Idle issue

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Diceman

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I have a 1997 SeaDoo GTI with the 85HP 2 stroke engine. I have owned this machine since 1999. It’s run flawlessly up until yesterday. I went for a ride and when I let off the throttle to slow down to idle it immediately stalled. The only way I could start it again was by choking it. I can keep it idling if if I pull the choke every couple seconds. I can get it going and ride it at any speed but it’s bogs when I let off the throttle or stall when I slow to idle. I have not needed to clean the carbs or change the fuel filters. Any thoughts at what the problem might be?
 
I have a 1997 SeaDoo GTI with the 85HP 2 stroke engine. I have owned this machine since 1999. It’s run flawlessly up until yesterday. I went for a ride and when I let off the throttle to slow down to idle it immediately stalled. The only way I could start it again was by choking it. I can keep it idling if if I pull the choke every couple seconds. I can get it going and ride it at any speed but it’s bogs when I let off the throttle or stall when I slow to idle. I have not needed to clean the carbs or change the fuel filters. Any thoughts at what the problem might be?

You've owned it since 1999 and have not cleaned the carbs? You answered your own question, time to take them off and do an oem kit rebuild. Does it still have the original grey tempo lines? If so, need to change them while you're at it.
 
^ This.

1st rule always is to change spark plugs. Otherwise:

It's not getting fuel, for whatever reason. Could be carbs are dirty and clogged with decades of fuel debris (how many years did you say???), or fuel lines have an air leak somewhere (pressure test of 5psi is high enough).

Two points famous for leaks are the fuel selector valve and the water/fuel separator. If the engine mounted fuel pump is pumping air, it's not pumping fuel and there may not be enough to supply the engine under all conditions.

The old grey tempo fuel lines aren't what they used to be, these are a proven source of fuel system contamination and should be replaced.

Always compression test any 2-stroke to avoid chasing ghosts.
 
I do not have the grey fuel lines in this machine. I’ll start with changing the plugs and see what happens. I’ll check the fuel lines for leaks as well. I’ll likely take it in to have the carbs done too.
 
I'm having same problem except barely getting gas at all and I checked my fuel/water separator and it was fine and I replaced my fuel selector valve and it still isnt getting barely any gas how do I check for leaks in hoses?
 
I'm having same problem except barely getting gas at all and I checked my fuel/water separator and it was fine and I replaced my fuel selector valve and it still isnt getting barely any gas how do I check for leaks in hoses?

Pressurize the lines with a gauge on them and see if they hold the pressure. The line from the tank all the way to the carbs should hold 5psi without it dropping.

I know digging into the carbs can be intimidating, but they are honestly the MOST common problem we see with these machines. It’s really worth taking the time to learn how they work inside and out, and there is no better way to do that than rebuilding them yourself. They really are simple parts once you figure them out, and you have great references and resources on this site. Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty...
 
Ok I'll try that today and I already rebuild the carbs with a genuine kit so I know the carbs are fine and when i first put them in it fires right up so I'm thinking maybe one of my lines got ruptured or cracked and I have black lines not those grey lines
 
I put in a oem carb kit. I am still needing to make some adjustments to it as I am still having trouble keeping it running. Is there a lot of adjustments needed after installing the carb kit?
 
You really shouldn’t have to make any adjustments. The factory settings are just about spot on for most people...

They should be one turn out from closed on the low speed screw, and 1-1/2 turns out on the high speed.
 
I am still having trouble keeping it running. Is there a lot of adjustments needed after installing the carb kit?

Reach for the idle adjustment screw and bring the idle up, not sure if that ski has a tach, but 3000 rpm out the water and it'll drop to 1500 in the water. You want about 3/32" slack in the cable after idle is adjusted, then double check the oil pump alignment, little marks should be aligned at idle.
 
I’m going to try to adjust the screws today. After installing the carb kit I need to use the choke off and on to keep it idling. Does this sound like a simple adjustment to the idle screw?
 
We tried to adjust the idle screw But that didn’t solve the stalling issue. Still need to choke it off and on to keep it running. Is there another adjustment under the airbox?.
 
I put in a oem carb kit. I am still needing to make some adjustments to it as I am still having trouble keeping it running. Is there a lot of adjustments needed after installing the carb kit?

When you installed the carb kit, it was genuine oem? For a dual carb, should have been about $125. You used new carb base gaskets? You verified the pop off and pressure checked the carbs? New fuel selector? Sometimes these are a problem, even when brand new. Do a bypass to rule it out. Wouldn't hurt to replace the oring in the fuel strainer, especially if it's original.

I don't think it would neccessarily be your run issue, but I'd clip back the spark plug wires to improve the connection.
 
When you installed the carb kit, it was genuine oem? For a dual carb, should have been about $125. You used new carb base gaskets? You verified the pop off and pressure checked the carbs? New fuel selector? Sometimes these are a problem, even when brand new. Do a bypass to rule it out. Wouldn't hurt to replace the oring in the fuel strainer, especially if it's original.

I don't think it would neccessarily be your run issue, but I'd clip back the spark plug wires to improve the connection.

Yes it was an oem makuni carb kit. It only has one carb on the 717cc Rotax engine. It was a complete rebuild kit with all gaskets. I did not replace the fuel selector. I assume this is the valve used to shut off fuel or switch to reserve. I replaced both plugs and checked for spark on both wires. The fuel lines are all good and have no leaks. Is there an adjustment on the carb for fuel/air?
 
Yes it was an oem makuni carb kit. It only has one carb on the 717cc Rotax engine. It was a complete rebuild kit with all gaskets. I did not replace the fuel selector. I assume this is the valve used to shut off fuel or switch to reserve. I replaced both plugs and checked for spark on both wires. The fuel lines are all good and have no leaks. Is there an adjustment on the carb for fuel/air?

Did you do the carb rebuild yourself? You should have removed the HS and LS needles, replaced the orings etc. Did you verify the pop off? New needle/seats? Do a bypass of fuel selector to rule it out.
 
I had a friend do the complete carb kit. I didn’t realize that I do have the grey fuel lines. I am confident this is the source of the problem. We are going to empty the gas tank, change all fuel lines and try it again.
 
Well unfortunately you’re going to need to crack those carbs open after you change the lines again as well. It doesn’t take any time at all for the green goo to clog things up...
 
Even if you got a new OEM carb kit it doesn't mean that you got the right needle and seat. I am not an expert on that but I got burn before by someone who rebuilt my carb and messed it up completely some years back.
 
You've owned it since 1999 and have not cleaned the carbs? You answered your own question, time to take them off and do an oem kit rebuild. Does it still have the original grey tempo lines? If so, need to change them while you're at it.

I do have the grey temp lines. Going to change them, drain the fuel tank, fix the float for the fuel gauge, and hope that should fix the problem. On a glance I saw a clear fuel line but after doing the carbs realized I have the old grey tempo lines.
 
Ok I'll try that today and I already rebuild the carbs with a genuine kit so I know the carbs are fine and when i first put them in it fires right up so I'm thinking maybe one of my lines got ruptured or cracked and I have black lines not those grey lines

I think my main issue with mine has the grey tempo fuel lines. They are starving the carbs from getting enough fuel.
 
Well unfortunately you’re going to need to crack those carbs open after you change the lines again as well. It doesn’t take any time at all for the green goo to clog things up...

Yup, I found the green goo in the carb and fuel separator tonight and knew exactly what we were dealing with.
 
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