I'm a total n00b to owning these and i need help!!!

[C_Fizzle]

I picked up a 98 xp earlier this week for a sweet deal, needed a starter and battery, and after getting the fuel flowing, it flashed right up and ran mint! took it out to the lake for the first time today and bombed around the boat launch for a 5-10 mins, then started to make my way across the lake to my camp. made it to about 30 feet in front of my dock then it stalled on me and i haven't been able to get it started since. it DOES still have the "tempo" lines on it but the thing only had about 10 hours on it. I'm getting lots of fuel and lots of spark, but it just won't kick. i know this question has probably been asked a few times but any help would be super!!!

 

[Spimothy Leary]

could be many many things... maybe a heat seize ? are you locked up or is it free turning right now
(hopefully not)

run a comp test, start there.

 

[Rotor13B]

I picked up a 98 xp earlier this week for a sweet deal, needed a starter and battery, and after getting the fuel flowing, it flashed right up and ran mint! took it out to the lake for the first time today and bombed around the boat launch for a 5-10 mins, then started to make my way across the lake to my camp. made it to about 30 feet in front of my dock then it stalled on me and i haven't been able to get it started since. it DOES still have the "tempo" lines on it but the thing only had about 10 hours on it. I'm getting lots of fuel and lots of spark, but it just won't kick. i know this question has probably been asked a few times but any help would be super!!!

Try starting it on the trailer. If you can't get it back to the trailer have someone help you hold the rearend up out of the water and try starting it. If you get it started do a compression test. In an ideal situation you're looking for 150psi but anything above 130-135 within 10 percent should be ok.

 

[C_Fizzle]

It turns over great!!!!! Never had an issue with that, and its a fresh rebuild, but I'll check the compression tomorrow, I was thinking dirty fuel filter, or carbs...?

 

[hobojoe]

How do the plugs look?

 

[C_Fizzle]

Wet, but not soaked, black on the tips, plenty of fire.... was working great the short time I had it out, then started to bogg out like it was running outta fuel. I switched it over to reserve and that's when it died

 

[gullwingcorsair]

Definitely replace tempo lines. The internal filters need to be cleaned out of each carb, and or replaced. Clean out or replace fuel selector valve. Once selector valve is cleaned out, test it. Make sure it works correctly when it is in the On, Res, and Off Position.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

the comp test is your first step, if comp readings are acceptable, then we move on to the fuel delivery,,, i'd still recommend fuel lines, it costs less than $50 to do that job, then assuming you know carbs are getting fuel, then its time to pull the carbs and look for problems, filters, or worse.

 

[bell99man]

Look up fuel lines on this site...lots of discussion about it. Once you get the carbs clean, put a cheap but very effective in-line fuel filter in the feed line close to the filter in the oil line. This just makes it easy to see and easy to replace when needed. Fram G2 from Walmart or your favorite auto parts store for about $5 will do the trick. Hours of run time aren't the demon of the grey lines. It's just time exposed to fuel. When you take them off you'll see this nasty green goo in front of every connection.

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These were off my GTI's and they ran fine for a few hours before bogging. I'm lucky I didn't burn one up running lean from all that crap in there.

Check this thread out. It has a great tutorial on this issue.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...el-Delivery-Problems-low-revs-bogging-surging

Then go to Snipes Korner in the tech section for tuning.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?4151-Snipes-Korner
Good Luck

Kevin

 

[C_Fizzle]

Replaced the lines, cleaned the carbs, filters and all. Getting lots of fuel, comp is consistent 150 on both cylinders and it still won't kick!! Also had a new coil put on before I bought it, and I snipped back the wires for a better connection. Plugs are brand new too.....I'm stumped

 

[C_Fizzle]

Get this....tried 2 sets of new plugs and got nothing! Put the old plugs in and it flashed right up!!! Put it back in the water, ran for about 60 seconds and died again..... WTF is wrong with this thing?

 

[Rotor13B]

Get this....tried 2 sets of new plugs and got nothing! Put the old plugs in and it flashed right up!!! Put it back in the water, ran for about 60 seconds and died again..... WTF is wrong with this thing?

