Help Appreciated

[chipstal]

I just found my latest project and am wondering if I'll regret it?
I found a 1995 Sportster (maybe 96) it has a lanyard instead of key

The engine was rebuilt 3 years ago with less than 2 hours on it.

That's the good news, the bad news is that it sat for 3 years.
The upholstery is cracked and mildewed, the battery is dead and probably needs replaced and she still has the gray fuel lines.

Is it best to remove the engine cover to access the engine compartment?

How do I reach the bolts on the upper arm rests? The manual says thru the cup holder hole. Shit my hands won't even fit in that hole!

She looks like we could have fun together...:cheers:

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

I hope I'm up for this challenge...

 

[Dr Honda]

Cosmetic work is easy. Yes, you get to the bolts though the cup holders. I got the neighbor's wife (skinny arms) to come do it for me, so if you have big arms... don't even try.

If you need new covers... you can contact the person below. Tell him that Dr Honda sent you from this board.

http://seadooupholstery.com/Home_Page.html


I'm not sure what you are asking about the engine compartment. If you open the deck lid... the floor just lifts out, and you will see the engine.

 

[chipstal]

Deck Lid

My thought is rather than bending over the back seat. Wouldn't it be easier to remove the deck lid and work from the rear or stern in boatology :hurray:

Also the title on this boat says 1995, but it has a lanyard which I thought came out in 1996?

Has anybody successfully bypassed the MPEM system? (Just a thought)

Haven't decided which route to go with this project yet. First thing see if it runs....:rofl:

 

[voodoo]

Because of the time sitting, it would be best to remove the plugs and pour in a spoon of trans oil or some lightwieght oil to lube the sliding parts and try moving the driveshaft by hand or pliers to work the oil into the cyls and a little will drip down to the roatating parts, then using a good battery and a spoon of premix gas in the carbs see if it cranks fast enough to startup, always a good idea to press the flame screen back into the holder when experimenting with fuel, NEVER use a battery charger or a running car/truck as a booster to aid a dead battery, there should be stickers around the engine bay to warn you this causes damage to the ignition electronics and they are expensive and sometimes hard to find in general, you already know something about the gray fuel lines, clean out the carb screens when you are doing the lines - a digital camera is helpful to keep the inlet/outlet lines going to the carbs the right way, when you get it going the first 5 gallons with premix is cheap insurance while monitoring for oil drinking and leaking, ya those seat screws are really tough but fortunately once in 10 years is all ya have to doo.

 

[Dr Honda]

Because of the time sitting, it would be best to remove the plugs and pour in a spoon of trans oil or some lightwieght oil to lube the sliding parts...

No... that is a bad idea. Only use 2-stroke oil in these engines. ATF has friction modifiers that are great for wet clutch packs, and for a high pressure hydraulic system... but are horrible for a 2 stroke. Now... that is what you do to an old car engine to free the rings... but it has it's own oil the will get pumped in as soon as the engine fires.


For the lanyard. There are a hand full of 95's with them. (rare) but yes... normally the 96 and newer boats got it. Just look at the last 2 numbers of the hull number, and it will tell you the year.

Finally... on your boat... yeas, you can bypass the MPEM... but it's not easy, or safe. Here's the deal. On the 720 engine... the CDI is a stand-alone unit. It is capable of running with no external power. (runs from the mag) TO start that engine, all you have to do is disconnect the wire going between the mag and the CDI/coil... that splits off to the MPEM... jump the solenoid, and it will run.

With that said... the MPEM controls the power to everything else, so you would have to wire up your own power control and distribution center. And the most important thing is the MPEM has the rev limiter built into it. Without it... you could blow the engine the first time your pump comes unhooked. (cavatation, or jumping waves) The solution for that is to add the old rev limiter from the 650 motor (but has a 6500 red line) or use an aftermarket unit. (expensive) If your MPEM isn't roasted... take the boat to a dealer and have them program a new lanyard to it. (the cheapest solution)

If you just want to hear the engine run... then that's fine.

TO ALL... this will not work on the 800 engines.