NEED HELP! Seadoo GS losing power, jerking, and bogging.

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kennhis97gs

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Hello everyone, It is mid summer and my baby is having problems at the worst possible time. I could really use some help getting her fixed up and back out on the waves!

I have a 1997 Seadoo GS.

Heres whats going on: 2 weeks ago it was making a very slight jerking motion while WOT, to me it felt like minor cavitation. I would let off on the gas and then tromp on it again and it would clear up and be fine for the remainder of that ride. Park it and come out an hour later same thing only on first WOT and then it would clear up again. So I didnt think much of it, like I said I thought maybe beginning stages of wear ring and impeller wear causing minor cavitation.

That was friday evening and all saturday. Sunday morning I took it out for a ride and it was fine for about 10 to 15 minuntes of good solid riding then all of a sudden at WOT it just seem to lose most of its balls. I let off on the throttle and could feather it back up to WOT, this repeated a few times before I came into shore. I let it cool down and came back out about 2 hours later it was fine for about 5 minutes or so and then it started losing power, jerking and bogging a little worse then last time. Once again most times I could feather it and clear it out for 30 seconds or so before it would get into another "fit".

So I pulled it out of the water and pulled the plugs, one was pretty good, the other slightly fouled, so I changed them with a brand new set, I always use NGK plugs. I left it at that as I had to leave the cottage and go home for the week. I came back up last weekend and dropped her back in to see if the new plugs made any difference. Again about 5 minutes into the ride it starting jerking and bogging and losing power. I checked the fuel filter and it was pretty clean just a little sand in it, very small amount but I cleaned it out anyways. Still same problem. Only the next 2 short rides seemed to be even worse, with it now acting up almost immediately. Someone on shore even told me it sounded different taking off. They said the motor sounded like it had a lower hum to it almost a hollow sound, hard to explain but they said it defiantly sounded different then normal. Also they said they could notice some rattling coming from the back of it, which I know some rattling is normal from the impeller, not sure how to gauge how much noise it was making as I didnt want to send anyone else out on it while I listened in case it broke down on them because I already had to swim it back to shore earlier that day and it was not fun lol.

So thats where I stand with it now. I rechecked the plugs after they had 25 minutes or so of riding on them, half of which was bogging and jerking but they look perfect none the less. Seems to be usual amount of smoke from the exhaust. Starts pretty good cold, a little choke is needed and sometimes a small amount of throttle feathering, but seems to be starting as it always has. This is my second summer with this machine.

Sorry for the long post wanted to give lots of detail as to what was going on and maybe you will require more. I am hoping to get time tomorrow to do a compression test to hopefully eliminate that problem.

The motor has one new cylinder, I know this because it is a slightly different colour from the rest of the motor. The stock colour is a light beige and the replacement cylinder is a darker beige. Not sure what was all done to the motor before I owned it, (new pistons, new rings, head gasket, etc.??) Im assuming if a new cylinder was put in, atleast a new head gasket would of been installed. All I have done to the machine since I owned it is a new fuel baffle, new starter, new plugs, fixed an oil leak (end of hose was in rough shape cut it off and put it back on with a new clamp) and thats pretty much it.

Ok so there you have it sorry once again for my novel lol..any suggestions? Anything would be appreciated thank you. Also I have the shop manual for this machine for reference.

Thanks
 
Sounds like the dreaded fuel delivery problem! Do u have the grey fuel lines?

Have you checked the compression? Just something to knock out of the way!
 
yup, what he said. replace the fuel lines and selector switch, go thru carb/s, and be done wit it.
 
Hey ya i still have the grey fuel lines so i will look into replacing them, would like to do it myself only problem is i have no idea how to repressurize the fuel system afterwards. I just checked the compression and it doesnt look too good :(

Cold Compression: Front Cylinder: 120 psi, Rear Cylinder: 112 psi
Warm Compression: Front Cylinder: 119 psi, Rear Cylinder 108 psi

Not the best numbers there I know, but are they acceptable? Should I still go ahead with replacing the fuel lines and that or just cut my losses with this machine and ship it out?

Thanks.
 
That's not good numbers! It's up to you! I know it sucks because juts mid summer! Changing the lines and cleaning the carbs, especially the filters inside, might get u through the summer? It's a tough calll!

More than likely it's the filters inside the carbs!
 
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If you want to get it though the season... replace the rings, and clean the fuel system.

But, once the weather gets cold... plan on a top end rebuild.
 
Ok so let me ask you this. How hard is it to rebuild the top end. I can get the cylinders bored and a new top end kit from fullboreonline.com for around $300 bucks plus shipping and do the work myself, just want to know how difficult it might be. Is there any fuel and/or oil system re-pressurization to be done afterwords, etc?

Ya it is a tough call, I dont want to spend the time and money on the fuel lines/carb and still have problems. It has ran good all summer, very peppy and fast, even with 2 people on board. Not sure what the compression has been all along but last year I did a compression test cold and i beleive the numbers were around 125-front and 119 rear, which even then werent the best numbers but it ran great all last summer and this summer up til 2 weeks ago.
 
