• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Long time mechanic - First time working on a boat, what should I worry about???

Status
Not open for further replies.

JohnZ

New Member
I just got a 96 Speedster, the hull and body are in great shape, but the previous owner had said that there was engine problems. He had said the motor had no spark and when I went to look at it in the marina they said the engine was locked up (actually had the plugs out and a said a mechanic looked at it), I figured if I have to tear it all apart and fix it, I can, so I bought it. In my driveway I hit the starter and it did sound locked up but taking a closer look I noticed that it did bump over a bit - put it on the charger, and tried it agian and it spun good - no start though. After a few searches on here I figured it out and got it running with really doing nothing.

Heres my questions before I get stranded out in the water! Although it is running, has anyone heard of this, or should I do maintenance on something OR is there something I should keep an eye on? There are 2 engines so at least I have a backup, I'm just in a little shock because the boat was discounted to a really low price because of the motor.
 
John, you a long lost brother? :lols:

I'm sure Dr. Honda will chime in here soon with similar information (definitely read his posts for similar threads), but the first issue with all of the 2-strokes to deal with is the oiling system. When the oil system goes bad, and it certainly will, the engine dies. There are two theories on how to maintain the system.

1) Repair/Replace with new
2) Delete

I personally tend to delete and go with premix. Others will say that if you keep the oil system taken care of, that is the way to go. You'll have to decide for yourself (DEFINITELY do a search on the subject..."oil delete" should pull up enough topics), but it is one of the top things to look at now that you are running.

Glad to hear you got a wonderful deal for yourself. Too bad for the previous owner that he wasn't on SDF!!!
 
great start! Is there a sign when the oil system goes or is it just when the motor stops turning ( i still see smoke, so it must be working now, right?)? Honestly I felt I was the dummy when buying this thing - they had short answers, and breifly answered my questions, I really think a bad mechanic had lead them to believe the boat was a total loss....
 
If it were my boat?

I'd totally rebuild all the carbs, check the entire fuel system and check all the oil lines, and replace the small oil lines coming off the oil pump, and fully checkout the jet pumps. People don't do maintenance on these boats or they sit for a long time, then the carbs/fuel sysem gets plugged up which causes the engine to burn up(lean seizure), then they blame the oil injection system.. :)

Also, do a compression test so you know how good/bad the engines are..
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If it were my boat?

I'd totally rebuild all the carbs, check the entire fuel system and check all the oil lines, and replace the small oil lines coming off the oil pump, and fully checkout the jet pumps. People don't do maintenance on these boats or they sit for a long time, then the carbs/fuel sysem gets plugged up which causes the engine to burn up(lean seizure), then they blame the oil injection system.. :)

Also, do a compression test so you know how good/bad the engines are..

X2 on that.
 
if you are worried about being stranded get SeaTow for $125 bucks for the year.
Otherwise it will be an expensive day on the water......

^^x3...You should go over entire engine checking every wire and hose just to be certain.
 
Thanks, good info on the carbs, I'm heading out now to tear them apart... That SeaTow seems like a good idea but the pricing is more like $180 a year.
 
Thanks, good info on the carbs, I'm heading out now to tear them apart... That SeaTow seems like a good idea but the pricing is more like $180 a year.

wow. i remember paying 125 last yr.
just checked site and its 165...
 
IDK where $180 came from??? but I guess it's a little cheaper...

Good call on the carbs - the needle is all gummed up, as well as a bunch of garbage all over the internals - I found a guy selling a dual carb kit for around $100, is that the norm? Kinda odd looking for something on eBay and having 0 hits....

Also, what about the air filter? Just blow it out, or would you replace? I mean it does't look like it filters much out, looks to be just a bunch of screens.
 
IDK where $180 came from??? but I guess it's a little cheaper...

Good call on the carbs - the needle is all gummed up, as well as a bunch of garbage all over the internals - I found a guy selling a dual carb kit for around $100, is that the norm? Kinda odd looking for something on eBay and having 0 hits....

Also, what about the air filter? Just blow it out, or would you replace? I mean it does't look like it filters much out, looks to be just a bunch of screens.

its not really a air filter as spark arrestor iirc .
you should be able to clean it with simple green or similar product and let dry....
 
well the carbs are in the process of going back together - damn machine screws stripped out by where the fuel filter is.... also for anyone out there looking at the kits, they are a little over-kill, I have yet to piece together a set myself but the kit I bought included every gasket for both the main OR secondary carb (a universal kit that includes every possible gasket needed - quite a few extra pieces) so I would assume just buying each piece yourself would probably be cheaper.

