Is this my f1 fuse?
- Thread starter chavist93
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chavist93
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Thats what I was expecting, but this one is totally different. I took a chance and pulled it off. Sure enough it says F1 under it. I cut out the back side and soldered it together and everything works fine now. Here are some pics for future reference.
F1 under the fuse
Other side cut open
Soldered
Plastic welded back together
F1 under the fuse
Other side cut open
Soldered
Plastic welded back together
Good job!
Now you know that fuse did have a purpose initially right?
It would be a good idea to install another fuse in line with the wiring harness. Just in case something went wrong in the gauge and power found its way back to the tank boom....
I usually add another inline when fixing these just for safety due to its location.
Now you know that fuse did have a purpose initially right?
It would be a good idea to install another fuse in line with the wiring harness. Just in case something went wrong in the gauge and power found its way back to the tank boom....
I usually add another inline when fixing these just for safety due to its location.
I added the in line fuse and it changed the resistance reading by 8.8 k. Is this gonna change the fuel level reading?
8.8 kilo ohms ? Thats allot!
It shouldn't have changed the resistance at all. I think maybe the connections to the fuse might be bad.
What did you use for connecting a fuse ?
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Based on the fact that the fuel gauge works off the resistance system, it will make a change.
I'd drain the tank and see where the huge is and then fill it up. This will show you your two extremes.
I'd drain the tank and see where the huge is and then fill it up. This will show you your two extremes.
I have the feeder tube out on the bench and test it by sliding the float from top to bottom. I was getting 89.5 on bottom and 0.2 on top now it's 98 on bottom and 8.8 on top. It's a 250ma fast blow fuse and the fuse itself has the resistance. When I take it out and jump it all goes back to normal. I really don't want to leave the fuse out.
It's the fuse itself. When I test the fuse it's the 8.8 added resistance. I installed a in line 5x20 mini fuse holder with a 250ma fast blow fuse. When I jump the fuse it reads to the shop manual specifications. I really don't want to leave the fuse out. What should I do because I think it's gonna change the gas gauge reading.
Well, connect it and see what happens when you tilt it up and down. It might still be ok. As in the gauge might be tolerant of those resistances.
I mean the gauge registers jumps in resistance and not a true variable resistance.
The fuse should be 0 ohms. Maybe another type of fuse would be better suited for this.
I mean the gauge registers jumps in resistance and not a true variable resistance.
The fuse should be 0 ohms. Maybe another type of fuse would be better suited for this.
Acording to "littlefuse" the 5x20 glass fuses can have several ohms of resistance when going below 1 amp rating.
I would use an inline soldered fuse. I'm trying to find a part number that would work. The ones i used look like resistors.
Sonething like this should work as a direct replacement.
They claim low internal reaiatance.
http://canada.newark.com/littelfuse-wickmann/37002500410/fuse-pcb-250ma-250v-fast-acting/dp/67K1826?CAGPSPN=pla&CATCI=pla-41477300408&gclid=Cj0KEQjw3s6-BRC3kKL_86XDvq4BEiQAAUqtZ8eINTLNPoK1CN8L9bCTX3nyg1q7lNc_9MxVT6pRnCYaAkE48P8HAQ&CAAGID=35202164932&mckv=sLFI6shKq_dm|pcrid|96621768772|plid||kword||match|&CAWELAID=120185770000405342
What happened when you tried it with the 8 ohms added ?
Or with and without the fuse. How did the gauge react?
Try getting the gauge to move half way to full with the fuse and then see how much it moves without the fuse.
I would use an inline soldered fuse. I'm trying to find a part number that would work. The ones i used look like resistors.
Sonething like this should work as a direct replacement.
They claim low internal reaiatance.
http://canada.newark.com/littelfuse-wickmann/37002500410/fuse-pcb-250ma-250v-fast-acting/dp/67K1826?CAGPSPN=pla&CATCI=pla-41477300408&gclid=Cj0KEQjw3s6-BRC3kKL_86XDvq4BEiQAAUqtZ8eINTLNPoK1CN8L9bCTX3nyg1q7lNc_9MxVT6pRnCYaAkE48P8HAQ&CAAGID=35202164932&mckv=sLFI6shKq_dm|pcrid|96621768772|plid||kword||match|&CAWELAID=120185770000405342
What happened when you tried it with the 8 ohms added ?
Or with and without the fuse. How did the gauge react?
Try getting the gauge to move half way to full with the fuse and then see how much it moves without the fuse.
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If you can get me a part number I would appreciate it. I can't put the original one like in the link you sent me back in. I can't get to the board. How do you put the resistor type in? and where can I get it? Thanks for all your help. I have the engine out and all connection off, so I can't test with the gauge.
Fuse
I can find the transistor fuse on the little fuse site but where do I get it from. I am putting the ski back together in the next few days and want to put the right fuse in
I can't say it is the correct thing to do but there are probably hundreds of members that have just soldered the gap and had no issues including me. If you think about it your car has a resistance float and an electric pump in the tank and no fuse on it other than at the junction box.
It's a 250ma pico fuse that looks like a transistor. It's a very fast blow fuse and supposed to to have 0.65 ohms resistance. It's from littlefuse and I think I found a distributor who has the fuse. I'm gonna call tomorrow. But I agree with you. I think the 120 volt 250ma pico fuse from eBay will work just fine. They have the 240volt but the sellers are all from China. I'll let you know what happens. The thing I liked about the 5x20mm fuse with the inline fuse holder is that if a fuse blows I could just change it easily. With the transistor type it will be a big job to change. I have to see if I could rig something to have it plug in on both sides.
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