how to remove the PTO to spline adapter

[Shortrun]

We have done all of the above except the "smack it hard with a hammer".
So that is what we will do next.

Also I bought some diet coke and plan to soak the flywheel for a week, while my son is away at school. Next weekend we will go at it again.

 

[mikidymac]

I would pass on the diet coke. It could corrode the crank and seal surface and will not work any better than PB Blaster or something like that.

 

[wfo speedracer]

Have you considered setting it on fire ?

 

[Shortrun]

Ok, it was going to be diffiult to soak properly anyway.
Here is todays try, plus i smacked it with the sledge hammer. No joy.'

 

[racerxxx]

Put the piston on the PTO side back on, put the cylinders on, put the head on. Spin the engine over in the counter clockwise direction until it reaches top dead center. Rotate back a 1/4 turn at most. Get a cotton clothesline and insert about 6' in thru the spark plug hole. Now, turn the crank CCW until the rope blocks the piston from traveling, use a 3' cheater pipe on your breaker bar and the splined impeller removal tool. easily remove the PTO from the crank. Since it's out of the ski you will need to hold the engine still or you will chase it all over the floor. You really should have did all this while it was still in the hull. Impact guns usually will not remove the PTO. I have use a 1" impact gun (no that's not a typo my buddy is a trucker) and the PTO just laughed at it. Tey required a hard steady pull, sneaking up on them in a jerking motion usually won't work.

 

[Shortrun]

Have you considered setting it on fire ?

Had the tourches on it for 15 minutes. It wouldnt burn.
So - we did try.


Also impact tools are great for removing bolts from a large fixed object like a car frame. But its not possible to secure the crankshaft firmly enough.
The long breaker bar should have worked. 200 pounds on the end of a 5 foot pipe equals 1000 ft pounds.
I am amazed the engine case did not break.

 

[pwgsx]

Bolt that sucker up and send it to SBT as a trade in.

 

[Shortrun]

Bolt that sucker up and send it to SBT as a trade in.

There are lots of times I wished that I lived in the great US of A (no sarcasm). If I did, it would really be a no brainer to do as you say. But from Canada I suspect it would cost less to just buy another ski. With shipping and duty and taxes and dollar conversion.

I have been wondering if a white engine would work? There seems to be more of them for sale. Probably not with my single carb and yellow exhaust.

 

[jcleary93]

I'm pretty sure a white 587 would work. I think they're exactly the internal water cooling system is just a bit different

 

[mikidymac]

I think you would need the electronics from a white one too.

 

[Shortrun]

Just to finish this. Here is how it came off.
I wish this was the first thing i did.
Now i have to replace the crankshaft bearings. Which were ok before we started.

 

[Coastiejoe]

You are into it now,,, might want to consider a light rebuild,,,

 

[Shortrun]

Im not sure what you mean by light rebuild.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Now that you are into bearings and what not, it may be worth looking at top end work as well. Pop the heads and do a good thorough check. Little to lose, potential to gain,,,

 

[Shortrun]

I understand.
The reason it is apart, actually we bought it that way, is a piston disintegrated. Looking like lack of oil but we may never know.
My son is an apprentice machinist and he is going to bore the cylinders. He has a couple old skidoo cylinders to practice on first.
So new pistons for sure.
It will be a great experience.
Certainly appreciate all the help here.

 

[mikidymac]

Make sure he sets the pistons up to factory specifications and chamfers the ports.

 

[Shortrun]

This is a learning experience so we will see how it goes
We have the factory bore diameter number and from that we added 0.010 inches for 10 thou over. Then subtracted
0.003 inch which will be what is removed in the honing process. (theoretically)
After boring we will measure the bores up for consistency top to bottom and for roundness.

If that all looks pretty good we will buy 2 pistons either 0.010 over or 0.020 over, depending on how the first attempt of boring went.

Once we get here, then hone to spec.
That's the theory anyway. We have honed and installed pistons in other engines so have a feel for how that goes.
Those engines (ski doo's ) have a couple years running now so we did something right.

 

[92rslt1]

This is a learning experience so we will see how it goes
We have the factory bore diameter number and from that we added 0.010 inches for 10 thou over. Then subtracted
0.003 inch which will be what is removed in the honing process. (theoretically)
After boring we will measure the bores up for consistency top to bottom and for roundness.

If that all looks pretty good we will buy 2 pistons either 0.010 over or 0.020 over, depending on how the first attempt of boring went.

Once we get here, then hone to spec.
That's the theory anyway. We have honed and installed pistons in other engines so have a feel for how that goes.
Those engines (ski doo's ) have a couple years running now so we did something right.

You need to get the pistons first, measure them and then bore it. Every piston is different, you can't just bore it to that size assuming the piston will be that exact size. To practice you could buy the pistons, try the bore and hone then measure and see how good you made out.

 

[Shortrun]

Hey. 92rslt1
Do you have expierence running a boring machine? How close tolerance do you think we will be able to bore too?

 

[92rslt1]

0.004-0.005 is wall clearance. I would aim for the middle ground... and I think taper was .002. Don't quote me on that, I'm not a jet ski guru by any means. Racerxxx might know the exact values.

I haven't had any experience on a bore machine since 2000. But I do know if you dont order the pistons first your never going to get it in spec. Its a shot in the dark without them and you might end up over bored with a useless jug, no two pistons are created equal. Another thing to watch out for its making sure you have the bore perfectly straight.

 

[racerxxx]

I have my cylinders bores to 0.0045 wall clearance, I also will only use OEM pistons so make sure you go with the clearance for whoever's pistons you use. Honestly I love doing all my own chit and my father in law has a full blown machine shop and can do anything. It's not worth your time to bore your own cylinders, we thought about it. By the time we're done setting up and indicating the other guys will have them done and chamfered and the set up is pretty easy. I drop cylinders off on a Monday and pick them up a few days later for $135 a pair. Trust me, I get it that YOU want to do it, that is how I was raised and still do things. Time is money and I could be doing other things that would negate the $135 in 2 hours. Save yourself the headache.