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How to rebuild supercharger

burtshaver2021

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Is this supercharger something that the average joe can rebuild themselves. What’s the cost roughly and procedure. I will do some research but in the meantime I appreciate any input on anything to do with this machine. Thanks
 
I looked up 3 or 4 you tube video’s, looks to be not very difficult but damn, 600.00 CDN plus tax for the rebuild kit and from what I’m reading BRP recommends it to be done every 2 years or 200 hours so of course 2 years will come first. A lot of different threads recommend every 100 hours.
 
I'm gonna have some fun with this. Machinist all my life, condition based repair is my method. Bearings don't go bad in 100 hours. Perhaps the washers if you ride hard. I'm checking. If the Supercharge spins smooth and no slack the bearings are good thus the supercharger is good. Perhaps replacing the washers may be a good idea. I'm not gonna argue with experience but mostly people don't do proper maintenance and not all mechanics are created equal. I'm gonna check the torque on the one I just bought. It's about 70 hours on the rebuild. Feed them good air and no water they should last. My VW had 230k miles on the turbo charger. It ain't rocket science.
 
After riding the 2009 RXT... the Supercharger needs attention. These engines talk to you I tell ya. :D Very apparent the Charger was breaking loose on torque. I'm now seeing 199 hours on the ski so it's time. Hope they didn't do too much damage riding the ski like this. Order me a WSM kit from Bay Area Powersports. Gonna pull the Charger and rebuild it that way... we'll be good to go. If I decide to keep this one I'll check the torque setting yearly.
 
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After riding the 2009 RXT... the Supercharger needs attention. These engines talk to you I tell ya. :D Very apparent the Charger was breaking loose on torque. I'm now seeing 199 hours on the ski so it's time. Hope they didn't do too much damage riding the ski like this. Order me a WSM kit from Bay Area Powersports. Gonna pull the Charger and rebuild it that way... we'll be good to go. If I decide to keep this one I'll check the torque setting yearly.
I did some web research on bearings that I posted on the Seadoo Facebook owners page. I recently installed a kit from SBT which came with koyo bearings.

As a machinist, you know that all metal parts aren't created equal despite looking identical. Koyo's have a 24,000 max rpm rating. The FAG oem's have a 36,000 rating. SKF is similar. The supercharger is 6 to 1, which equates to 30,000 supercharger at 5,000 engine. As a retired aerospace engineer, my perspective is this is why the bearings fail. They are frequently run over limit.

Next kit I buy, I'm installing FAG or SKF bearings. Fingers crossed I don't get a clone bearing.
 
I did some web research on bearings that I posted on the Seadoo Facebook owners page. I recently installed a kit from SBT which came with koyo bearings.

As a machinist, you know that all metal parts aren't created equal despite looking identical. Koyo's have a 24,000 max rpm rating. The FAG oem's have a 36,000 rating. SKF is similar. The supercharger is 6 to 1, which equates to 30,000 supercharger at 5,000 engine. As a retired aerospace engineer, my perspective is this is why the bearings fail. They are frequently run over limit.

Next kit I buy, I'm installing FAG or SKF bearings. Fingers crossed I don't get a clone bearing.
I wonder if these bearings have a degree of loosness due to the high RPM and environment? Even the same bearing number can be different internally. We had to order special bearings for our 4 stage 350hp blowers that ran 24/7. The bearing was the same size but had a greater loosness than a regular bearing. Sounded crazy to us 35 years ago. :D Have to agree the Supercharger system is a crap design. On the RPM I've seen above 8k RPM so that's 50,000 rpm.

Shooting from the hip, I believe the failures are due to impurities in the airflow, and worn pieces of the washers getting into the bearings. I think maintaining the proper torque might make the supercharge last longer but if you are bringing it to Seadoo the adjustment would cost too much to be worth while in savings. For a mechanical owner... it might make a big difference. Good Stuff but for most people, they don't have the tools or knowledge to pursue it. You are not going wrong with better bearings. :D
 
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I'm fixing to take this trash apart. :D Parts are here. Post here are start another thread?
 
If that's all it takes to make you happy my brother... it's done. :D There will be pictures. The previous owner told me I have to do something with the floating suspension to remove the supercharger and I've read that some people can't remove the supercharger without removing the jet pump. Typical for me... always a extra stuff to do. :D
 
If that's all it takes to make you happy my brother... it's done. :D There will be pictures. The previous owner told me I have to do something with the floating suspension to remove the supercharger and I've read that some people can't remove the supercharger without removing the jet pump. Typical for me... always an extra stuff to do. :D
Well, it saves me from replying to a new thread so I get the notifications. It don’t take much to keep me happy, some coffee, smokes, a Seadoo or 12, a few snowmobiles, some good Seadoo forum threads and I’m good, 🙂
 
I wonder if these bearings have a degree of loosness due to the high RPM and environment? Even the same bearing number can be different internally. We had to order special bearings for our 4 stage 350hp blowers that ran 24/7. The bearing was the same size but had a greater loosness than a regular bearing. Sounded crazy to us 35 years ago. :D Have to agree the Supercharger system is a crap design. On the RPM I've seen above 8k RPM so that's 50,000 rpm.

