My FIRST 97 SEADOO GSX PROJECT.

[sselzer]

I just brought this 97 SeaDoo GSX for $350. The 787 engine compression is c-1 142 c-2 148. I PO replace the rotary gear and tried to start the engine making it back fire and install. It looks like he didn't time the rotery right. I removed the Carbs and do they need a good cleaning and a rebuild. The rotary valve cover has some groves in it from the rotery rubbing, but I think it will be fine; as for the rotary it self no needs replacing. The fuel lines are a mess, some were unplugged or falling apart
View attachment 15807

 

[sselzer]

Need some need here?
what is this and where does the missing bottom hose connect to?
Picture of from the bottom
Picture from top

Also what is this part called for the heat sensor that sits on top of the engine next to spark plugs; can't find it in the repair manuel?

 

[Matt Braley]

It's a primer and the hoses go to the fuel line soon after the baffle and then to a little spray bar on each one of your carbs. It replaces the choke and makes for easier starts.
Looks like you have a R&D flame arrestor and a Coffmans pipe. Your water routing has been changed to work with that "dry pipe" so don't heed the manual on that part.

 

[sselzer]

It's a primer and the hoses go to the fuel line soon after the baffle and then to a little spray bar on each one of your carbs. It replaces the choke and makes for easier starts.
Looks like you have a R&D flame arrestor and a Coffmans pipe. Your water routing has been changed to work with that "dry pipe" so don't heed the manual on that part.

I also have a choke cable too, and I found a temp sensor on ebay.

 

[Matt Braley]

That is odd because the primer was supposed to replace the choke cable. Those temp sensors should not cost you over $15 shipped.

 

[sselzer]

Used heat gun and removed all hull decals they weren't worth saving and I just ordered some parts from STB.
1 Rotary valve 159 degree
1 degree wheel
1 rotary cover O RING
2 Carb base gaskets
From ebay 2 Winderosa rebuild kits $27.99 each
1 used temp sensor.

I'll take some more picture in a few days to post.

 

[sselzer]

That is odd because the primer was supposed to replace the choke cable. Those temp sensors should not cost you over $15 shipped.

Every where new it's $35 and up. Where can I find it cheaper?

 

[manolocross]

You should NOT use winderosa rebuil kits on carbs. The pulse diaphragm sucks and can give problems... Just get genuine mikuni pulse diaphram and the other winderosa gaskets should be ok to use. The pulse diaphram is the gasket with metal disk attached. The winderosa pulse diaphram can give you carb problems because they are not up to mikuni spec.

 

[sselzer]

Actually they are Mikuni not Winderosa sorry.
Here's some pictures of the rotary cover you can see some groves from the rotory rubbing against it, probably from before the gear was replaced.

Here's a picture of one of the carbs after soaking it in super clean, probably will have to use a wire brush of get the rest of that white powderly stuff off. I would like to repaint them black.

 

[Matt Braley]

That RV cover is toast! Those are some pretty deep groves. Looks like it ate something at one time.
$15 was a used shipped price for a sensor, I understand it being $30+ if your going new.

 

[sselzer]

I paid $20 for a used sensor. I"ll have to check around for a new rotary cover then. Thanks for telling me, I would have just used the same cover.

 

[sselzer]

Does anyone have any extra bolts and a choke cable part # 270000237?

I need the 2 long bolts that connect the carbs to the rotary, I also need 1 bolt for the rotary cover and 2 bolts for the airbox. Please pm me if you can help. Thanks

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Yup I have all the parts you need...I would have sold you that senor cheaper too in a package deal. $2o is right by itself.

 

[sselzer]

Does anyone know if they sell fuel line replacement sest of any model or do you to just measure and cut each line your self?

 

[nammer]

i don't know if they do or not, but it's prob just easier/more convenient/and cheaper to go to advance auto parts and cut it yourself

 

[sselzer]

Does anyone know how I can flush out the oil in the crank case, without taking apart the engine? Their was some fine metal shaving under the rotary cover, from a bad rotary. Please help?

 

[manolocross]

If you had metal shavings whole engine needs to come apart and cleaned an inspected but the rotary gear oil bath won't have any metal shavings because it's separate from engine. Sealed off in its own compartment.

 

[sselzer]

well under the rotary cover is some super fine metal shaving, from the rotary rubbing against the cover, won't that get into the two openings under the rotary?

 

[manolocross]

The two openings is straight into engine and crankshaft... That is why the engine needs to be cracked and inspected. I know it's bad news but the engine will live an extremely short life!!!

 

[sselzer]

Makes sense.

 

[racerxxx]

.



Any job big or small, do it twice or not at all.

This is what you say if you don't do it right the first time.

You'll be repeating that if you don't open that engine up and clean it out. Only gonna cost you a gasket set and some Threebond 1211 to put it back together. If you don't, it could be a crank, etc.....Check the holes in the base gasket BEFORE you tear down the engine. You should be able to see them between the jugs, insert joke here. Also, what does the rotary surface look like on the cases?

 

[sselzer]

It was like a metal slugg, not sure if it made it into the engine, just being carefull the compression test was 145 and 148.

 

[Jetskigoodies]

Compression test are sometimes misleading especialy if you havent had it running, sometimes there is oil or water in the bottem end and that can give false readings. Just throwing that out there. Looks good though. Any signs of metal shaving and im getting that rubber mallot and splitting those cases

 

[sselzer]

I'll be taking out the engine shorty, I'm a virgin at this. Should I rebuild the carbs first?

 

[sselzer]

Alright I have the engine out and the top end off. I don't see any metal shaving from the rotary disc yet.
At this point does anyone know if I can just flush the crank case and shaft out with one gallon of carb cleaner or do I have to crack the case open?
Also does anyone sell Sea-Doo 787/800 Complete Gasket Kit cheap? Let me know.
Will post pictures soon. Time to go to the truck wash and clean out the hull. Sean