Just got first PWC - non running 94 SPs in pieces. Wee!

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
I am no stranger to technical work - boats, antique mopeds, cars of all vintages, old outboards. I was feeling brave and pulled home 2 94 SPs with the carbs removed and a box of parts. The story checks out - guy and friends went in on them, run them around, guys buddied let him do all the work and storage, and the guy said heck with it when no one helped him take out the carbs for rebuilds. He sold them to me super cheap, new carb kits included.

So I need some advice - I rebuilt the one carb last night and tested the popoff pressure, and all seems well. I put the jets back the way they were when I started the rebuild. The high speed jet was about 3/4 turn before I rebuilt it (the plastic cover bit was forced past it's stop. Now that I have rebuilt the carbs, should I turn that one in all the way for the factory "0" setting, or start from where it was?

-rj
 
Read the carb rebuild thread at the top of this section to get good insight into the carbs.

As long as you have the stock main jet then set the high speed screw to 0 and set the cap on so you have the 1/4 out ability. The references I have seen show the high speed screw as a "bypass" of the main jet that will only allow extra fuel into the motor. Something I wish the would have built into snowmachine carbs.... Turning the screw out will only richen the top end, all the way in it relies on the main jet only to meter fuel flow at WOT.
 
Hmm. The carb kits are 'winderosa' but seem to have all the specific buts (red dot on diaphraphm, etc). Am I going to regret things shortly?

Oy, these carbs are a pain to get back in. Grey fuel lines are fairly stiff, but I don't see any green goo....why do I have the feeling I'll be changing them out anyway?


-rj
 
Well the Winderosa are junk and one of the worst. Get genuine Mikuni or do it twice and still end up getting Mikuni.

If the fuel lines are hard and especially gray replace them with standard black 1/4” automotive fuel hose.
 
Get original Mikuni rebuild kits. No ifs ands or buts, throw away what you have and pay the extra money for the original Mikuni.
 
Hi , New to this jet ski stuff but bought a 1996 gtx 787 to play with as a project. carbs where off when I bought the ski , Now im getting back to the reassembly stage. I have rebuilt the carbs / cleaned and re kitted no worries as have done many carbs before. But now carbs back on and fuel lines just laying in bilge
as i didn't remove them the lengths of lines seemed logical which went where but not so unless I have missed something ? ? all piped up and cranking but no fuel coming through ,so I removed the to aft hose from `Y` piece and when cranking fuel coughs out of the carb Y piece ??
Any ides what stupid mistake I might have made ? :confused:,
Thanks in advance.
Andy
 
I usually remove the plastic high speed mixture caps, often they just spin on the knurled head anyway and that bugs me not knowing the position. Thankfully, full closed lightly against seat is the normal position. BTW, you'll probably lose some RPM if you leave them open slightly.

Most carb sets have just one fuel pump mounted on one carb that feeds both carbs, then there's a return line from both carbs that Y's together and returns excess fuel through two restrictor orifices back to the fuel tank. Thus, fuel is always being pumped through and returned back to the tank.
 
Last edited:
Hi , New to this jet ski stuff but bought a 1996 gtx 787 to play with as a project. carbs where off when I bought the ski , Now im getting back to the reassembly stage. I have rebuilt the carbs / cleaned and re kitted no worries as have done many carbs before. But now carbs back on and fuel lines just laying in bilge
as i didn't remove them the lengths of lines seemed logical which went where but not so unless I have missed something ? ? all piped up and cranking but no fuel coming through ,so I removed the to aft hose from `Y` piece and when cranking fuel coughs out of the carb Y piece ??
Any ides what stupid mistake I might have made ? :confused:,
Thanks in advance.
Andy

The fuel inlet line is on the bottom of the carb on the mag side close to the engine. The return line is on the rear carb and connects to the "Y" . If that is what you are asking. Make sure you have the pulse line connected. That will operate the fuel pump. Good LuckFuel Inlet.jpgFuel Return Line.jpg
 
Last edited:
I usually remove the plastic high speed mixture caps, often they just spin on the knurled head anyway and that bugs me not knowing the position. Thankfully, full closed lightly against seat is the normal position. BTW, you'll probably lose some RPM if you leave them open slightly.

Most carb sets have just one fuel pump mounted on one carb that feeds both carbs, then there's a return line from both carbs that Y's together and returns excess fuel through two restrictor orifices back to the fuel tank. Thus, fuel is always being pumped through and returned back to the tank.
Thanks for your reply . I have a play with it over the weekend and try and get some fuel through the carbs . PS what is the filter under the front cowling.?
 
Thanks for your reply . I have a play with it over the weekend and try and get some fuel through the carbs . PS what is the filter under the front cowling.?

It's 1 of 3 fuel filters. Tank, inline, and in the carb. Just unscrew and clean that one, you could replace the oring if it looks bad, make sure to get the correct one, it's square edged not rounded.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top