Locked Up 2005 RXT

[Planekiller1]

So I finally fixed my 2005 RXT 215, got it all fixed after all the mounts went bad and I pulled the engine apart to replace them and changed the bearings in the Super Charger, also changed the wear ring, impeller, carbon seal and SS ring, also replaced the drive shaft, I got it all together and then test ran it and not 30 seconds into it running normally maybe it had a little rough idle, I gave it a blip literally a blip of throttle and it stopped abruptly not a put put stop a stop, no noise was present it just locked up, I tried starting it again and it turns a 1/4 and doesn't go anymore, haven't gotten into the engine but any ideas, the spark plugs are okay no damage to seen there, I was looking and thought it might be the valves but then read that it usually makes horrible noises before shutting down, so thats a no, the supercharger is tight so I doubt that is an issue but ill pull it out win a week when I'm back in town. Pulled off all resistance such as plugs and impeller and and it still is locked, oh also the impeller is spinning freely so its not that, the water was turned on after starting and its a 4 dec so its closed loop. So I'm stumped and getting tired of pulling the dang thing apart its been a pain in the arse since i got it. I've gotten to ride it once, its tried to sink 3 times from the mounts being bad and the carbon seal not making a seal, I've chewed up two impeller threads where the cone inserts so I won't be able to run it with the cone.
Any help would be appreciated
-Kurt

 

[Coastiejoe]

Pull the pump to eliminate the impeller/pump bearings. Also, pull the SC as it can seize and seize the engine. After that, then it is time to open the engine

 

[Planekiller1]

Okay thanks, That was what my plan was to pull the Supercharger next, the pump is off so its not that!

 

[Coastiejoe]

Good luck with it, lets hope the SC is the issue...

 

[red2blue]

What's the oil look like?

 

[XP 787]

Did water get into the motor when the mounts went bad?

 

[jhjesse]

Just rebuilt sc and installed. Ran it 30 seconds and it quit. If I were a betting man, my money would be on the sc. ��

 

[Spimothy Leary]

where in FL are you ?

 

[Planekiller1]

In Punta Gorda about an hour north of Fort Myers, I'm in college in Miami so I go across periodically and work on it.
The oil is brand spanking new I just changed it, water did not enter the engine, although some nasty oil stuff was all inside the intake hoses and in the intake when I pulled it off, cleaned all of that though, I pulled the plugs and it still didn't spin so its not that this oilly stuff entered the cylinder and locked it as with the plugs out it would take away the pressure created... The SC is what I'm guessing, I'll pull it maybe this weekend if I go over. I'm working on the GTI mainly though if I do go over as I am getting PO'd with the rxt, also I will check the oil filter as I did pull the stick and it was still amber... but the filter will show if anything is going through that isn't supposed too. Either way thanks for all the feedback.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

< Cape Coral here. I love riding Charotte county, might be there tomorrow to pick up a triton that's for sale. The peace and charlottel harbor are two of my favorite ride spots, we launch from either Laishley or harbor heights.

there is a very skilled tuner about 30 minutes from you in Lehigh, my 4tec skillset is minimum to nothing so he's my go to guy....
Fair labor prices & I use him all the time, actually i'm in "line" to bring two ski's over to him for some work next week, he's backed up with 3 ski's in front of me.
depending on how deep (experience) you've been into these engines, might be worth considering taking it down to him and having him take a peek inside, I think you can cut through a lot of guess work and get it down to brass tacks.

PM me if you want the contact info.
there's another dude up in PC area or NFMyers as well, I forget the name, older fella, but I've been told he knows his stuff just never used him personally but several others have.

 

[Planekiller1]

I'd rather know how to fix it myself and most guys change far too much even the cheap ones are too much to me, so if it is internal ill be pulling the block apart, and learning from it, I am studying mechanical engineering so its good for me to know in the future.

 

[Sea Dood]

Reading your other post, sounds like havent run this ski in a year, you ran it in salt, and you made no mention of fogging to protect the exhaust valves. I will bet you have dropped a valve. A locked up SC from improper rebuild usually wont allow the engine to turn 1/4 turn.