IDK if this is common but the previous owner put some really slimy lube on EVERYTHING..... made working on anything a mess, I understand his stragey but wouldn't just WD-40 do the same?

Lastly, all this work I'm doing on it, and I still wonder - how many miles can you get on a full tank (normal cruising)? I've been looking at Google Earth and it will take my boat 5 miles to get to the gulf (clearwater beach :cheers: ) from the closest dock, just kinda wondering if I need to find a closer dock?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
well the carbs are in the process of going back together - damn machine screws stripped out by where the fuel filter is.... also for anyone out there looking at the kits, they are a little over-kill, I have yet to piece together a set myself but the kit I bought included every gasket for both the main OR secondary carb (a universal kit that includes every possible gasket needed - quite a few extra pieces) so I would assume just buying each piece yourself would probably be cheaper.

IDK if this is common but the previous owner put some really slimy lube on EVERYTHING..... made working on anything a mess, I understand his stragey but wouldn't just WD-40 do the same?

Lastly, all this work I'm doing on it, and I still wonder - how many miles can you get on a full tank (normal cruising)? I've been looking at Google Earth and it will take my boat 5 miles to get to the gulf (clearwater beach :cheers: ) from the closest dock, just kinda wondering if I need to find a closer dock?

It's funny you mention the carb rebuild kit. I thought the same thing a year ago.
I'll find the thread where someone posts all it's uses wd40. Im not sure if CRC is similar product. In short I would say yes. I use it.
Fuel range varies but fill it up draw a line on it then go out. Check 3 hrs later draw another line and check in another hour. Two strokes are not known for fuel economy...
You have sea tow if you run out though. :cool:
Its good to have a qt of oil on the boat.

Edit

For those of you who like to read.....


I had a neighbor (not my real neighbor) who bought a new pickup. I got up very early one Sunday morning and saw that someone had spray painted red all around the sides of this beige truck (for some unknown reason). I went over, woke him up, and told him the bad news. He was very upset and was trying to figure out what to do....probably nothing until Monday morning, since nothing was open. Another neighbor came out and told him to get his WD-40 and clean it off. It removed the unwanted paint beautifully and did not harm his paint job that was on the truck. I'm impressed! WD-40 who knew? 'Water Displacement #40'. The product began from a search for a rust preventative solvent and degreaser to protect missile parts. WD-40 was created in 1953 by three technicians at the San Diego Rocket Chemical Company. Its name comes from the project that was to find a 'water displacement' compound. They were successful with the fortieth formulation, thus WD-40. The Convair Company bought it in bulk to protect their atlas missile parts. Ken East (one of the original founders) says there is nothing in WD-40 that would hurt you. When you read the 'shower door' part, try it. It's the first thing that has ever cleaned that spotty shower door. If yours is plastic, it works just as well as glass. It's a miracle! Then try it on your stove top. It's now shinier than it's ever been. You'll be amazed.


WD-40 Uses:

1. Protects silver from tarnishing.

2. Removes road tar and grime from cars.

3. Cleans and lubricates guitar strings.

4. Gives floors that 'just-waxed' sheen without making them slippery.

5. Keeps flies off cows. (I love this one!)

6. Restores and cleans chalkboards.

7. Removes lipstick stains.

8. Loosens stubborn zippers.

9. Untangles jewelry chains.

10. Removes stains from stainless steel sinks.

11. Removes dirt and grime from the barbecue grill.

12. Keeps ceramic/terra cotta garden pots from oxidizing.

13. Removes tomato stains from clothing.

14. Keeps glass shower doors free of water spots.

15. Camouflages scratches in ceramic and marble floors.

16. Keeps scissors working smoothly.

17. Lubricates noisy door hinges on vehicles and doors in homes.

18. It removes black scuff marks from the kitchen floor! Use WD-40 for that nasty tar and scuff marks on flooring. It doesn't seem to harm the finish and you won't have to scrub nearly as hard to get them off. Just remember to open some windows if you have a lot of marks.

