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HELP! the next step is dynamite!

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Rwshaw01

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I recently acquired a 2002 GTX DI that supposedly was "only having TPS issues". Upon diagnosis and continual work on the ski for the last 2 weeks I am in no better position than I was when I bought the ski. It fires right up no issue and idles fine around 1440rpm. At slow speeds the engine seems to perform well but it does not have any real out of the hole power that I would expect from this ski. It sputters (although less now after the work I have done) up to around low 4k rpm range and then refuses to go over 5k. The engine seems to be mis-firing/ sputtering consistently; and 100% of the time when in that rev range the "MAINT" signal comes on and the red light starts flashing. No beeping is occurring. If I slow down to below 2krpm the ski will idle fine and the maint light goes off.

Over the last 2 weeks I have replaced the fuel filter, cleaned out the supply line to the rail, cleaned both filter screens on the fuel pump, cleaned and checked the injectors, replaced the solenoid valve and check valve attached to solenoid, replaced the rectifier AND stator, new plugs, checked and charged battery, deep cleaned all electrical connections, compression tested the cylinders (both hold steady at 122psi), fresh non-ethanol fuel with a cleaning/ lubricating additive, inspected and cleaned all RAVE valves (the bellows in side of them look like originals but I am not 100% sure they are bad...they look a little weak), and a few other minor things that are not coming to mind. I have the shop repair manual to follow along with as well.

I am at a loss as to what else it could be and any of the shops in my area are 5-6 weeks out on even diagnosing whats wrong. I am pressure testing the fuel lines today just to be sure adequate fuel is being delivered. I was also thinking of ordering new bellows for the rave valves and see if this helps. I have not pressure tested the air compressor yet. Could that be an issues? As the title says HELP!...my next step is dynamite!
 
That compression seems low but I’ll let someone more familiar with the engine in that model comment.
 
Check your fuel pressure. Should be 27psi key on and 107psi engine running. Seems like this could be your problem with no beeping but the MAINT light comes on.
 
Yep, confirm fuel pressure is good. If that checks out then sounds like you need a CanDooPro. Otherwise you will continue throwing expensive parts at it without guaranteeing a fix.

Does it have an OEM fuel pump?
 
Bought it with an after market fuel pump. I’ve read about a lot of issues with a.m. pumps and causing this issue. I rented a pressure test kit and it was missing the necessary parts to test the fuel pressure... on the hunt for another one. After that I’m at a loss and have an appt with a shop that has the can doo... in 3 weeks. Seasons gonna be over by the time this gets solved lol
 
I would start with that pump, very possible it’s the root of the problem. I was having the same issues but with an old, worn out OEM pump. Bought a used OEM pump and the ski ran like new.....
 
Has anyone had any experience with either Quantum or Venom brand fuel pumps? Both state they have been engineered to Sea Doo specs for flow rate, pressure, and amperage draw. Quantum claims to be “Sea doo forum approved”. I have a quantum on the ski now but judging by everything I’m reading it has worn out.
 
I’ve used the quantum 500di, failed after almost an hour. They just don’t hold up to the need of the DI engine. Just go with OEM.....
 
Hello...im new and just joined! I understand your frustration.....Hopefully i can help. i do know this you are "in limp mode"....the rev litter is cutting out the engine to prevent further damage.....@4850 rpm. You have a few choices. Let's start with an important verification......make sure the water temp sender and knock sensor are not cross wired.....black/blue stripe & yellow/blue stripe should be connected to knock sensor.... water temp is behind fuel rail....switch them if they are....there are almost 11 to 12 different things that can cause the "maint"...."red led"...."no buzzer"...."limited rev"..to occur.......and yes.....throttle position sensor is one....but the "tps" system has 12 different volt/ohm check. Soooo...start the knock sensor and let's see what you come up with....it the obvious sensor on the top of the head and it should have an ohm reading of about 5 mega ohms...water temp sensor is about 2280 to 2740 ohms....good luck !
 
After re reading you post I am going to take a shot at this.
Is the new rectifier OEM or Aftermarket?
There is VERY few aftermarket fuel pumps that actually work.
Aftermarket rectifiers don’t hold up as well.

Now what is happening in my opinion is as you accelerate using more amps the rectifier cannot keep up with demand because aftermarket fuel pump is drawing too much amperage, therefore the maint light comes on throwing a code.

It is my opinion that you need to contact Westsidepowersports, talk to Jess and purchase a proven used fuel pump. When you receive the pump, if not already done, replace the pump filters.
While waiting for the fuel pump I would go to my local dealer and purchase a rectifier IF your new rectifier is not OEM.
I also think you need access/purchase a candoo pro.
 
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Jhjesse is correct you have to have OEM to even diagnose properly. Otherwise you can get sidetracked with an unrelated problem......Fyi a bad Rave valve won't put u in limp mode...but a bad "Rave valve solenoid will !......you should be getting 10 to 15 psi at the Rave valve. Voltage should be around d 12.5 volts at startup and build to to about 13.2 after a minute or so at the battery....keep us posted !
 
Like I said before, I went through something similar. I changed the rectifier and fuel pump at the same time. Ski runs great now, had to be one of those....
 
That compression seems low but I’ll let someone more familiar with the engine in that model comment.
Compression is a little low but it should still perform well at WOT.
140psi is perfect. 120psi is getting closer but still has life left.
 
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