I am new to the PWC world and I just got a 1995 Seadoo GTS for a first ski. I went out to the lake and would ride it for about 20 minutes and everything would be fine but then all of the sudden it would die and not crank back on. The ski was sitting in my friends yard for about a year and a half untouched so I dumped the gas and changed the plugs and battery but did not change the oil yet. The four hoses on top of the gas tank might not be on right but i cant be too sure, I don't know which hose goes on which connection. Could anyone please give me some advice on what I should do please? Change hoses? Change oil? Rebuild carb? Any help would be awesome and well appreciated. Thanks.
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Motor Kills?
- Thread starter chase152
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Hi,
If you still have the grey tempo fuel lines I would start there. You will need to replace the lines, with black automotive fuel hose, clean or replace the fuel filter, fuel selector valve, and carb. filters, and most likely rebuild the carbs. Rather than reinvent the wheel here is a link to and excellent thread about the subject.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...ing&highlight=replacing+grey+tempo+fuel+lines
Lou
If you still have the grey tempo fuel lines I would start there. You will need to replace the lines, with black automotive fuel hose, clean or replace the fuel filter, fuel selector valve, and carb. filters, and most likely rebuild the carbs. Rather than reinvent the wheel here is a link to and excellent thread about the subject.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...ing&highlight=replacing+grey+tempo+fuel+lines
Lou
If it starts fine then once warm wont start, its usually a leaky needle and seat in the carb.
So follow what Lou said and make sure to replace the needle and seat too.
So follow what Lou said and make sure to replace the needle and seat too.
Watson91
New Member
I would go with Minnetonka and say your problem lies in the carb. If you do still have grey fuel lines while you have everything apart for the carb you might as well change them out and it probably wouldn't hurt to change your oil-injection line and in-line filter.
As far as fuel line goes I can't be positive but my '95 GTX used probably a little over or around 20' of 1/4" fuel line. (Automotive line can be used, but just be aware it's not USCG certified if you ride somewhere that may matter).
Here is a shifty drawing I made to keep everything in line as I went. Arrows represent flow direction.
As far as clamps goes, you can use the clamps, but I wouldn't try unless you have the tool for them. They can be easily over-tightened. Either get some screw metal clamps (and be extremely careful!) or get some nice industrial grade zip ties with metal locking mechanisms.
As far as oil injection goes I picked up a WSM in-line 2-stroke filter. And some Tygon 3/16" line, 5/32" seems to be in the same ballpark also. I ordered 2' probably a little long, but rather have extra. You can pick the filter and oil-line up on ebay for cheap. If you decide to use another brand for oil-line just make sure it can take oil specifically. Many tubing can't withstand oil and will deteriorate over time.
As far as fuel line goes I can't be positive but my '95 GTX used probably a little over or around 20' of 1/4" fuel line. (Automotive line can be used, but just be aware it's not USCG certified if you ride somewhere that may matter).
Here is a shifty drawing I made to keep everything in line as I went. Arrows represent flow direction.
As far as clamps goes, you can use the clamps, but I wouldn't try unless you have the tool for them. They can be easily over-tightened. Either get some screw metal clamps (and be extremely careful!) or get some nice industrial grade zip ties with metal locking mechanisms.
As far as oil injection goes I picked up a WSM in-line 2-stroke filter. And some Tygon 3/16" line, 5/32" seems to be in the same ballpark also. I ordered 2' probably a little long, but rather have extra. You can pick the filter and oil-line up on ebay for cheap. If you decide to use another brand for oil-line just make sure it can take oil specifically. Many tubing can't withstand oil and will deteriorate over time.
Take the whole manifold off using the 13mm bolts. The bottom one towards the mag is super sucky, so do that first. Get it loose, then use your fingers.
I am certainly no expert on rebuilding carbs., in fact next time mine need rebuilding I'm going to let someone else do them. Last time I did mine all I had to do was clean the carb filters, and clean the carbs., everything else was O.K.
You might get lucky, do you know how many hours on your ski?
I think one of the guys on this thread (SEE ABOVE), will rebuild your carb. at a reasonable fee.
Lou
You might get lucky, do you know how many hours on your ski?
I think one of the guys on this thread (SEE ABOVE), will rebuild your carb. at a reasonable fee.
Lou
Thanks guys for all of y'all's help i just got some new oil and i am going to replace it and re-run all of my gas and oil lines with new hoses and clean out my carb and hope for the best. i plan on using fuel line for everything (including the vac hoses) if that sounds like something ok to do or should i just buy some vac hoses?
Yup I could rebuild it. Yeah the vent line does not need to be touched, but the return line does.
Thanks sorry for all the questions as I am new at all of this. So 22 feet of fuel line, what about oil injection, fuel injection, and oil lines. should i change all of that while I am at it or just leave it as it is. If so how much of each should I get. Thanks for all of yalls help through this I know I have had a lot of questions.
22 feet of regular fuel line and you only need about 2' of the 5/32 oil inj line.
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