New 2000 GTX owner Have 3 questions

[rob04064]

Hey Guys, this is my first PWC but have been boating for a few years now. I need some help getting up to speed with a couple things which i will list below

1. What is the best way/technique to clean out the inside of my hull? Looks like I have two drain plugs on back and i want to get all the oily crud out of the hull. was thinking pull the plugs, tip the front way up and go to town with a hose, possibly some engine cleaner or simple green.

2. Need tips/techniques and product suggestions to clean the outside of the pwc, specifically the black plastic which is faded and chalky looking and the seat cover which is no longer shiny. I know armor all is the wrong thing to use.

3 What is the oil capacity? looks like there is a tube that goes down from the fill cap into a reservoir? do i top it off?

4. Is there an overheat and low oil warning chime of any kind? Looks like there is a temp sender in the head but not sure.

5. What is this? Pic attached. It is not attached to anything at the bottom


Anyways great site guys, and i am super pumped to get out on the water! Just need to get up to speed and know a few things before i jump in. Planning on hitting the lake next weekend!

 

[rob04064]

Sorry 5 questions not 3. Lol!

 

[GGuillot]

Hey Guys, this is my first PWC but have been boating for a few years now. I need some help getting up to speed with a couple things which i will list below

1. What is the best way/technique to clean out the inside of my hull? Looks like I have two drain plugs on back and i want to get all the oily crud out of the hull. was thinking pull the plugs, tip the front way up and go to town with a hose, possibly some engine cleaner or simple green.

2. Need tips/techniques and product suggestions to clean the outside of the pwc, specifically the black plastic which is faded and chalky looking and the seat cover which is no longer shiny. I know armor all is the wrong thing to use.

3 What is the oil capacity? looks like there is a tube that goes down from the fill cap into a reservoir? do i top it off?

4. Is there an overheat and low oil warning chime of any kind? Looks like there is a temp sender in the head but not sure.

5. What is this? Pic attached. It is not attached to anything at the bottom


Anyways great site guys, and i am super pumped to get out on the water! Just need to get up to speed and know a few things before i jump in. Planning on hitting the lake next weekend!

I can understand the desire to make it clean and shiny, but you've got some things I'd do so you don't trash the engine or sink it when you take it out.

1. I'd go through the fuel system, clean, rebuild, new oring, new fuel lines, new fuel selector, etc.
2. New oil injection lines.
3. Flush the jet pump, new oil, inspect bearings, remove pump and inspect wear ring and impeller.
4. Grease the PTO flywheel, check/adjust the carbon seal area, check/clean bailers that siphon from the hull.
5. Fresh plugs properly gapped.
6. Do a compression check to get an idea of engine health.
7. Verify and check all cooling lines, wouldn't hurt to replace with clear lines, briefly run on hose to verify flow and cooling.
8. Run a clean full synthetic 2 stroke oil, most are red in color, if in doubt what was used, drain everything and fill with the new oil. I wouldn't add any oil just to top it off. Not saying what oil to use, but BRP XPS 2T is the type oil you want, stick with an API TC type oil.

Last: Clean ski....

 

[rob04064]

Thanks for the response GGuillot! Much appreciated solid advice. I am actually in the process of tracking down a service manual so i can tackle some of these things without asking a million questions here ( unless you’d care to elaborate ) but so far have been unsuccessful at locating one.

I was able to ride the ski before purchasing so for that I am happy. I know where it came from. It runs good.

In response to your oil recommendation i do know that brp xps is what was used. I have a gallon of it on hand that came with the machine. I do plan on doing a compression test as well this week just to see where i am at. I was also able to watch the “telltale” on back of the machine to see water squirting out. Although i dont know what is the normal amount. Also if you wouldnt mind describing where grease fittings are located that would be great! Fresh plugs are a must.

If anyone cares to take a stab at some of my original questions that would be awesome!

Edited for more details

 

[mikidymac]

Inside. Castrol SuperClean

 

[rob04064]

Inside. Castrol SuperClean

Degreaser? Thanks for the response i will try that.

Does this ski have a low oil indicator and overheat indicator?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Oil tank has low indicator sensor, shows as red LED on most displays without any buzzer. Overheat sensor in cylinder head makes for constant buzzer sound.

The oil tank will hold quite a lot of oil, plan on about 50 gallons of fuel to one gallon of oil so that's a lot of riding considering the oil tank is quite large. I like to test my oil sensor, so I run till the light comes on then add 1/2 gallon at a time. I can see my oil through the tank though, so every day the level is visually confirmed (double check in case oil sensor fails).

