Moisture on tip of plugs

[San Diego Mike]

I am getting moisture on tip of spark plugs it happened after I had the tuned pipe off I think on

2000 GTX or ?

sorry for not enough info. OK here is what happened. I use my ski as a tow boat at the drag boat races. A top fuel hydro made his pass which means I have to quickly run out and tow him off the course Ihad noticed that the ski was smoking more than usual on the way to get him the ski died down slowly and stalled I started it back up and had to feather the throttle would not get back on plain. Hooked on to pull boat and was just barely able to get back. Now I am broke down with the plugs fouled. Since I needed to finish the day I tried to clean the plugs then I found some that were used since I was not able to get new ones I messed with it a little couldn't get it to run right so I brought it home. Pulled fuel tank oil tank and flushed and cleaned. I noticed that the cable on the oil pump had came off and the pump was wide open so I pulled pump off and inspected bench tested every thing checked out so I reinstalled fixed the cable and readjusted and sync in with marks and idle and carbs as per factory specs. To get to the pump of coarse I had to remove tuned pipe. Got new gaskets and put everything back together and new plugs. Hooked up water and fired right up. Tooked it down to test in the water. Ran it around but didn't run Right like it is supposed to. So I thought the rave valves were sticking. pulled them out and cleaned. But now it sill fouls plugs does not smoke but seems to have moisture and or excess oil and water on plugs I also have water coming from somewhere in the engine compartment.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Should probably put the pipe back on before your next ride.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

I am getting moisture on tip of spark plugs it happened after I had the tuned pipe off I think on 2000 GTX or ?

Yeah, I think a bit more info on what happened would be helpful.

 

[San Diego Mike]

I edited my post with more info but nobody replied

 

[Seadoobuddy]

I'm no expert on your problem....... but when you edit it doesn't show up as a "new post" so others won't notice it.....just wait a bit as these 2 new post will grab some attention.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yeah, I missed your update too.

So it sounds like you may have a water leak somewhere, you think maybe water from your tuned pipe is flowing back into your cylinders and wetting the spark plugs, fouling them. Not sure if it's excess oil or water causing the problem though. And there's a new water leak in the bilge, not sure from where the water is coming.

It will make a huge difference if the plugs are oil fouling or water fouling, assuming water fouling the tuned pipe gasket could be leaking.

Concerning the tuned pipe, it's important to follow the shop manual procedure for installing it, new gasket and even new stainless bolts/hardware with the correct type of lok-tite are necessary, torque to spec, too much torque can warp the flanges. Cleaning the flange surfaces is important as well.

Perhaps your water leak into the bilge could be from a leak at this location? If there's an exhaust leak, your bilge could fill with carbon monoxide, and the engine won't run well.

Try to locate the water leak, there could be a direct relationship?

I dunno, it sounds like the tuned pipe gasket is leaking now but the original problem was plug fouling due to excessive 2-stroke oil? I've never had a 2-stroke engine fail from too much oil, so that's a nice problem to have amongst all the problems that could occur.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Its really confusing, but I think you said you took the pipe off and back on.

Im sure that is your issue. If its a 2000 and maybe a 01, it has a paper gasket versus the Oring.

Both surfaces need to be shiney clean, and the gasket needs some tack. I used to use copper RTV in a tube, I have started using the copper stuff in the spray can. 3-4 light coats and its ready to install.

Now...the million dollar question and prob the answer to the problem is...did you make a wrench to tighten the 15mm nut on the underside of the pipe?? I have found that almost all the machines I have parted out, that nut is never tight. SBT sells a wrench, but it blows. Its soft crappy chinese steel. I have found buying a obstruction wrench set and modifying it is the way to go.

The other end of the pipe is no easy task either; its tough to get both halves to mate up correctly. My trick is to make a mark BEFORE it ever comes apart on the piece of tubing covering the threads on the pipe clamp. Then when I put it back together I make sure there is the same amount of threads with the tube. If it doesnt properly go together it wont have enough threads in the tube to line up with the mark...and it will leak exhaust gases in the hull causing it to run crappy.