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Interesting Winterizing Question

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TSmith

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OK, maybe I messed up here, which wouldn't be the first time. When I pulled ski out of the water to investigate some issues, I found that the wear ring and impeller were both toast. So I pulled the pump to verify. Problem is, I didn't winterize the ski first. Now I'm looking at at least a couple of weeks to get new impeller and wear ring and installed. Since I can't run her without the pump, am I in trouble? Is there a way to get all the water out without running the ski? I live in the south, and the ski is parked in an unconditioned garage. Probably OK for a while, but I'm paranoid, so just in case, is there anything I can do?
 
You don't need to run the engine to add antifreeze and displace the water from the cylinder jackets, about two quarts of an appropriate engine antifreeze that's non corrosive and safe for aluminum is all you need for freeze protection. Consult the manual and use hose pinchers in the specified locations prior to filling it.
 
Do I have to use antifreeze? I live in the south and am a firm believer in the "air don't freeze" theory. Is it not possible to just drain the system like you do with a boat?
 
Do I have to use antifreeze? I live in the south and am a firm believer in the "air don't freeze" theory. Is it not possible to just drain the system like you do with a boat?

Until I see antifreeze has filled the cylinders and made it's way up to the tell tale outlet and I take a sample and test it with a sight refractometer it's not winterized. The cost is so minimal compared to the value of the engine why take chances?
 
I hear ya. We were down to 52 degrees this morning.. Any lower, and I'll be winterizing for sure!
 
Your not getting the DEEP Freeze we get in Ohio.. Fog it and antifreeze the system. My area it's still about a month till it gets critical to winterize. Mine have been done for a month now because our season ended at Labor Day this year. We have not even got a killing frost yet.
 
If you get all the water out hen air doesn't freeze. I flush the cooling system with the pink RV antifreeze, the non-toxic stuff. There are model specific procedures plastered everywhere, and in the factory service manual.

There will likely be some water trapped in the low spots, like the bottom of the exhaust manifold, My method involves pinching the engine block drain and pumping RV antifreeze into the cylinder head until it flows out the pump support flush port, I figure that gets all the low spots where water collects.

If you just want to get the water out, you might be able to accomplish that with a wet/dry vacuum connected to the transom exhaust, haven't tried that myself so can't vouch for if all the water from the exhaust expansion pipe cooling jacket is sucked out but wouldn't surprise me.
 
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^^yep those freeze all the time. if its the RFI, just pull the driveshaft out and you can fully winterize. Also...the engine does not need to run to antifreeze the system.
 
^^yep those freeze all the time. if its the RFI, just pull the driveshaft out and you can fully winterize. Also...the engine does not need to run to antifreeze the system.

Yep, it's the 2000 GTX RFI. I'd rather not pull the drive shat unless I have to, but if so is that a fairly simple task? I ordered the SBT refurb impeller, a wear ring and impeller removal tool the other day. I should be ok if I can get it all back together in the next few weeks.
 
I would assume so being in Alabama. In MN, we might be getting plowable snow next week.

On the driveshaft have someone push it towards the engine, then inside the hull push that SS tophat looking piece towards the back to expose the clip or Oring. remove that, then take the clip off the PTO boot. Out she goes.
 
if i remember right on the mag side of the rfi pull the bottom cooling hose on the heat exchanger to drain. should be a quick disconnect.
 
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