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Nobody ????recently bought a 96 xp and I plan to buy the kit to rebuild carb.
but I do not know anything about these carb with 2 fuel pumps
someone knows something about them
The previous owner told me they were 44mm
thank
Yes they are modified Mikuni sbn's 44's. They are "after the sale" carbs that Mikuni makes that do not have to meet epa standards like the stock OEM ones do. The normal kits should work for these. A tuner has modified them further and I'm not sure which yet. Give us a good look down the barrel at the bomb sights if you can. They are spigot mount and on a Novi billet intake manifold.
Those carbs are early Buckshot's. They work really good feeding modified engines that have aftermarket pipes and such. They may be a little much for a stock set up. Did it run well before? If so then it will again if you left the same springs in and it holds pop off psi. It will be down then to the turning of the adjustment screws.
If these carbs and manifold are the only aftermarket parts on the ski then I would put it back stock. That way you know where everything needs to be and it just works. If you want to tune it with those carbs I will be happy to walk you through it.
If these carbs and manifold are the only aftermarket parts on the ski then I would put it back stock. That way you know where everything needs to be and it just works. If you want to tune it with those carbs I will be happy to walk you through it.
yes
rossi exhaust pipe and bypass the water regulator
r&d headcover
navi intake manifold
beach house sponsos
185 psi in both cylinder
rossi exhaust pipe and bypass the water regulator
r&d headcover
navi intake manifold
beach house sponsos
185 psi in both cylinder
rossi exhaust pipe and bypass the water regulator
r&d headcover
navi intake manifold
beach house sponsos
premix 40:1
the pop off is 19 psi
I used the same spring
185 psi in both cylinder
the first test before carb rebuild run 58 mph and smooth idle
but the ski had 2 year sitting
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Sounds like a well set up boat. 58 and a good idle is good. Now you know it has good jetting for the setup. That pop off sounds fine. Here is what I would do...
Start with the lows out 1 and 1/4 turn and the highs turned out the same. Turn out the mechanical idle screw just until the butterfly closes completely. Rotate the round bases in the spigot mounts until the two carbs open and close together. When you crank it on the trailer set the idle for 2800ish. Hit the throttle quickly and see if it bogs or loads up. If it bogs then turn out another 1/4 turn.
You will need a good digital tach to dial it in up top. You will need to ride it in a place with flat water where you can make some high speed passes. The last thing you want is to hear "spark knock" or to have your rpm's backing off of their initial highs. You want to have it pull hard all the way to top rpm and hold it. After checking max rpm open the highs 1/8 of turn and make another pass. If you gain rpm open 1/8 and try again. If they fall go back in in 1/8 turn at a time and watch the rpms climb until they don't anymore. Then open those highs 1/8 so your not too lean. You should pull your plugs after high speed runs to make sure they are not grey or white(search plug chop test). The rear cylinder tends to run hotter so leaving the high speed needle out 1/8 further is good practice.
Start with the lows out 1 and 1/4 turn and the highs turned out the same. Turn out the mechanical idle screw just until the butterfly closes completely. Rotate the round bases in the spigot mounts until the two carbs open and close together. When you crank it on the trailer set the idle for 2800ish. Hit the throttle quickly and see if it bogs or loads up. If it bogs then turn out another 1/4 turn.
You will need a good digital tach to dial it in up top. You will need to ride it in a place with flat water where you can make some high speed passes. The last thing you want is to hear "spark knock" or to have your rpm's backing off of their initial highs. You want to have it pull hard all the way to top rpm and hold it. After checking max rpm open the highs 1/8 of turn and make another pass. If you gain rpm open 1/8 and try again. If they fall go back in in 1/8 turn at a time and watch the rpms climb until they don't anymore. Then open those highs 1/8 so your not too lean. You should pull your plugs after high speed runs to make sure they are not grey or white(search plug chop test). The rear cylinder tends to run hotter so leaving the high speed needle out 1/8 further is good practice.
Run better
But no get top speed Only go at 48 mph
Any idea....
When we open the low and high needle flow more gas or more air ?
Opening the high and the low needle allow more fuel in. I need rpm #'s to help determine where you are so I can guess which way to go. Make sure the throttle cable is adjusted so it opens the butterflies inside the carbs all the way up when you pin it.
Last night I talked about the linkage between carbs but I see yours are "shaft to shaft". So you will not be twisting in the Spigot mounts but make sure the butterflies are together because it's easy for them to be one click off.
Last night I talked about the linkage between carbs but I see yours are "shaft to shaft". So you will not be twisting in the Spigot mounts but make sure the butterflies are together because it's easy for them to be one click off.
Sounds perfect. That's called "reverse jetting" and it's because the bores have so much more air now at 44mm that they need big lows to avoid a lean bog. Everything's flowing at WOT and your total jetting of 240 is textbook for a 787 with mods and 44's.
If I change the main jet to (147.5) gain power or
Is too much gas I see the 110 jet is really close
If you have more fuel then you need then you will loose power. I would keep what you had and start the HS needles 1.25 turns out from closed. I would start the lows at 1.25 also.
You need a tachometer. Look at the TTO tach/hour meter on ebay or Amozon or where ever. It will help you see if the adjustments you are making is a + or -
You need a tachometer. Look at the TTO tach/hour meter on ebay or Amozon or where ever. It will help you see if the adjustments you are making is a + or -
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