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Looking at a 96 XP with re-built motor...

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Parrothead757

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Hey everyone!! I'm new to the forum, and hopefully going to be a new Sea-Doo owner by this time tomorrow!!

I rather impulsively decided two days ago that i am finally gonna get a pwc. I've wanted one my whole life, and decided i've finally earned it!! I looked at one today, and i'm going tomorrow to look at a 96 XP. I talked to the owner briefly, and all seems in check, given my brief knowledge of these.

My only two concerns are....

1) He's the third owner, and he claims the last owner rebuilt the motor before he sold it to him. Current owner said he didn't know the reason for the rebuild, but he used it all last summer with zero issues. Should the fact that it has been rebuilt concern me, or should this be an added bonus? (i believe he said the old owner had a shop do the rebuild)


2) The current owner also claims that the previous owner did away with the seperate oil tank, so you have to mix the oil and fuel now and put it all in the fuel tank. He says this was done so you don't have to worry about not checking your oil, and having it run dry on you. Makes good sense to me. But i don't know what ratio to mix oil/gas. He said he thinks he ran 4oz. of oil for every 10 gallons of 87. Should i be concerned about this?? Or is this a common mod?

Thanks ahead of time for your input!! I'll try to use the search function as much as possible. I'm on other forums for car related stuff, and i know no one likes a noob that doesn't search before asking questions!! :)

--Addam
 
Addam, welcome to the seadoo forum. Check the nada web site for the book price... www.nada.com click on boats. As far as the line about the oil injector going dry...It would take a long time to use that much injector oil, with noticing it. Add gas check the oil, simple The premix ratio is 40:1 if you use premix, you will use lots of oil. If you use the injector, it will use very little in comparrison. The injector from seadoo is a variable rate injector. It uses oil at a different ratio based on engine rpm, so it doesn't use a lot of oil. That xp should be using Synthetic oil. Here is the scoop on oil. Be sure the previous owner used the correct oil so it doesn't cause problems.
Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.

Never use fuel containing more than 10 % alcohol,( Methanol or Ethanol) as severe damage will occur. The minimum of 87 octane is recommended for most engines.

Karl
 
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Addam, welcome to the seadoo forum. Check the nada web site for the book price... www.nada.com click on boats. As far as the line about the oil injector going dry...It would take a long time to use that much injector oil, with noticing it. Add gas check the oil, simple The premix ratio is 40:1 if you use premix, you will use lots of oil. If you use the injector, it will use very little in comparrison. The injector from seadoo is a variable rate injector. It uses oil at a different ratio based on engine rpm, so it doesn't use a lot of oil. That xp should be using Synthetic oil. Here is the scoop on oil. Be sure the previous owner used the correct oil so it doesn't cause problems.
Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.

Never use fuel containing more than 10 % alcohol,( Methanol or Ethanol) as severe damage will occur. The minimum of 87 octane is recommended for most engines.

Karl


Thanks!!

I knwo this is dumb, but can you clear up the 40:1 ratio a lil better for me. I.E. what type of measurements are we talking?

I'm under the impression that the whole tank/oil injection system has been removed. I haven't actually seen it yet though. If this is the case, am i safe to run by mixing? (eventhough i realize it's not very cost effective)

What is your thoughts on the rebuilt motor??


BTW the seller wants $2000 for the ski, trailer, two man tube with tow rope, and two pfds!! Seems like a pretty good deal. We'll see once i go actually look at it. NADA is $1790 for just the ski for average retail.
 
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That depends on what was rebuilt. Some people replace the rings and hone the cylinders and call it a rebuilt...some replace the total bottom end and top end...it depends on what was rebuilt. To be sure it is in good shape do a compression test. The cylinders should be ideally 150 psi per cylinder.
If the injector tank was removed,that is a bad thing. The xp has a 787 engine I believe so it has a Rotary Valve Gear shaft in the cases. It needs the oil from the injector tank to lube the gear shaft. The tank needs to be there to add the sump to the shaft even if it has no oil injector system. Check it yourself. There should be a 3/8" hose going to the cases under the carbs that leads back to the injector tank. It must have injector oil to work. If not the engine will self destruct. I'm sure it is still there, but check. Ask for all and any records that the owner might have to prove the rebuild. This way your sure and not guessing on what was done.