19. Bug guts will eat away the finish on your car if not removed quickly! Use WD-40!

20. Gives a children's playground gym slide a shine for a super fast slide.

21. Lubricates gear shift and mower deck lever for ease of handling on riding mowers...

22. Rids kids rocking chairs and swings of squeaky noises.

23. Lubricates tracks in sticking home windows and makes them easier to open.

24. Spraying an umbrella stem makes it easier to open and close.

25. Restores and cleans padded leather dashboards in vehicles, as well as vinyl bumpers.

26. Restores and cleans roof racks on vehicles.

27. Lubricates and stops squeaks in electric fans.

28. Lubricates wheel sprockets on tricycles, wagons, and bicycles for easy handling.

29. Lubricates fan belts on washers and dryers and keeps them running smoothly.

30. Keeps rust from forming on saws and saw blades, and other tools.

31. Removes splattered grease on stove.

32. Keeps bathroom mirror from fogging.

33. Lubricates prosthetic limbs.

34. Keeps pigeons off the balcony (they hate the smell).

35. Removes all traces of duct tape.

36. Folks even spray it on their arms, hands, and knees to relieve arthritis pain.

37. Florida’s favorite use is: 'cleans and removes love bugs from grills and bumpers.'

38. The favorite use in the state of New York , WD-40 protects the Statue of Liberty from the elements.

39. WD-40 attracts fish. Spray a little on live bait or lures and you will be catching the big one in no time. Also, it's a lot cheaper than the chemical attractants that are made for just that purpose. Keep in mind though, using some chemical laced baits or lures for fishing are not allowed in some states.

40. Use it for fire ant bites. It takes the sting away immediately and stops the itch.

41. WD-40 is great for removing crayon from walls. Spray on the mark and wipe with a clean rag.

42. Also, if you've discovered that your teenage daughter has washed and dried a tube of lipstick with a load of laundry, saturate the lipstick spots with WD-40 and rewash. Presto! The lipstick is gone!

43. If you sprayed WD-40 on the distributor cap, it would displace the moisture and allow the car to start.


P.S. The basic ingredient is FISH OIL.


Or the less expensive

The many uses for WD-40 are mostly because of the Stoddard Solvent contained in the formulation.. and you can buy large cans of Stoddard for about 1/200 the price of WD-40.

having said that,

Duct Tape and WD-40 solve 90 per cent of mechanical problems and 50 per cent of marital problems (grin)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
First off, nice tip about the oil. I can't believe there is no air filter element for these motors? Wow.

Well all four carbs are done and went pretty smooth, both engines start up and run perfectly. Just a couple issues for anyone also looking into doing this:
There are 2 screws where the jet is and you need to remove them to access a gasket.... out of the 8 I had only 2 come out clean, the rest got their heads drilled off and replaced (Homedepot carrys them - 4mm X 16mm Steel/Zinc plated Machine screw Flat - Philips), for around a quarter each, it may be nice to have them before-hand.

:willy_nilly: Is there any notice that the oil pump isn't working? Who ever had worked on this boat before had the oil pump lever turned completely around (the pull cable had no effect) as a newb, is this some secret trick...? I put it back to how it was supposed to be but now I am wondering how do I know its working?
 
PO probably was premixing.
There are two sides on wether to or not to premix
Try to see if gas has color to it to determine....
 
Or they didn't know what they were doing, was the spring broke? When the cable pulls the lever it actually reduces the oil being injected, with it disconnect it was probably giving the max oil all the time...
 
Spring wasn't broke, that was my first thought, but then I just tried to turn it manually and it will go all the way around, it was just turned too far. I am thinking one or the other - when you're hooking up the cable, it's in a tight spot, so maybe the mechanic accidentally turned the lever a whole turn and didnt realize it, or turned it like that to give MAX oil all the time, but why hook up the cable? I'm guessing the first.

PO was not premixing - oil tank is 3/4 full, oil lines still going to the engines, and clear fuel, I'm going to just guess theres no way to tell if the oil is flowing? I would prefer to keep everything OEM
 
Look at the 2 small oil lines coming off the pump, not the larger ones...You should be replacing those while you're at it... :)

After you replace them, start the boat at idle and then put the pump on max, it should very very slowly fill the lines may take a few minutes, or you can add some premix to the fuel for the first tank to make sure.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
okay, I am looking through threads now but maybe someone has had a similar problem and is willing to offer me help.

I finally put her in the water and did a test run - ran good at first, seemed to take a LOT of throttle to get the jets to grab (6k RPM) - Is this normal? I was thinking wear rings, they don't look too bad but I really don't know??? Second problem was after a great day of heading out, when I turned around to come home (of course!) the engine with a bad history was acting up - ran okay @ 3k RPM but anything over that it would freak out and bog down to 1k or stall.... I'm thinking heads and pistons???

Could the wear rings cause both problems? The little water outlet pipe on the back for the engine w/ the issue was barely spitting out water, so I am kinda thinking it was over heating. IDK, any ideas?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top