• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Need help once again

Status
Not open for further replies.
Going to try to keep this as short as possible. Bought a 98 Sportster 1800 missing an engine. Bought a 95 xp to swap 720 engine into boat. Swapped engine myself into boat. The engine that I swapped in ran rough, idled erratically revving itself real high then coming back down. I figured it was the carbs but decided to get a mechanic. My bike mechanic (whom I trust) recommended and vouched for some guy he knew. Dude came out and tried to diagnosed both engines. The original engine that was already in the boat didnt want to stay running. Exhaust was coming out of the coolant/hose input line so he concluded that the o-rings on the top cover are no good (which sorta makes sense). Now on the engine out of the ski he said there was a leak/escape somewhere, although compression checked out at 135/150psi. First he pointed out it could be coming from where the carbs meet the manifold. So we quick fixed and put rtv on the joint. Didnt fix anything. Then he found that the crank seal behind the pto has a SMALL leak, no drip just a little leak. Said that was the problem and before I knew it had the whole engine out and torn apart. Then he found VERY VERY VERY SLIGHT play on one of the pistons (side to side not up and down). He said unless I change that piston with all its goods (bearing, etc), it will continue to run rough. It didn't make sense why he didnt check the carbs first but I was desperate. He told me to order the top end rebuild kit along with crank seals and that as soon as I get them he'll get to it. They just got here today and now hes giving me the run around, so I told him to F-off. So I guess my question is will these issues really make the engine run the way it was running. It would take time to start, and when running would rev up and down on its own at times. I'm going to go ahead and do the rebuild myself. How hard is it to do the crank seal? I ordered both but will probably only do the seal behind the pto. Thanks in advance.
 
Wow... sounds like that guy is a total Jack-off....

I'm not sitting in front of the engine... but.... The pistons move in the jugs. You should have +0.008" clearance. Also, the crank seals need to have the case split to put it in the engine case. (not a trivial thing to do) AND... RTV around the rotary valve housing is not a fix for ANYTHING !! Not to mention... it's not totally fuel proof.

Without being there... your problem is fuel related. I don't like the 135/150 compression... but the carbs need to come off, and they need cleaned. Also... the fuel system needs checked for an air leak.
 
Wow... sounds like that guy is a total Jack-off....

I'm not sitting in front of the engine... but.... The pistons move in the jugs. You should have +0.008" clearance. Also, the crank seals need to have the case split to put it in the engine case. (not a trivial thing to do) AND... RTV around the rotary valve housing is not a fix for ANYTHING !! Not to mention... it's not totally fuel proof.

Without being there... your problem is fuel related. I don't like the 135/150 compression... but the carbs need to come off, and they need cleaned. Also... the fuel system needs checked for an air leak.

Side to side piston movement is not unusual and will NOT cause the problems you are having - maybe cause noise but they all have side to side play. There is more than likely an air leak after the carbs causing the idle to jump around.

2 strokes are picky bastards... they are not like car engines where surfaces have some tolerances. Everything must be smooth and clean to seal properly. I would replace the rave valve gaskets and get the engine running. a small amount of carb clean is perfect for finding intake leaks. Do NOT drench the engine but once it is running you spray some carb cleaner on/around all of the gasket surfaces on the intake and anything that goes into the cylinders one at a time singling out any air leaks you may have.

Start with the carbs though. They can cause numerous running issues.
 
:banghead:
WOW is all I can say...

I thought you would have gone through the carbs first.
At least you'll have a top end kit lol
Send them to Dr for a cleaning if you don't want to but its back to the garage.

I'm still looking for engine for my project :(
 
I would replace the rave valve gaskets and get the engine running.

Either I'm crazy or my engine doesn't have rave valves. I just searched and searched and finally found some pictures of what rave valves look like. I don't think my 720's have them? Any input...?
 
Either I'm crazy or my engine doesn't have rave valves. I just searched and searched and finally found some pictures of what rave valves look like. I don't think my 720's have them? Any input...?

:)
you dont have them
 
the 720 did not have raves. Your issue is not from the piston movement but with 135/150 compression you might as well do the top end rebuild while you have it its gonna need it soon. As for the idle issue like everyone said if its reving up and down its sucking air. While you are doing the rebuild you need to take everything apart anyways so just replace all gaskets on the engine and clean the carbs while you are at it. Also i guess i cant understand how your backyard mechanic diagnosed you with bad crank seals. That might be a guess, unless you are spraying a ton of oil out your cylinders they probubly arent bad. Start with a top end and replace the gaskets and your problem will more than likely go away.
 
Either I'm crazy or my engine doesn't have rave valves. I just searched and searched and finally found some pictures of what rave valves look like. I don't think my 720's have them? Any input...?

Ha. My bad, I obviously completely ignored that part of your post.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top