GTX DI - Isolator Between Throttle Body and Exhaust

[WaarrEagle]

My engine is off getting rebuilt so I am trying to work through some of the items I broke during the removal process. Today's project is the isolator between the throttle body and exhaust. It broke when I tried to remove it. I see a replacement is pretty cheap, but I can't get the old one off. The rubber broke off but the round metal base is still attached. I tried to unscrew it with locking pliers and it started to move but still has not broken free. Are there any tricks here or just keep working it off?
Here is mine:


A replacement looks like:

 

[WaarrEagle]

So it sheared off. I saw it coming but didn't know what else to do. Thankfully I have some time to get this fixed. Should I find a shop to drill/tap the hole or just buy a used exhaust pipe?

 

[etemplet]

I would get some PB Blaster penetrating fluid from home Depot and spray copious amounts. Let it sit overnight and give it a gentle try. Wiggle it back and forth, don't go to far either way and work it free. Vise-Grips. The fact that it moved means it is not frozen so it should come about. If not, break it all the way off, re-drill and tap.

On a side note, I just find mine.... it has been so long I forgot what went there. LOL Mine also doesn't line up all that well which is strange. It's gonna fail prematurely if I don't address it. Good Luck !!

 

[mikidymac]

Some heat on the manifold might help free it also.

 

[WaarrEagle]

While my engine is off at SES, I spent some time on this issue. I soaked the area in penetrating oil for several weeks and was still unable to get it out using an extractor. Then I took it to 2 local shops that work on PWC's and both told me there was no hope given the metallurgy differences between the pipe (aluminum) and the bolt (steel) combined with age (20 years) and so many heat cycles. So i am trying to source a replacement. Does anyone have an explanation of the various part numbers? Below is a photo of mine but I see part # 274000767 when I search on SeaDoo Warehouse. Are they all interchangeable?

 

[mikidymac]

Call Nick or Jess at Westside Powersports Seadoo.

 

[etemplet]

Grind it off flush. Center punch it and drill the sucker. You could try a left handed drill bit but I don't waste time with that stuff however... I have seen them work. Buy a helicoil and install it. VIOLA.... your done.

Metallurgy.... LOL heat cycles..... LOL all excuses for... I don't know how to do it.

 

[WaarrEagle]

I was not familiar with helicoils but now understand the application... when you can't oversize the bolt (like in this case) but have to drill the old bolt out. I may take one more shot at finding a machine shop that can do that before buying a replacement pipe. I am in Houston so there must be someone around here that is capable.

 

[etemplet]

You can do it. It's easy.

 

[WaarrEagle]

I finally got this resolved and wanted to post an update. Multiple shops were unable to get the old broken bolt out. The last one finally drilled it out, welded in the hole with aluminum, and drilled/tapped a new hole. The new rubber isolated screws in perfectly so I am pleased!

The shop that did it was TDT Welding and Machine at 4918 Pinemont in Houston, TX. They dont really have a web listing but are in the same building as TDTPlumbing.com.