If that's all it takes to make you happy my brother... it's done.

There will be pictures. The previous owner told me I have to do something with the floating suspension to remove the supercharger and I've read that some people can't remove the supercharger without removing the jet pump. Typical for me... always a extra stuff to do.
Both my 2015 and 2016 skis are suspension skis, and although I've only owned them a couple years have taken the upper deck off several times. It's not too hard once you get used to it, first time getting some of the fasteners out is a bitch if they are corroded. I coat them with copper Permatex anti-seize for easy removal next go around. It helps to have an overhead crane or engine lift, you can get the supercharger out just by disconnecting the rear hinge and removing the engine cover. Not much space in there though, and getting the cover out the back is a challenge. If you take the entire assembly off, the handlebar steering cable and 24 pin connector need to be disconnected from the handlebars. I use two 1x3s to support the front suspension deck attachments. If you don't, you risk tearing a hole in the bellows.
BRP uses well nuts to hold plastic parts on which are brass, and the allen head screws are 304 stainless. Galvanic corrosion sets in after a while and the rubber well nut will spin in the fiberglass making them unremovable. I discovered out that you can use a flat wide pry bar with a nail v at the end to pry them out. Just try to get the pry bar underneath the plastic without tearing the seal so that the v is directly under the washer area, then pry it out. Well nuts can be bought on Amazon, M6-1.0 well nuts, 1/2" hole .630 length.
You will also need a star wrench and socket, wrenches are also available on Amazon, it's an E8 size. I bought the DURATECH 4-piece set, double box end. Can get the socket set at Harbor Freight. My Supercharger toolset also included the E8 wrench. Supercharger can be removed without removing the jet pump, only has three screws holding it.
I needed to use my shop press to do the rebuild. The nut on the impeller side is a four post similar to what you see on outboard lift cylinders. If you've had any experience with those, it's difficult to hold the post socket on to the nut and if you're not careful, it will pop out eventually ruining the nut. I put the supercharger housing in my shop press and used it to hold the socket and breaker bar on the nut. Even heating the housing, the nut was so tight, I would have never gotten it out in a vise. The engine side bearing also had to be pressed in the housing during installation, some videos on You Tube showed this. However, the instructions state to install the bearing on the spindle first and then drive it into the housing. This puts a lot of pressure on the inner bearing race, even after heating the housing, and I don't think it is a good method. Next rebuild, I'm going to install the bearings into the supercharger housing pressing the outer race, and then putting the spindle in. The difficulty will be aligning the bearing spacer.