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Getting rid of oil injection on 94 xp

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wetbiker40

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So I'm tired of this dang seadoo.... But I just rebuilt the carbs which should have solved the bogging down part of it. It is the 94 xp with the 657x motor but the oil injection line has come undone and and My friend who works at a boat shop said that it would probably be smart and wise to get rid of the oil injection and just go streight to premix incase the oil injection fails and it would be easier to fix. This easy to do and should I do it?
 
That's up to you... but the seadoo oil injection is dam near bullet proof if maintained.

You need to change the filter every 2 years. You need to change the small oil hoses every few years, and make sure it's adjusted properly.

If you spend 10 minutes inspecting the oil system twice a year, (For broken, and leaking hoses) and 30 minutes replacing the above parts every other year... you will never have an issue. 99% of the time... when we see some one saying that the oil injection died on their ski... it's because it has been neglected for a long time.

OK... with that said... if you want to remove it, you will need to:

1) remove the main feed from the oil tank, and plug it off
2) remove the pump and it's drive gear from the manifold. (need a block-off plate)
3) remove the small hoses from the manifold, and block off the nipples.


YOU MUST LEAVE THE OIL TANK IN THE HULL AND HOOKED TO THE LOWER HALF OF THE ENGINE! the oil tank keeps your rotary valve gears lubed. if you remove the tank, they will die in a very short time.
 
That's up to you... but the seadoo oil injection is dam near bullet proof if maintained.

You need to change the filter every 2 years. You need to change the small oil hoses every few years, and make sure it's adjusted properly.

If you spend 10 minutes inspecting the oil system twice a year, (For broken, and leaking hoses) and 30 minutes replacing the above parts every other year... you will never have an issue. 99% of the time... when we see some one saying that the oil injection died on their ski... it's because it has been neglected for a long time.

OK... with that said... if you want to remove it, you will need to:

1) remove the main feed from the oil tank, and plug it off
2) remove the pump and it's drive gear from the manifold. (need a block-off plate)
3) remove the small hoses from the manifold, and block off the nipples.


YOU MUST LEAVE THE OIL TANK IN THE HULL AND HOOKED TO THE LOWER HALF OF THE ENGINE! the oil tank keeps your rotary valve gears lubed. if you remove the tank, they will die in a very short time.

so, if I go to premix... I still have to keep oil in the oil tank? how often do you refil this oil tank?
 
I think I may just try and keep it oil injected... if the pumps are known to be good, then why not have it. And it does make things easy
 
As long as the pump is working correctly… all you have to do is, first set the engine idle speed. It should be around 1500 RPM in the water, and 3000 out of the water. (if it’s good, you don’t have to change it)

Next, on the front of the pump, there is a scribed mark on the face of the “Throttle” plate. (where the cable is hooked to) Adjust the cable length, until that scribe mark, is in line with the scribe mark on the body of the pump. That’s it. On most skis, and boats… I will use a inspection mirror to see the marks.

Just a word of advice… when the carbs are removed… the arm on the pump is spring loaded, and it will flip around from its normal, centered position. Most home mechanics will miss this, and the pump will supply max oil when this happens. (safe, but smoky) Make sure that the pump arm is moving with the throttle.


Along with that… I recommend doing a normal oil system maintenance.

Replace the inline filter
Replace the small hoses between the pump and the manifold
Check the injector nipples to see if they are open.
Check for any other leaks, and replace the defective part. (hoses, grommets, seals, etc)


You can get the filter, and the small hoses from your local dealer for a few $$$. (I like to use 1/8 tygon hose for the small hoses) Also, when you remove the small hoses, they are held in place with a crimp clamp. They are not needed. Just use a good, small zip-tie to hold them in place. It’s a low pressure system, so a jip-tie will hold it. With the small hoses off the manifold nipples… use a small stiff wire, and push it though the nipples to make sure they are clear. (If you have an engine that backfires, it will cook oil into the nipples)

OK… once the system is put back together… you need to bleed it be for the first run. Start with opening the screw, on the face of the pump, in-line with the main feed hose. That will let the oil flow, and purge any air in the filter. Once that’s done, start the engine, and let it idle. While it’s idling, hold the pump arm to the open position. This will quickly push the oil up the small hoses. You can watch it, pulse back and forth, until the oil fills the hoses. (this should only take 10 or 15 seconds) Don’t over heat the engine if you are running it out of the water. Also… it will start smoking a lot as the small hoses fill.

Once that’s done… you are ready to ride.
 
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