 

[Planekiller1]

it hasn't been ran for longer and the previous owner never did anything to season it, although we got it cheap because the SC was bad and the impeller was busted. So anything that happens is from sitting not being seasoned and flushed every use. Dropping a valve sounds likely, is there anyway to see the valve before I pull it apart, I have a viewing scope so I could take the intake off and have a look, would that tell me... Either way I'm pulling the SC off first and trying that before going further, although it won't be till next weekend, so just trying to find out what the best thing to do as I don't have much time to waste
-Kurt

 

[XP 787]

Post a pic of your spark plugs

 

[Planekiller1]

Spark plugs are fine as stated above, even the spacing is perfect.

 

[Planekiller1]

So thinking about it I'm thinking the timing chain has failed!

 

[XP 787]

You can pull the valve cover to see. A bad tensioner could also be a problem.

 

[Planekiller1]

Either way looks like I'm being forced to pull the motor out, So I'll pull the viewing plate stick a camera in it and have a look before just to confirm, but I think I'm going to find that it is the timing chain as this ski has not been taken care of in the past. I have no clue if it was flushed every time it was used, or if it was winterised, the carbon seal is original when I took it off at the beginning of my rebuild of the whole rear end, so I'm going to pull the engine change the exhaust valves while I'm in there and have a look at all the other parts, it can't be a dropped valve as the spark plugs have no damage. The supercharger is out now and its still locked up so my guess is that the chain is messed up in some way, broken bad tensioner it doesn't matter because if I have to pull the darn thing then I'm replacing it all.

As for buying a used ski you never really know what your going to get, we know the old owner on a really good level but his son was the one using this ski so we truly have no idea how much discipline he had with presentative maintenance, like I said the carbon ring was original from 05 so it was time to pull everything apart.

So far I have gutted the pump bearings ect., replaced impeller/ wear ring, replaced the drive shaft 3 times as it got chewed up from the bad mounts the problem I had with it sinking in my other thread, also I have replaced the wear ring and bellows twice as I was trying to fin out the issue with it not sealing, and changed the oil/coolant.

-Kurt

 

[Sea Dood]

It only takes a few minutes to pull the valve cover on these engines. I would do this and take a look at the cam chain. It also is possible to drop a valve with no spark plug damage, all depends how the valve bounces around before it wedges. A thrown connecting rod will also cause lockup, but usually vents the crankcase with oil all over. Good luck with your adventure!

 

[Planekiller1]

Pulled the engine after looking in the inspection hole, chain looked good, pulled the top cover and chain was amazing so put an inspection tool into the cylinders and walla the valves had dropped in the 3rd cylinder the spark plug has no spacing so it did hit the spark plug after all, the engine is out and pulled the exhaust manifold off and you can see the two broken stems all others look fine but they are getting replaced, So next steps?
*Drain Oil*
1) Pull the PTO
2) Take the chain off (Any advice for this since its locked up?)
3) pull the cam shaft evenly off then the valves should come out right?
4) Replace all exhaust valves
5) Take a look at the piston/cylinder walls for scoring/dents.
6) Replace the chain and guides/tensioner since I'm in here anyway.
7) Put engine back together unless there is anything else I should look at?
8) Replace ground and power leads to the starter (noted by coastiejoe).

Anything else I should do while its out, i cleaned the hull and will be spraying some nice new paint on it!
Thanks for all the help!!!
-Kurt

 

[Planekiller1]

Pics

 

[red2blue]

Spark plugs are fine as stated above, even the spacing is perfect.....Either way...it can't be a dropped valve as the spark plugs have no damage.
-Kurt

Nothing quite like being thorough...huh?

:thumbsup:

 

[Sea Dood]

I should have placed some money when I made my bet, LOL...

 

[Planekiller1]

Yeah, yeah, anything y'all can think of for me to replace while its out?
Its so minor of a spacing movement unless your really looking your not going to see it when y'all said it would rip apart the plugs I thought they would be F***ED not just spacing being off!
-Kurt

 

[Planekiller1]

So pulled the cases apart, opened the top and huge indentions in the piston and the head, looks like it will need to be retooled or replaced, The piston is out and will post some pictures soon.

The timing chain is still on as I had no clue how to get the gear that is retaining it off, so I'll just pull the shaft when I go to put the new piston in and replace the chain and tensioner just so that while it's out everything gets done, had a few filings in the oil screen, nothing abnormal though, how sharp is the top timing gear that connects to the cam supposed to be? as mine seems to be a lot more rounded (teeth) than the lower one connected to the crank. I'll post pictures with that too, might just replace it anyway.

I pulled the piston arm off and to my surprise the joint looks like a crack and not machined is this correct, as I found it very cool that they didn't have to machine it.