Mpem question

[68ragtop]

There are three wires. black is common ground, The white wire is the wire that reads the keys serial number, & the black/yellow is the wire looking for a ground when the key is placed on the post. So all you need to do is place the key firmly on the post & supply the common ground to the black/yellow. this will bypass the reed switch in the post & should turn on the MPEM if everything else is fine.

Don't mess with the white wire, & don't disconnect the solid black wire.

 

[Davidgsx]

Lol!!!! Got it and thank you, I do owe you one. I love learning new shit at my age, of course that means I've just forgotten something, shoot I hope it wasn't important!!


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[68ragtop]

Lol!!!! Got it and thank you, I do owe you one. I love learning new shit at my age, of course that means I've just forgotten something, shoot I hope it wasn't important!!


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The wonderful thing about the internet.
transparency........ trust me, your not alone

I still ride my toys like I am 25 & boy do I pay for it.


Let us know what your test results are.

 

[Davidgsx]

I sure will, it won't be until I get "garage time" from the wife


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[Davidgsx]

I'm staring to feel bad about choring you but....
I jumped at the switch and nothing, I put key on and had continuity, maybe I was testing wrong pins at mpem? After removing key continuity remains for a minute or 2? Any ideas what I should check next?


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[Davidgsx]

Here is something else, have you ever seen a voltage regulator look like this?

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[Davidgsx]

This continuity issue is really weird, sometimes I have a closed circuit with no key at all , I'm staring to thing mpem is fried


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[68ragtop]

strange that it stays closed with the key off. But, the Dess does need to read the key at the same time, so it still could be the post. but when you had no continuity, I thought it was the reed side of it. If you take a normal working lanyard & post & put a latex glove between the post & key, it will click the reed switch but won't power up the mpem. I really don't know of a way to test that part of it though. do you have any other keys you can try? granted they won't start it, but even a wrong key will power them up. key looks to have its connectors inside?

 

[68ragtop]

is the circuit board bare on the back side? should have an epoxy resin over in. was it unplugged?

 

[Davidgsx]

I have another key, nothing happens with it. The part that bothers me is that nothing happens even when I jump it, did you see picture of regulator?


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[68ragtop]

well, thats what I mean. if you jump a the reed on a prefect working ski, but with no key on the post, nothing will happen. when the reed closes it needs to see the key at the same time. if its not reading the key & you short the black wires, you won't get anything either. Not entirely sure why this is, something by design tho.

So I am not 100% sold on your post being ok just yet.
But, I am not a fan of just throwing parts at problems either to see if they go away.
I'll look in the book to see if there's a testing procedure for the other side of it, but I don't recall ever seeing anything.

 

[Davidgsx]

Oh, so even jumping the black and bl/yel won't give me anything if the white is not functioning??


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[Davidgsx]

Don't know about the backside but the resin is all peeling off


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[Davidgsx]

Should I pull the switch from my 96 gsx to test???


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[68ragtop]

heck ya if its handy.

Didn't realize you had another ski there. great idea.

I also robbed this info from another thread. I can't validate its accuracy, but its all I can find so far....

Quote:

Safety lanyard removed;
connect the test probes to switch Black and Black/Yellow wires. It’s an open circuit, there should be no continuity.
Connect one test probe to the White/Gray wire and the other test probe to the switch terminal. Measure resistance, it should be “0” ohm. Connect one test probe to the Black wire and the other test probe to the switch ring. Measure resistance, it must be close to “0” ohm.
Safety lanyard on switch; connect the probes to switch Black and Black /Yellow wires. Measure resistance, it must be “0” ohm.

 

[Davidgsx]

Ok, I'll go butcher the good ski then!!!! I'll get back to you ASAP! I'm going to need a bill from you soon!!


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[Davidgsx]

Shoot, gsx has a different connector, flat, xp is a square. I'll try the resistance you posted


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[Davidgsx]

Ok so the xp passed every test except the last one.
I then performed the exact test the same way and same order on the working gsx and it passed all. First thing is to order a switch.


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[68ragtop]

Sounds like reassuring news!

 

[Davidgsx]

Right???? You have been sooooooo much help, thank you. I'll order switch tonight. I'll let you know how it goes


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[Davidgsx]

WOOHOO!!!' Special thanks to 68ragtop for all his awesome help and ultimately sending me the check list that found the problem, so this ski I traded for that was supposed to have a "locked up" motor at this point just needed a new key post. Everything comes to life now and motor turns over, I still need a to do a compression check and fix the oil leak from the tank but I'm very happy at this point!!
Still no beeps but I checked it with a multi meter and it's just the beeper, anyone know the radio shack part number for that?


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[Mickirig1]

It's 12 volt popwered a 65 - 85 DB beeper. Should be on the shelf at Radio Shack.

 

[Waterluvr]

The part # is 273-0068, as per the instructions install a jumper across the pulse and tone terminals on the two + legs to get the full DB's. I just finished putting one in, they work great!

They are in the grey divider drawers at RS, here's a pic of the packaging part number is on the top right:

 

[Davidgsx]

Awesome thanks


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[Waterluvr]

I've had better luck with the radio shack buzzer's giving the go ahead two tone beeps or warning's on less than ideal system voltages (sub 12.5 vdc) than the Floyd Bell OEM buzzer's do, it's a great product. They are a direct drop in replacement for the holes in boat dash's and you only have to remove a little bit of foam on the ski's to get them in.