the same time,went to the lake and they are working on the ramp so I couldn't even drop the ski, I called me dealer near by and they said 150 to tell me what code it is(what a joke).
 
I also printed the fault detection pages and I crossed the options that are not the same as what I'm getting, sucks I can't pull the code.
 
ricardo1 said:
I also printed the fault detection pages and I crossed the options that are not the same as what I'm getting, sucks I can't pull the code.
Click to expand...

Well that's a start! Since you're back in the garage then grab your ohmmeter and try electrical testing the various sensors and comparing the resistance and if possible voltage readings as provided in the service manual, injector resistances too. Try to notice anything else you may have overlooked at first, such as if the fuel gauge works, for example.

You might be able to locate an out of range sensor, the bad one is likely to have a measurement considerably different from the spec value.
 
Spent some time checking things and here is what I found(while the engine was off and no key inserted):
battery is good 12.61 when off high 13's when on and gave it little gas
all fuses are good
both fuel injectors read 2.2
both air injectors read 1.6
senson in front of tps on pro side was 2.373
senson in front of tps on mag side was 5.76
both tps read 000.2
rave solenoid read 22.7 intend of 24 like manual says
One thing I noticed is the sensor in front of the tps on the mag side had a lot of play in it.
 
Good progress! You should mention if measured units are volts or ohms for units. I hope you don't have a problem with the TPS sensor, the shop manual setup refers to using the VCK code reader for setting up. Maybe it's best not to adjust TPS unless you're sure there is some clear problem that you see. Make sure to read the shop manual on this procedure.

You should also check MATS, ETS, EGT and MAPS sensors, I think MAPS must be voltage check with key on, not resistance check, but follow manual procedure. In the case of RAVE solenoid, 22.7 Ohms is very close to 24 Ohms, so no problem!

I hope there isn't a problem with TPS, maybe disconnect the suspicious one and see if fault clears or changes?

You mentioned: "One thing I noticed is the sensor in front of the tps on the mag side had a lot of play in it. " I THINK this sounds like MAPS sensor, it measures the manifold air pressure. With engine off, the manifold air pressure will be equal to atmospheric pressure, no differential pressure from engine vacuum. The voltage output will correlate to 14.7psi, atmospheric pressure, when the engine isn't running.
 
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Good progress! You should mention if measured units are volts or ohms for units. I hope you don't have a problem with the TPS sensor, the shop manual setup refers to using the VCK code reader for setting up. Maybe it's best not to adjust TPS unless you're sure there is some clear problem that you see. Make sure to read the shop manual on this procedure.

You should also check MATS, ETS, EGT and MAPS sensors, I think MAPS must be voltage check with key on, not resistance check, but follow manual procedure. In the case of RAVE solenoid, 22.7 Ohms is very close to 24 Ohms, so no problem!

I hope there isn't a problem with TPS, maybe disconnect the suspicious one and see if fault clears or changes?
Click to expand...


Battery was volts and the rest of them was ohms, maybe is the tps or what I think an air injector giving the headaches, I say that because when I got the blown ski one of the cylinders got too hot, so maybe the wrong mixture of fuel and air made the engine go kaboom?
I will check the rest tomorrow hopefully.
I will try unplugging one tps at a time tomorrow and see.
 
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"both fuel injectors read 2.2
both air injectors read 1.6"
All are the same, so electrically there seems to be no problem.

"senson in front of tps on pro side was 2.373
senson in front of tps on mag side was 5.76"
This sounds strange possibly, what is this sensor, there are two of them and the reading is not same?

Knock sensor - check this one too!
 
Maybe the injector could be dirty idk, the sensor goes in the rubber part right after the reeds.

Sent from my LG-MS870 using Tapatalk
 
Yes, if the injector is dirty, the MPEM won't know it. The other sensor mounted in the rubber tube sounds like MAPS sensor to measure vacuum, but there are two of these? I think there's only one MAPS, the other is not a sensor connected to the wiring harness?
 
Yep, there is a TPS on each side of the throttle body, the MAP sensor is in the boot of the mag side & the air temp sensor is in the boot of the PTO side. Like Sportster said, a restricted air or fuel injector will not put the maint light on.

If the maint light comes on before you even start it up, I would think you could find the culprit.

Just to confirm, you did try holding the reset after installing the key to make sure it wasn't the scheduled, resettable warning?
 
When I got the ski it had the blown engine and the maintenance and the red light was on as well, I tried to reset the maint light but it's still there.
 
"the MAP sensor is in the boot of the mag side & the air temp sensor is in the boot of the PTO side."

Ah yes, the MATS sensor, good explanation, thx!

Ricardo,

Please check if MAG TPS and MAPS sensor connectors are the same, maybe they're swapped (sensor connector is installed crossed over to wrong sensor)?
 
The knock sensor is reading 4.88 and I switched the connectors and the ski comes on for a sec and it dies so the connectors are right. I unplugged the mag side fps and when i inserted the key it made a loud long beep, same when i unplugged the pro side tps.(light was still on both times I tried with the tps disconnected.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Are the resistance readings right from the sensors, or from the harness at the MPEM? you should take them from the harness (amp connectors) to rule out wiring or sensor connection issues.

Given the decimal point in your readings I am assuming these are k ohms?
MAT (air temperature) & Knock sound correct. 4.88 is exactly what My knock had from my notes.

I assume you have a copy of the service manual, correct?
 
68ragtop said:
Are the resistance readings right from the sensors, or from the harness at the MPEM? you should take them from the harness (amp connectors) to rule out wiring or sensor connection issues.

Given the decimal point in your readings I am assuming these are k ohms?
MAT (air temperature) & Knock sound correct. 4.88 is exactly what My knock had from my notes.

I assume you have a copy of the service manual, correct?
Click to expand...

The actual connector itself, yes the readings are ohms.
I do, I have up right now. My near by dealer 1hr away has me appointed for a computer reading with the BUDS system tomorrow morning so lets hope it's something small and nothing too big I'm glad they are charging me 25 for the diagnostic since I been there before.
 
Here's the pages with the spec ranges in case you want one more look.

I am guessing you already have these printed out seeing you checked them at the MPEM /AMP connectors.

$25.00 is a fantastic deal!
 

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