Low RPM Starboard... SC, Throttle...?

[beezer]

Hi,

I just bought '05 Speedster 200 with the 370hp SC engines. I've been reading my butt off trying to learn everything I can about these bad boys, and the ceramic washer thing has we quite worried.

Anyways, I am only pulling 6,500 rpm off the starboard engine (according to tach, but who knows how accurate it is), and 7,200 on port as WOT. It seems like it wants to push right (have to hold steering straight with a fair amount of grip or wheel will pull to the right).

I did notice when working on something the starboard throttle cable has been adjusted or worked itself loose, because the locktite bead is broken (port cable is intact). I'm hoping this is the case, and not a SC problem. But when looking at it, it seems the throttle valve is in the position on each side when levers are WOT. I did not see any markers that should be aligned though?

I wanted to see if anyone could enlighten me on a couple things.

First, what washers (link?) are the ones I need to buy for my 185hp SC/a side motors?

Second, I have worked on performance engines for ATVs for quite a while as a hobby (rebuilts, porting, polishing, milling heads, etc), but I adminitantly have no experience working with any type of blowers, in any capacity. Is this a job that is better left to those with direct experience, or is it a pretty simple procedure for those machanically inclined with a equipped garage? If the latter, can anyone recommend a good AZ based mechanic (I saw they can be shipped out, but I have a couple things I want looked at/worked on as well).

I heard the way to check if your SC was shot was to disconnect the intake and see if you could spin the SC impeller by hand. If so, it's done. Is this correct? And, if it is shot, am I risking serious problems while using the boat if the SC isn't spooling up until my parts arrive?

Thanks, and awesome forum!
Beez

 

[beezer]

Took the intake off the SC and the impeller does not spin. It has just a tad, maybe a almost millimeter of slop when I tried to spin it either way, just enough to make a little clicking. I suppose this is normal.

So, anyone know how to properly adjust the throttle cable. Usually the body has a notch or something to line up against for full throttle, so the two cables can be sync'd but I don't see anything like it. Or, is it more or a trial and error things once it is in the water?

I'm also starting to wonder if I don't have a fuel or air delivery issue? Hrmm, so much to troubleshoot.

Thanks!

 

[seadoosnipe]

Oils......

Beezer, are you using the mineral oil? After a lot of research on these superchargers and some of them with the problems they've had, it seems that even Seadoo is backing the use of the AMSOIL brand of mineral oil for these chargers. It seems to provide the needed "extra" protection to the thrust washers (ceramic).
So, look into that.
The throttle body is suppose to be adjusted closed, making sure the plates sit on the bottom and then, push it WOT and see that the throttle plates are standing at even 90 degrees from closed.:cheers:

 

[beezer]

Thanks for the reply. I will check that way.

 

[beezer]

BTW, do you happen to know the specific name of the Amsoil oil, or a part number?

Thanks!

 

[beezer]

I went out today with my GPS. I managed a meager 50mph top speed (2 people totaling 320 pounds, maybe 100 pounds total gear/supplies on board, 1/2 tank when tested). This seems low because the manufacture claims over 55 (and manf. numbers are always understated in my experience to ensure ALL the products will do a minimum of the stated claims), and others have said they have had GPS verified 60 - 65mph stock. The owner claimed he got 70mph with one person in the very same boat the first season (likely exaggeration, but you can't confuse 50mph with 70mph on water). The boat only had 25 hours on it (now 30), and you can tell by the looks it was only used a few times. This boat was only used for special local outtings once in a while as they had/have a 40 yacht in Cali for weekend get aways).

I adjusted the cables and still only 6,500 rpm on starboard at WOT, about 7,100 RPM on port. When it cavitates (end of a 360 if I don't pull the throttle back just at the right time), it gets much higher on both.

So, I'm at a loss as to what to do in terms of troubleshooting it. I figure there could be up to a dozen or more different things to go through. Anyone have any ideas on the most obvious/easy things to inspect to cross off the list first? Does the service manual include troubleshooting procedures and such?

FYI, the boat had been sitting for without use for about 6 months (according to owner, Upon reflection, the gas could be older as he used it about once every 3 months on average, argg). I didn't drain the tank, figuring I could dilute it, but didn't realize there was more old (doesn't smell like stale/bad gas though) than I had thought based on the gauge until the gas pump told me I was full. I now had 40 gallons of fuel (25 of it old), I had no idea how to safely and responsibly dispose of, so just decided to burn it. I have since topped it off with another 20 since then with no performance change. My cals suggest I would have a max of 30% "old gas" content, and this time out. Now I am thinking about siphoning out the bottom 5 gallons in case there was any separation.

 

[kustomkarl]

Usually the gas won't separate. It will mix together. You could siphon the gas out and use it in you car or lawn mower, after looking at it's contents in different container. Drain it out and let it settle, you might see sediment in the bottom and use the good fuel above any sediment or water. It would be ok to use in a 6 or 8 cylinder vehicle rather than use it in the Jet boat.
For the performance I would check out the wear ring ans see if the space around the wear ring on the impellers wide. If the wear ring has lots of gouges it might need replacing too. If the engines cavitate and rev up and you go no ware it could be that the wear ring is worn out, in either or both jet pumps. The manuals in Premium Member section are a must have if your going to do your own repairs.They have all the procedures to remove and repair your seadoo. You can read the manual on line as a pdf file or print it off and use what you need for your personal and privet use. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link t the top for more details. If you still need more info or suggestions on what direction to go, give us a shout and we'll be happy to help you out to get you doo running in top form.

Karl

 

[beezer]

Thanks for the tips. Someone I talked to is pretty certain the friction washers are slipping on the SC because the same thing happened to him. I will check the fuel. The only time I have cavitation was when I sucked some weeds in one pump, and the other times it does it is when I pull a 360 and don't pull back the throttle soon enough and it sucks in the "bubbly water" that was created from the pump.

I will signup for those manuals asap.

 

[kustomkarl]

The "bubbly"water will also cause then engine to cavitate as it can't get as much water as it needs to run efficient.

Karl