I tend to run my tank under 1/2 full to avoid losing gallons of expensive oil if a leak occurs.

 

[rob04064]

Oil tank has low indicator sensor, shows as red LED on most displays without any buzzer. Overheat sensor in cylinder head makes for constant buzzer sound.

The oil tank will hold quite a lot of oil, plan on about 50 gallons of fuel to one gallon of oil so that's a lot of riding considering the oil tank is quite large. I like to test my oil sensor, so I run till the light comes on then add 1/2 gallon at a time. I can see my oil through the tank though, so every day the level is visually confirmed (double check in case oil sensor fails).

I tend to run my tank under 1/2 full to avoid losing gallons of expensive oil if a leak occurs.

Awesome information, much appreciated!!!
Got a gallon of brp syn coming in the black bottle..if i understand correctly it is the same as yellow bottle just updated packaging.

Also found a clymer manual. Best i could do. And have 4 br8es plugs coming as well.

I looked for the grey lines and looks like they have all been replaced. Oil in lines is red. I can report back with compression results if anyone is interested.

 

[rob04064]

Could anyone identify my pic in post #1? Is it supposed to be free hanging and not connected to anything at the bottom?

 

[mikidymac]

The factory manual is a free download. The Clymer one is junk.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Free hanging, it's part of the bilge ventilation system. Low pressure created behind your back pulls gasoline fumes settled low in the hull up and out while the hull is moving forward.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Most important part is how well it runs. If it hesitates and pulling the choke recovers it, best to fix fuel system issues else it will roast a piston due to lack of fuel (lean detonation occurs).

red is current color of Seadoo 2-Stroke oil. This year the bottle is black and has a bizarre e-tec emblem (marketing the e-tec trademark on products that have no relationship). Old bottles were yellow.

I guess your motor is RAVE, possibly the 951? All RAVE motors require full synthetic API-TC, especially the 951. I just buy the Seadoo oil b/c it's the correct oil AND b/c it's good oil. All my air-cooled toys are running on this oil and never ran better.

 

[rob04064]

Free hanging, it's part of the bilge ventilation system. Low pressure created behind your back pulls gasoline fumes settled low in the hull up and out while the hull is moving forward.

Thanks for the response!

The factory manual is a free download. The Clymer one is junk.

Expected to hear that! It will look good with my other clymer/haynes/chilton Junk service manuals!! Lol!! If you have a link to the free download, that would be awesome. I could not find it.

 

[rob04064]

Most important part is how well it runs. If it hesitates and pulling the choke recovers it, best to fix fuel system issues else it will roast a piston due to lack of fuel (lean detonation occurs).

No choke to my knowledge. Believe it is the efi model. Does seem to run rough at idle (kind of lopey) again this is my first pwc, if i remember correctly all my sleds kind of ran rough at idle too. Smooth at all other throttle positions including wot. Maybe this is normal?

Edited for more information

 

[mikidymac]

Google seadoomanuals. It’s literally the first one that shows up.

 

[rob04064]

Thank you mikidymac

 

[rob04064]

One last question for now. I read it is good to fog these after every use? Could someone describe how to do that for my model? I searched but seems to vary by model. Hoping tomorrow i can dig in a little and become more familiar

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

No choke to my knowledge. Believe it is the efi model. Does seem to run rough at idle (kind of lopey) again this is my first pwc, if i remember correctly all my sleds kind of ran rough at idle too. Smooth at all other throttle positions including wot. Maybe this is normal?

Edited for more information

DI 951 idles on just one cylinder.

 

[rob04064]

No doubt?

So DI 951 doesnt sound familiar to me tho. Think i have the gtx rfi ??

 

[rob04064]

On wikipedia it jumps from 94 models to 2000 but i only see carb specs with nothing inbeteeen. Mine says rfi on the body and i dont see carbs on the motor

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I'm not sure if 787 RFI idles on one cylinder, it might. Anyway, you won't know how well it runs till you get it in the water.

 

[rob04064]

Pretty interesting stuff. Ill have to report back tomorrow. Phones gonna die. Thanks for all the input

 

[mikidymac]

Yes the RFI idles on one cylinder and doesn’t have carbs. RFI = Rotax Fuel Injection

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Cast iron cylinder sleeves, good idea to fog it.

 

[etemplet]

Cast iron cylinder sleeves, good idea to fog it.

When you fog the engine through the intake, do you remove the spark arrestor? I worry that the fog will restrict air flow. I usually remove the spark plugs and fog that way. I know I"m not getting to the crank though. Hook a brother up.