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Jet pump rebuild

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seadoobie

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So I finally have all the parts in to rebuld my jet pumps. (new bearings, seals, impellers, wear rings,ect.) Anyhow so whats the best way to remove, then install the new bearings and seals? I'm kinda limited on what tools I have at my disposal. Taking the old parts out isnt reall my worry, its the installation of the new parts I'm concerned with...I dont want to bend a new bearing or seal this close to having it done. Thx!
 
They need to be pressed in. Since they are roller bearings... you don't want to pound on them... and they don't have a seat. You must press them to depth.
 
Ok then. I'll have to find a shop around here that can do it I guess. Now I have the problem of not having the bearing & seal installation tools required to do it properly. Does anyone rent those that you know of?
 
Another thing I should ask about here is whats the real difference between these 2 types of wear rings? the old ones are the oem style rubber & fiberglass & the new ones I have to install are a white pvc type...anything I should be aware of with this new style wear ring?
 
some auto parts stores will press in and out he bearings for not that much, and they wll rent seal install tools. Well if you have a good boat shop they will do it also.
 
I used a seal/bearing pulled and slid hammer rented from auto parts store to pull old bearings. U can't press them out unless u machine the tool like the shop manual states. The center of the housing is bigger than the bearings and they will get stuck in there trust me it happened to me. I pressed the new ones in with a socket that was the size of the bearings and measured with a micrometer.
 
Yes like hammertime said you can do that. I have done that with many many automotive projects. Just be careful and take your time. I also learned the hard way you can crack a housing that way too. Lol
 
Thx for the advise there guys! I did happen to find a old seadoo shop though, now a honda/yamaha dealer about 100 miles from where I live that can take care of this for me. Good thing is I work down close to that area sometimes & it wont really be out of my way to get there.
 
Best 20 bucks I spent shipping pump to DrHonda.
If it wasnt out of your way and its not more than a shop hour then okay.
You would of spent more in gas and time.
 
Yeah I took those things into consideration. I wouldnt mind sending them out to be worked on but I really dont know anyone here that I could send them too. I havent made it down there to that shop yet so its still a option. The shop said $20-$40 ea. depending on how hard the old bearings & seals are to get out. I'm gonna try get the seals & bearings just behind the seals out tonight to keep the cost down incase I have to go to them.
 
For that much just give it to them to do.
DrHonda will rebuild it. I sent him mine to do bearings and wear ring.
 
Well the pumps are done now...but I cant say it was quick & easy. I took them to a shop to have them done and the shop screwed up one of the bearings on the install. How?..I dunno..but it happened. I went to check how the shaft spun & to see how smooth they were....one of them you damn near had to put a wrench on to get it to move. Anyhow we trouble shot it for about 45 min and decided to just replace it.
We were able to remove the seal & get the bearing out that was tweaked & the shop had to produce another bearing to replace it. The only bearing they had for it was a lil longer than the original but the same i.d. & o.d. , so we popped it in. It works fine now. Funny thing is I didnt figure I would have to drive a long a$$ way to help a shop work on them. It was kinda fun to be back in a shop working on something but I think next time I will definatly mail them to Doc for repair!!
 
Lol yeah I know...I figured it being a old seadoo shop it would have been a snap. They had all the tools & stuff, I'm not reall sure why it happened the way it did,seems to happen to me all the time while trying to get her back on the water. Anyhow while i was there they tried to sell me a 2011 gti limited 155! for $10k +... very nice machine though!
 
cough cough four stoke :svengo:

No broken timing chains for me

inexperience cheap labor who thinks you don't know better. Which you were obviously
Or just a mistake on improper bearing install on their what # jet rebuilds?????...
Really
 
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& the shop had to produce another bearing to replace it. The only bearing they had for it was a lil longer than the original but the same i.d. & o.d. , so we popped it in.

HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA !!!!!!!!!

I wouldn't run it. Most of the bearings that can fit our pumps are NOT rated to 7000 ~ 8000 RPM... and they are NOT stainless steel.

So... if it is not the right bearing... it may come apart when you get up to your max RPM's. OR... if a little water gets into the pump... they will rust.

FYI... most of the roller bearings that can fit are only rated to 4500 RPM's.
 
Very interesting comment by Doc.
Seadoobie, I would listen to him and have the shop remove it and pay you for the new bearing and then send it to Doc.
Unless you know for sure that it's SS and rated for high RPM's
 
Did you keep the new/old bearing??Was a new bearing replaced or one lying around?
You could drive back and get if fixed. Try to get them to get new bearing or you buy a new bearing and have them swap it.
They are a dealer so I hope they know the difference b/w bearing rating or application
Why risk pump for 20 dollar bearing??
 
I guess the best thing to do is fix that bearing & be done with it. Maybe get to do something fun on it next season. So Doc can I send it your way & have you fix it this time?
 
Did you keep the new/old bearing??Was a new bearing replaced or one lying around?
You could drive back and get if fixed. Try to get them to get new bearing or you buy a new bearing and have them swap it.
They are a dealer so I hope they know the difference b/w bearing rating or application
Why risk pump for 20 dollar bearing??

I thought about it. There shop manager was out while this all happened. They did give me a reciept for the new bearing & the labor. I didnt pay for the new bearing though..it was gratis since they botched mine. I can call the shop manager in the morning I guess & see what can be done.
 
Very interesting comment by Doc.
Seadoobie, I would listen to him and have the shop remove it and pay you for the new bearing and then send it to Doc.
Unless you know for sure that it's SS and rated for high RPM's

I'm not sure if it is rated for high rpm or not. I will call thier shop manager in the morning & give him the details. He wasnt there at the time. I think I will just order another & have them cash me out on it so I can get moving on this & get in a water test after its done before winter hits.
 
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I thought about it. There shop manager was out while this all happened. They did give me a reciept for the new bearing & the labor. I didnt pay for the new bearing though..it was gratis since they botched mine. I can call the shop manager in the morning I guess & see what can be done.

Should have part number if OEM :thumbsup:
Then you know its legit
 
OK....

Before we jump to conclusions... and I scare everyone... ask them what the number of the bearing was. THEN... we can look up it's specs. If it's rated for +7000 rpm, and it's stainless (or a nickle alloy) then you should be fine.
 
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