Did reset the carbs back to factory specs after cleaning? Also try bypassing the fuel selector direct from the baffle to the carb. I'm wondering if the selector has a air leak stopping the flow of fuel. I had a selector crap out on me, I could get it to start and then it would stall out right as you would get on plane. Running it on reserve can get around this but it's not a guarantee. Have you ever tried to drink soda from a straw that has a crack in it? You don't get enough soda and if it's bad enough you won't get anything at all. Just a suggestion.

 

[C_Fizzle]

yea i'll give that a try, i did notice that i didn't have my oil injection syncronized with the carbs and that was probably why it died in the first place, too much oil!!! But i set that and still nothing. i know it's just something stupid!!!! but i think that's what bothers me the most

 

[Linescreamer]

Cleaning the carbs isn't a rebuild. So, when it ran for 60 seconds why did it die? Was it getting enough, or too much fuel?

 

[C_Fizzle]

i didn't claim to have rebuilt the carbs, but the engine itself has been rebuilt. i followed the manual to a "T" when cleaning the carbs and setting them up.... if this was an ATV i'd have no issuses fixing it, but these things are totally alien to me

 

[bell99man]

There is something weird about the plugs there. It should not matter which set you use unless they are gapped way wrong so I would look at that spark issue a lot harder. Check for a good ground. look at all the wire connectors in the ebox for corrosion. If you're sure its got good spark, then I'd go back to the carb. Did you do the pop off test? Sometimes the seat under the needle can get damaged during cleaning if everything was nasty and a little force was applied. If this is leaking, it can run too rich or flood. Did you change the spring or its shape any or bend that rocker arm looking thing any? Will it restart easily after dying?

 

[C_Fizzle]

i'm not sure what you mean by a pop off test, but i may have noticed 2 issues. The spark plugs smell like gas, but are wet with what looks like oil!?!? is it injecting too much oil? Also if i take what appears to be the main fuel line that feeds to the top of the carbs and blow in it with an air gun with light pressure, gas starts to flow out of the top carb nipples, then when i remove the air pressure, it starts spitting back through the main line. seems backwards to me??? and to answer your question about it starting after it dies, no! only if i take the plugs out and clean the oily stuff off of them. then it'll start but smokes alot and stalls, then won't start again. but everything seems to be syncronized.

 

[brock1]

are you running premix still for the breakin???? Or are you running just the oil injection

 

[C_Fizzle]

... injection, im under the assumption it was broken in properly before i bought it

 

[brock1]

which do you have a 1996 seadoo xp with the 800 in it or a 98 xp with the 951 or 800....your profile says somehitng diff. than your post

 

[C_Fizzle]

my bad... it's the 96 with the 800

 

[Linescreamer]

i didn't claim to have rebuilt the carbs, but the engine itself has been rebuilt. i followed the manual to a "T" when cleaning the carbs and setting them up.... if this was an ATV i'd have no issuses fixing it, but these things are totally alien to me

No one said you did and that's the point! You already told us you have a contaminated fuel system, but haven't rebuilt the carbs. That is a REQUIRED step in your repair process. If you don't rule out the fuel delivery system as a root cause of the problem, then you are just wasting your time. Either way, I wish you well.

 

[C_Fizzle]

i dunno... everything looked good to me in the carbs. i'm gettin plenty of fuel, but as soon as is starts it fouls the plugs...

 

[seadude767]

I believe your problem lies in ur fuel selector or in the carbs. And by carbs I mean internally. Dispite the plugs smelling like gas you might now be getting the sufficient fuel needed. Internal filters are possibly clogged and or the jets. Remove the carbs inspect everything throughly and rebuild them while your at it. You never assume anything when you buy something used. Most of the time the ski has been neglected by the previous owner and that's the reason for selling. I'm just telling you from my recent experiance. (Same yr/model ski, same problem)

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

I just had a similar experience. I find out after THREE YEARS of troubleshooting, and replacing the engine over FOUR times, that the jetting on mine is all jacked up. Check the carbs or raptors will come to your house in your sleep. or mabye it's dingos. whatever it is, check everything.