So I bought the ski ealier this week I cleaned the carbs put new plugs and fresh gas got it started sounded good on trailer I drove it slow. Feeling better about it I gased it got to middle of lake and died. Didn't want to start it turns over has gas, spark, and compression. I tried starting it later on in day once everything was cool and nothing it sounds like its backfiring through the carb just like a little cough nothing big. Im lost here please help I just want to play with my new toy. thanks guys
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just when i thought i had it figured out
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ocod
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Was it running good before rebuild?
Take them off and try again. Something isn't right.
I'm pretty sure you didn't do a pop off pressure?
Did you fully break down carbs and replaced with OEM rebuild kit? It has a red dot on diaphragm covering needle and seat.
did you buy it from CL for the $600?? If your from Miami
Take them off and try again. Something isn't right.
I'm pretty sure you didn't do a pop off pressure?
Did you fully break down carbs and replaced with OEM rebuild kit? It has a red dot on diaphragm covering needle and seat.
did you buy it from CL for the $600?? If your from Miami
Sounds like leaky needles and seats in the carbs. They will start but once the engine warms up its getting far too much gas.
Also the one way valves in the fuel venting could be clogged. If you repeated the situation, you just open the tank cap and listen for air sucking into the tank.
Also the one way valves in the fuel venting could be clogged. If you repeated the situation, you just open the tank cap and listen for air sucking into the tank.
Worked on it some and still cant get it to start. Changed the fuel filter got rid of gray fuel lines went through the carbs again all looks fine. Im getting sprak from the plugs, gas going in and have compression just wont start. Im at a loss I don"t know what to check for anymore thanks
Ocod: No the one I have doesn't have a rev limiter adjuster and Im in the Westchester area 33165.
Ocod: No the one I have doesn't have a rev limiter adjuster and Im in the Westchester area 33165.
ocod
Well-Known Member
Damm I was just around there.
When you say you went through carb what does that mean.
Did you open it up at all?
Can you confirm the line going to the in nipple of PTO carb, if you blow through it you hear bubbles in the tank?
If you manually choke it since spark arrestor out and see if your hand get wet with fuel?
edit:
Whats your compression at?
Which filter do you change? #15 or it had a inline one?
I forget I made mine a single carb and that year has two.
If fuel is going through line which you can confirm by hearing bubbles in the tank then its the carb.
The fuel selector is notorious for getting clogged and thats why it should be taken apart and cleaned or bypassed.
If fuel is going through it, it should fire....
Try running hose to carb from a premixed 5 gal jug??
Heres a fuel system for reference.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=18&A=27&B=14&Action=O
When you say you went through carb what does that mean.
Did you open it up at all?
Can you confirm the line going to the in nipple of PTO carb, if you blow through it you hear bubbles in the tank?
If you manually choke it since spark arrestor out and see if your hand get wet with fuel?
edit:
Whats your compression at?
Which filter do you change? #15 or it had a inline one?
I forget I made mine a single carb and that year has two.
If fuel is going through line which you can confirm by hearing bubbles in the tank then its the carb.
The fuel selector is notorious for getting clogged and thats why it should be taken apart and cleaned or bypassed.
If fuel is going through it, it should fire....
Try running hose to carb from a premixed 5 gal jug??
Heres a fuel system for reference.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=18&A=27&B=14&Action=O
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The fuel selector has been bypassed and I premix. There is a direct line from the tank to the carb with in line fuel filter and a return line. When I went to start I can see the filter fill with gas. When I manually choke it as you say I don't get my hand wet with fuel but when I take the plugs out it seems they are dripping in fuel. As far as the carbs I took them apart cleaned out the little filters inside, diaphragms looked good no tears they had the red dots so assuming they are oem. Also cleaned out the needles and all little holes. As far as compression the gauge has seen better days so not sure how accurate they are but they both read 120#'s. Thanks and let me know if your ever around the area.
ocod
Well-Known Member
They are on the lower end of 150 but above the 90.
Check the line for flow to be sure. I get my hand soaked when I prime.
Look down the butterfly to see if its dry after you prime and put new dry plugs.
These machines are simple set up. Its Air-->Gas-->Spark
edit: yup extra set of eyes always helps
Check the line for flow to be sure. I get my hand soaked when I prime.
Look down the butterfly to see if its dry after you prime and put new dry plugs.
These machines are simple set up. Its Air-->Gas-->Spark
edit: yup extra set of eyes always helps
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If the plugs are all wet you need to replace the needles and seats.
ocod
Well-Known Member
I know that they cause hard starts after warm but would that cause it not to fire at all??
You need to order those parts separately as they don't come in the kit.
Minn do you the stock specs for OP
edit: theres a fix for leaky N/S you can try. Read where it says won't start when warm
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?40380-Carburetor-Adjustments
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Yup typically its when its warm...but if it was just pouring gas it might have issues.
needles and seats are 2.3 on the 720 models. Most places dont carry it.
needles and seats are 2.3 on the 720 models. Most places dont carry it.
There's no doubt its getting to much gas I just don't understand why it won't start up again. I want to say something with the timing maybe but I really don't understand that rotary system enough to mess with that. Here is what happened again I got it started it sat idol for a few minutes got it on plane ran good for about 3 min long enough to leave me stuck in the middle of lake. Have not gotten it to start again. I am going to rebuild the carbs complete with needles and seats. Also going to do the pop off pressure test. If you guys think of anything else let me know please!!!!!!! Thanks guys
I think i'm more like the 5th or 6th owner but anyway from what I gather original problem was that it would bog out or stall when accelerated and took a while to start when it was cold. The factory choke was previously removed and a primer was never installed so thats on the to do list as well. Currently I have even tried pouring a little gas in the carbs and still can't get it to fire up.
If it is getting TOO much gas it wont even pop...but...
I wouldnt even mess with the carbs...it def sounds like the rotary valve is out of spec. Actually it sounds like the brass gear is wore out, but spun long enough to get you on the lake.
I would pull that first. The tool is about $25. It comes out and can be put back in w/o disassembling the motor...but if the gear is all ground up you will rip a seal in a hurry leaving all the brass shards in there.
I wouldnt even mess with the carbs...it def sounds like the rotary valve is out of spec. Actually it sounds like the brass gear is wore out, but spun long enough to get you on the lake.
I would pull that first. The tool is about $25. It comes out and can be put back in w/o disassembling the motor...but if the gear is all ground up you will rip a seal in a hurry leaving all the brass shards in there.
I took the rotary cover off and visually inspected looked ok. I took the rotary valve out and it hasn't skipped a thread from the looks of it and the gear in there looks good as well it turns with the crank shaft. I didn't have a degree measurement tool I know thats the main reason I took all this apart but wasn't to bad to take it apart so will adjust it when I get tool. I was expecting to see a disaster in there but looked good for the most part. There was one piece on the bottom side that looked diamond shape that was being held in with two small allen's and springs it seemed to be bent out ward almost like a hard gasket material. Not sure what it does but doesn't look right to me. Any ideas!!!!!!!! thanks guys
ocod
Well-Known Member
download and use a mirror. but a plastic wheel would be better
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?12763-degree-wheel-pdf
That would be where the oil pump was.
So I did that and it seems the rotary valve was set to 130deg and should be at 147deg so I changed it. I going to finish putting the carbs on tomorrow. Do you guys think that 17deg was causing it not to fire? Also could that be the cause of low compression readings of 120#. Thanks guys I have had the ski for two weeks and have only ridden it for 20min and 15min of that was getting towed to shore.
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