Good luck on the buy
Karl
 
That depends on what was rebuilt. Some people replace the rings and hone the cylinders and call it a rebuilt...some replace the total bottom end and top end...it depends on what was rebuilt. To be sure it is in good shape do a compression test. The cylinders should be ideally 150 psi per cylinder.
If the injector tank was removed,that is a bad thing. The xp has a 787 engine I believe so it has a Rotary Valve Gear shaft in the cases. It needs the oil from the injector tank to lube the gear shaft. The tank needs to be there to add the sump to the shaft even if it has no oil injector system. Check it yourself. There should be a 3/8" hose going to the cases under the carbs that leads back to the injector tank. It must have injector oil to work. If not the engine will self destruct. I'm sure it is still there, but check. Ask for all and any records that the owner might have to prove the rebuild. This way your sure and not guessing on what was done.

Good luck on the buy
Karl

Based on what you are saying, the tank probably still is there, otherwise i'm sure the motor would of self-destructed last year when he was using it all summer. I'll look where you suggested though just to make sure.

Thanks!
 
I didn't mean to scare you, that is a decent pwc. I just hate to see anybody get bulldozed over. It is better to check and be sure than get stuck with a boat anchor. I'm sure if it is running, all is good with it. Make sure it is clean and crisp on the test drive. From the bottom at idle to full speed, no hesitations or bogging down.
The price seems good too.
Karl
 
Most all long time seadoo racers remove the tank and join the two hoses together from what I have read. before you buy take it to the water and make sure it performs as it should, as it can have issues as jetpump or carb problems that do not show up untill you put them in the water and try them out good luck Robin :cheers:
 
I didn't mean to scare you, that is a decent pwc. I just hate to see anybody get bulldozed over. It is better to check and be sure than get stuck with a boat anchor. I'm sure if it is running, all is good with it. Make sure it is clean and crisp on the test drive. From the bottom at idle to full speed, no hesitations or bogging down.
The price seems good too.
Karl

It's all good!! I appreciate your experience!

I did the math and (if i did it right) 40:1 comes out to 3.2 OZ. of oil for every gallon. Which if you add it up does seem like quite a bit of oil compared to what i'm reading here about how much the standard oil injection uses. Is there really any other benefit to doing it this way, other then not having to worry about your oil tank running dry?? Cause if not, i may switch it back. I'm very through with maintnence, and i can't imagine myself missing something as critical as checking my oil level before each trip out.

BTW i'll probably be buying this without geting a test drive. :(
I read the list of things to look for here on the forum. Is there anything else to pay particularly close attention to since i wont be taking it for a drive?
 
The real test is a drive...it tells so much. I wouldn't even think of buying without a test drive. You need to have it under load and in the water to really determine if it is a good seadoo or just a paperweight. All seadoo's run great ...till it's in the water ...Trust me you are really taking a chance not test driving it!

As far as the injector oil, I have a 1997 Challenger and it holds almost 2 gallons of injector oil. If I used it everyday, I would fill the tank about 2 times a year! With premix...everytime you fill it it needs oil to mix...almost 10 times more. The variable rate injector is a great system. When you buy the xp, get a new oil pump and we'll tell you how to get it hooked up and working. You need to bleed the lines and purge the system...not a big deal but you will know the pump won't fail, if it is new.

Karl
 
The real test is a drive...it tells so much. I wouldn't even think of buying without a test drive. You need to have it under load and in the water to really determine if it is a good seadoo or just a paperweight. All seadoo's run great ...till it's in the water ...Trust me you are really taking a chance not test driving it!

As far as the injector oil, I have a 1997 Challenger and it holds almost 2 gallons of injector oil. If I used it everyday, I would fill the tank about 2 times a year! With premix...everytime you fill it it needs oil to mix...almost 10 times more. The variable rate injector is a great system. When you buy the xp, get a new oil pump and we'll tell you how to get it hooked up and working. You need to bleed the lines and purge the system...not a big deal but you will know the pump won't fail, if it is new.

Karl

Great. Thanks!! Just called the guy, and he said no prob with a test drive!

How much should a pump run me??

Sorry for all the questions.
 
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Seadoo's don't have a "air cleaner" as such. They all have a spark arrestor to keep backfire ignition out of the engine compartment. If you remove the black cover over the carbs,(slide the clips to the outside, it is tricky the first time) you will see a screen mesh filter, called a "spark arrestor"
Use carb cleaner to clean all the black crap out of it and let it air dry or use a air gun from a compressor to dry it. re-install it and your done. There is no dirt, or dust over water...to need an air cleaner.

Karl
 
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