If you want to get it though the season... replace the rings, and clean the fuel system.

But, once the weather gets cold... plan on a top end rebuild.

Hey thanks, do u mean the piston rings? I didnt know you could buy just the rings? What other gaskets would have to be replaced at this juncture if i just replaced the piston rings?
 
The top end isn't that bad! Get u a manual!

The fuel system cleaning will cost u a can or two of Gumout, and $3.00 for gaskets! As long as nothing is damaged!:cheers:
 
The top end isn't that bad! Get u a manual!

The fuel system cleaning will cost u a can or two of Gumout, and $3.00 for gaskets! As long as nothing is damaged!:cheers:

Ok ya i got a shop manual so im thinkin i could prolly handle that, get some lock tite and a small torque wrench and follow the instructions carefully should be easy enough.

For the fuel system im thinking that replacing the old grey fuel lines and atleast cleaning the carb is in order, and maybe even getting a carb kit.
 
Not all carb kits are created equal! Make sure u get a Mikuni kit! I would reuse the spring on the needle and seat!

If u follow the manual you'll be okay! If u snag u know where to come!:cheers:
 
ok thanks alot man! much appreciated! I dont know what im gonna do yet, pretty strapped for cash right now as I am laid off, may have to call it a season and fix it later. But I got some great suggestions here so I should be able to atleast fix this on my own. :hurray:
 
Sorry to hear bout the job thing! I work in Aerospace and we heard they're cutting 1500 jobs? Bummer seeing as though profits were up 15%?

I'd shop around! I think you can find rebuild kit for top end for $300.00! I know there was a thread about it recently!

Anyway good luck to ya! Hope it all works out for ya!
 
your losing compression/leaning out cylinders-pistons...because your carbs are gummed , from the grey fuel lines...;)
 
your losing compression/leaning out cylinders-pistons...because your carbs are gummed , from the grey fuel lines...;)

hey seadooya heres whats im thinking...replace the grey fuel lines, and possibly the selector switch and clean the carbs and rebuild them and see how that goes. If all is well use it for the rest of the summer and then next spring do a top end rebuild.
 
I dont think you need to rebuild the carbs. I'd go through them and clean them really good. As long as the diaphrams are in good shape, i.e, no tears or holes. Clean them and call it good. The filters inside are where you'll see what happens when the lines break down. I would pull the needle and inspect it. Mos Def replace the selector. It's cheap and easy. Make sure to route the lines just as they are. One at a time. Good luck to ya! cheers:
 
I dont think you need to rebuild the carbs. I'd go through them and clean them really good. As long as the diaphrams are in good shape, i.e, no tears or holes. Clean them and call it good. The filters inside are where you'll see what happens when the lines break down. I would pull the needle and inspect it. Mos Def replace the selector. It's cheap and easy. Make sure to route the lines just as they are. One at a time. Good luck to ya! cheers:

ok thanks again! Well im off to the trailer for the weekend. Its supposed to be hot and sunny all weekend and I have no seadoo :( I guess I will be on the beach watching everyone else have fun on their machines. :mad:

Next week I think I will tackle the dreaded grey fuel lines and maybe have it back together for the following weekend. Thanks again for your help, I will keep ya posted.
 
Repressurize Fuel Lines

Do the fuel lines need to be re-pressurized or at least refilled (with a gas/oil mixture?) as they are replaced? Or can the lines all be replaced and the suction of the fuel pump be adequate to refill them?

If need re-pressured, how is that done? I have a GTX Limited that has the dreaded gray lines.
 
Not really! As long as everything is done correctly! Pour a little premix into the carbs and get it started! It fill the lines on its own!
 
Do the fuel lines need to be re-pressurized or at least refilled (with a gas/oil mixture?) as they are replaced? Or can the lines all be replaced and the suction of the fuel pump be adequate to refill them?

If need re-pressured, how is that done? I have a GTX Limited that has the dreaded gray lines.

It wouldnt hurt to do a pressure test, pressurize to about 5 psi, maybe check the shop manual for ur watercraft tho, but mine is 5 psi, I will likely do it to mine after i swap eveything to make sure there is no leaks.
 
Back to Square one....

Hey everyone who was helping me with this issue before. So I had a buddy take my ski out for a ride. He works on mainly stand ups but has repaired several seadoos as well over the years so i had him take it for a good ride. It stalled on him a few times and once it did he had trouble getting it going again. He seemed to think that fuel wasnt an issue here and that it is elecltrical. We didnt have anyway of checking the spark at the plugs once it stalled but he is leaning towards an electrical problem somewhere. The problem is his says he cant help me much with an electrical problem because it could be a number of things and he doesnt have the necessary equipment to run diagnostic on it.

So here i am back at square one and i really dont want to go to the dealership i hate those assholes lol. Any thoughts? anyone know where i could buy a new voltage regulator online? The one thats on it does even look stock, and the wires have been cut and spliced, previous owner did that. So I thought maybe i would start there??
 
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