• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

how to remove the PTO to spline adapter

Status
Not open for further replies.

Shortrun

Well-Known Member
Hi. Brand new here.
Just got a ski with the engine in pieces.
Cannot get the engine fully apart without removing this large yellow flywheel/adapter.
Is there anyway to get this engine to spline adapter off with the engine in pieces?

1989 SPI with yellow engine.
 

Attachments

  • seadoo 587 spline drive.jpg
    seadoo 587 spline drive.jpg
    12.1 KB · Views: 86
Last edited by a moderator:
I actually just did this with an engine already fully apart and removed from the hull. You're going to need a chain wrench to put around the flywheel and heat it up very hot then it spins right off counter clockwise. If the engines out of the hull like mine was your going to need bolt the engine onto something to keep it in place while you try and break the threads on the flywheel. What I actually did was put a block of wood on top of the motor and jacked a car up and let it down on the motor and with a lot of heat and a chain wrench with a 3 foot breaker it came loose
 
The engine is apart, split in half , not just out of the ski.
There is no way to hold the crack shaft solid.
 
My whole crank shaft was out as well, I put it back into the case and just put 2 of the Allan head bolts back in to hold it together, then a block of wood on the top of crank shaft so the frame of the car didn't hit the rods
 
Ok, I understand. Thanks

I see they sell a tool that fits into the spline. Does anyone use this tool with a air impact wrench?
 
Yes they sell a PTO tool that inserts into the splines. 1/2 breaker bar and 3'-4' cheater pipe will do the trick.
 
Ok, Just so I understand. I can put a chain wrench or use the special spline tool.
But how do I hold the crankshaft from spinning?

I do like the idea of using (some of)the cars weight to hold the crankcase stable.
 
Yes you can use a chain wrench or the special tool.
You will need to put the crank back into the case then put a rag under 1 of the rods and it'll jam up and stop the crank from spinning
 
Ok, I got it now.
You said above that I need to go counter clockwise . Which is the normal direction to loosen a nut, right?
 
Yes, I want to replace the seals.
The MAG side piston is way overheated and the piston skirts broke. That is why the crankcase needs to come apart. Bits everywhere.
Since it is a single carburetor and the PTO piston doesn't have overheating one thing that may cause is is the crank seal. So I want to replace both.
 
The flywheel is not coming off. 3 foot bar and all. Heated for 10 minutes with 2 propane tourches.
Does anyone have experience with cutting the flywheel of.

I think we are going to bust the engine cases if we keep doing what we are doing.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 72
Ok thanks. To bad SeadooBOB didnt show a picture of how he cut it off.
I have been using Kroil to soak it. Will try a few more cycles of heating and letting it cool.

I should add we moved from the car-vise to a big bar bolted to the engine.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 52
Last edited by a moderator:
how secured is the engine is it able to move at all? i just got this one off just now with no heat and very little pressure on the chain wrench. the block of wood actually helps to hold the engine down and protect the crank case as well as stopping the rods from moving ( i also put a rag in )
http://imgur.com/a/K1ff2
 
I have put the whole crankshaft in a big vise before as well as used a hydraulic press to hold the crankshaft then heat and a very long breaker bar, I believe mine was in the 6-8 ft range.
 
We just had propane. 3 torches on it and got it up to 700 degrees F.
I have a 1000 ft/lb air gun (rattle gun) that we have tried. 120 psi air pressure.
We had a 5 foot leaver on the wheel
Tried both cold and hot.
Tried Kroil.
It just does not move.
 
how secured is the engine is it able to move at all? i just got this one off just now with no heat and very little pressure on the chain wrench. the block of wood actually helps to hold the engine down and protect the crank case as well as stopping the rods from moving ( i also put a rag in )
http://imgur.com/a/K1ff2

When we were using the car it was not that secure. Once we moved to the 4 foot long 1/2 thick steel bar it is very secure.

Hope you don't mind, I had trouble seeing your picture j so I am attaching it here.
 

Attachments

  • jc motor.jpg
    jc motor.jpg
    163.8 KB · Views: 56
Last edited by a moderator:
On all the ones I have done the impact has never worked.

I use a standard 1/2" drive breaker bar with the impeller spline tool and slip a jack handle over that. I then heat the inner part of the flywheel with one propane torch until it is very hot and starts to smoke. Then with heavy pressure on the bar you smack it hard with a mini sledge hammer after a couple rounds of this they always spin off.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top