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I bought it!

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Captain RonJon

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Hey folks - so you may know by now (or not) I am brand new to jet skis and I'm already plunging in rebuilding/fixing a 2000 GSX RFI and now I've got another project! A friend of someone I work with had a '00 GTX 787 RFI - 135 hours total on it and about 30 hours on an SBT 787 rebuilt from 2008 (no idea why it needed it back then but doesn't much matter now). They put it in the water earlier this summer, after sitting largely idle for several years due to numerous family issues. Anyway, he said it ran ok but then stalled out and he couldn't get it running again and at that point, due to $$ issues, just wanted to get rid of it. When the start button is pressed it clicks and the shaft turns a little bit but that's it. Is it seized? What should I look at next as a possible cause? I already tried new battery and rectifier, borrowed from my GSX project. LOL, I fear I am in too deep with 2 rigs now but it was such a ridiculous good deal with a trailer, I couldn't resist - that and my 3 teenage boys insisted. Thanks as always for any assistance.
 
could be a starter issue. Also, if that thing sat for a while, I would lube/fog those cylinders BEFORE you try starting it again..
 
I would take the spark plugs out, lube the cylinders, then WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT try turning the flywheel by hand and see if it rotates.
Post back your results
 
Yea, that's what I said, but I'd definitely spray a bit of fogging oil down the cylinders first so the walls don't get scraped if there IS any rust in there.. not worth compromising the engine just to see if its seized or not.
Even if you don't currently have fogging oil with you and you are anxious to see if its seized or not, Ive heard of people putting a TINY bit of the API-TC oil down the cylinders as well, but I'd wait to hear from someone else on using the oil and not the fogging oil
 
The oil is fine to use. If it still doesn't turn over Id take a look at the jet pump to make sure it isn't seized. You can also pull the rave valves to take a peak at the Pistons and look for any signs of damage.
 
96spxpos said:
Yea, that's what I said, but I'd definitely spray a bit of fogging oil down the cylinders first so the walls don't get scraped if there IS any rust in there.. not worth compromising the engine just to see if its seized or not.
Even if you don't currently have fogging oil with you and you are anxious to see if its seized or not, Ive heard of people putting a TINY bit of the API-TC oil down the cylinders as well, but I'd wait to hear from someone else on using the oil and not the fogging oil
Click to expand...

I tried the fogging oil and tried to turn it but no dice, can't get it to turn! Assuming I can locate the jet pump, lol, I will try looking at that next - I didn't realize that could seize as well.
 
You need to pull the pump. If not, you will not know which end the issue is on. And, if you pull it and the motor still won't turn, remove the starter as the Bendix can be stick against the flywheel.
 
When you pull the pump, you should be able to spin it over by hand. And you should be able to spin the motor over by hand as well if you pull the plug. If you pull the pump and it is seized, then you fix the pump. IF the motor does not spin, then pull the starter. If it still wont spin, then you have bigger troubles inside the motor. This is some of the easier troubleshooting on these skis. Good luck.
 
well, pulled the jet pump, spins nice and free though the wear ring looks awful - is there a rebuild kit for jet pumps? - starter also off and still cannot spin the engine, bummer - looks like either SES or Fullbore will get 2 presents from me! Anyone prefer one over the other? I know there are experiences all over the place.
 
Jetskigoodies said:
Pop the head off, see how the top end looks. Take a few pics and post them.
Click to expand...

Ok so I'm trying to get the head off and I've gotten every bolt out except the 2 nearest the ignition coil, they re frozen - funny thing the bolts got harder to get out as I worked my way from back to front. I tried heating with a propane torch but no luck, perhaps I didn't do it long enough? Also hit it with pb - thoughts?
 
Heating it really isn't a good answer as you will be heating the head and upper shaft area, making it the weak link in theory. The hitting it with a ball peen hammer normally works well. Do you have an Impact Driver? They do well to break things loose due to the impact and twisting motion being done at the same time. Worse case, grind the heads off and lift the head up. Then you can use vise grips to grab the shaft. With the head off, you can spray a penetrating fluid on the shaft over a few days and it can get into the threads to break loose the corrosion/calcium that you likely have. I am pretty sure the bolts pass through the water jackect.
 
Coastiejoe said:
Heating it really isn't a good answer as you will be heating the head and upper shaft area, making it the weak link in theory. The hitting it with a ball peen hammer normally works well. Do you have an Impact Driver? They do well to break things loose due to the impact and twisting motion being done at the same time. Worse case, grind the heads off and lift the head up. Then you can use vise grips to grab the shaft. With the head off, you can spray a penetrating fluid on the shaft over a few days and it can get into the threads to break loose the corrosion/calcium that you likely have. I am pretty sure the bolts pass through the water jackect.
Click to expand...

got it; I do not have an impact driver but I can probably borrow a friends. I'll give that a try. Thx!
 
Coastiejoe said:
Heating it really isn't a good answer as you will be heating the head and upper shaft area, making it the weak link in theory. The hitting it with a ball peen hammer normally works well. Do you have an Impact Driver? They do well to break things loose due to the impact and twisting motion being done at the same time. Worse case, grind the heads off and lift the head up. Then you can use vise grips to grab the shaft. With the head off, you can spray a penetrating fluid on the shaft over a few days and it can get into the threads to break loose the corrosion/calcium that you likely have. I am pretty sure the bolts pass through the water jackect.
Click to expand...

oooops, I tried an impact driver, here's the result:

20140925_140902.jpg

Then, for the other bolt, I tried a huge breaker bar but the socket actually rounded the hex head and now I cant get it to bite. So now I'm stuck, any suggestions would be very welcome!
 
You are to the point of grinding the head off and lifting the head off. Then you can grab the shaft. But use a quality penetrating fluid on the shaft over the next few days. Let it work on the corrosion.
 
since the one bolt head is cracked off and the other is rounded now, should he try using an "easy out" bit?
 
Coastiejoe said:
You are to the point of grinding the head off and lifting the head off. Then you can grab the shaft. But use a quality penetrating fluid on the shaft over the next few days. Let it work on the corrosion.
Click to expand...

That's what I thought. Never done that before, what's best to use for grinding the head off? Also, I do have PB, is that sufficient or do you recommend something else?
 
EZ isn't going to do it at this point. His issue was not a lack if being able to turn the bolt it just would not turn. An EZ out will not increase the ability to turn the shaft.


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