Shooting from the hip, I believe the failures are due to impurities in the airflow, and worn pieces of the washers getting into the bearings. I think maintaining the proper torque might make the supercharge last longer but if you are bringing it to Seadoo the adjustment would cost too much to be worth while in savings. For a mechanical owner... it might make a big difference. Good Stuff but for most people, they don't have the tools or knowledge to pursue it. You are not going wrong with better bearings. :D
Yes, you are correct based on what I've read..https://bywbbearing.com/bearing-clearance-everything-you-need-to-know/. There are also hybrid bearings, ceramic/metal that you get in 6200 series. I considered getting a pair of those and seeing how they work out. Turbos use ceramic bearings, and it would seem that they might have a higher reliability. From what I've read they have a higher speed rating, due to thermal and material properties that are not subject to deformation. Not sure I want to risk damage if they don't work out. I was working with some engineers and testers from Pratt & Whitney back in the 90s and they told me that they had experimented with ceramic turbine blades for the same reason. However, they found out that the blades would absorb fuel on wet starts, and explode once the flame lit so abandoned the technology.

Would seem that some sort of a cover could be developed to contain supercharger fragments that would make the system a little resistant to engine damage. The oil screen in the pump area helps to keep debris out of the rear pump, and the general flow migrates everything to that area of the PTO cover. There's no magnetic material in the bottom of the cover to help capture and contain ferrous metals.
 
If that's all it takes to make you happy my brother... it's done. :D There will be pictures. The previous owner told me I have to do something with the floating suspension to remove the supercharger and I've read that some people can't remove the supercharger without removing the jet pump. Typical for me... always a extra stuff to do. :D
Both my 2015 and 2016 skis are suspension skis, and although I've only owned them a couple years have taken the upper deck off several times. It's not too hard once you get used to it, first time getting some of the fasteners out is a bitch if they are corroded. I coat them with copper Permatex anti-seize for easy removal next go around. It helps to have an overhead crane or engine lift, you can get the supercharger out just by disconnecting the rear hinge and removing the engine cover. Not much space in there though, and getting the cover out the back is a challenge. If you take the entire assembly off, the handlebar steering cable and 24 pin connector need to be disconnected from the handlebars. I use two 1x3s to support the front suspension deck attachments. If you don't, you risk tearing a hole in the bellows.

BRP uses well nuts to hold plastic parts on which are brass, and the allen head screws are 304 stainless. Galvanic corrosion sets in after a while and the rubber well nut will spin in the fiberglass making them unremovable. I discovered out that you can use a flat wide pry bar with a nail v at the end to pry them out. Just try to get the pry bar underneath the plastic without tearing the seal so that the v is directly under the washer area, then pry it out. Well nuts can be bought on Amazon, M6-1.0 well nuts, 1/2" hole .630 length.

You will also need a star wrench and socket, wrenches are also available on Amazon, it's an E8 size. I bought the DURATECH 4-piece set, double box end. Can get the socket set at Harbor Freight. My Supercharger toolset also included the E8 wrench. Supercharger can be removed without removing the jet pump, only has three screws holding it.

I needed to use my shop press to do the rebuild. The nut on the impeller side is a four post similar to what you see on outboard lift cylinders. If you've had any experience with those, it's difficult to hold the post socket on to the nut and if you're not careful, it will pop out eventually ruining the nut. I put the supercharger housing in my shop press and used it to hold the socket and breaker bar on the nut. Even heating the housing, the nut was so tight, I would have never gotten it out in a vise. The engine side bearing also had to be pressed in the housing during installation, some videos on You Tube showed this. However, the instructions state to install the bearing on the spindle first and then drive it into the housing. This puts a lot of pressure on the inner bearing race, even after heating the housing, and I don't think it is a good method. Next rebuild, I'm going to install the bearings into the supercharger housing pressing the outer race, and then putting the spindle in. The difficulty will be aligning the bearing spacer.
 
Both my 2015 and 2016 skis are suspension skis, and although I've only owned them a couple years have taken the upper deck off several times. <snip>
Next rebuild, I'm going to install the bearings into the supercharger housing pressing the outer race, and then putting the spindle in. The difficulty will be aligning the bearing spacer.
Wow that's great information. Sounds like a real pain in the azz for sure. :D Just curious, how much would a shop charge for the supercharger rebuild and install on the suspension ski? I'm not paying... but I think the guy that sold the ski sold it for this reason. It's time.

The good thing about this ski is that the Supercharger was done at the proper interval so hopefully the parts will come out without much trouble. How long does it take to get the suspension crap out of the way? How long does the total job take? I'm gonna take pictures then when I finish I'm gonna kick myself in the azz for buying this junk. :D :D I was curious about trying a 4-stroke so I didn't do too bad for $2500. :)
 
I see rebuilt super charger for sale here for 1000.00 for a 215HP, I think most people are charging roughly 400.00 CDN to rebuild them
 
I see rebuilt super charger for sale here for 1000.00 for a 215HP, I think most people are charging roughly 400.00 CDN to rebuild them
There is a guy I found on Ebay that lives in Florida. He comes highly recommended and I talked with him about it. I had already ordered the WSM parts kit that has the wrenches. This guy will also just change the torque washers if you like but for the money and time it just doesn't make sense to me. He said if I send him the parts he'll rebuild it for $130 which is worth it but I'd have to tack on shipping to and from. I like the adventure.
 
I don't like the fact that so many items have to be removed. That's just more opportunity for something to break. Almost like a "SPARK." Ick. At least I'll be able to get at the oil system, coolant and such.

Remove Suspension Video
 
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