fuel valve question

[luckysaturn13]

I was redoing my fuel lines tonight and decided to clean the selector valve. I accidently tore up the rubber on the inside. Its not the o ring on the shaft. Is this avaible? I dont really wanna fork the cash over for the whole assembley. Also for hose clamps I used ones from orileys. The wormgear automotive type. Will they cause any problems?
thanks

 

[Bills86e]

Fuel selector valves are fairly cheap. You could put a Y connector so gas would be sucked from both bafel tube lines. Its not necessary to turn off the fuel valve. I only
turn off if I am serviceing the engine. Its a Bell or Whistle item.

 

[greyrider]

also - you will be fine with those clamps - hopefully stainless

good luck

 

[shakedown]

If I were you I would buy a new valve, $28. on the parts link on this page. or you could bypass it with a Y-conector like Bills86e said. you dont want to take the chance of using the same valve, or you might suck air and cause a lean condition and that would not be good.

 

[seadooya]

You could put a Y connector so gas would be sucked from both bafel tube linesturn off if I am serviceing the engine. Its a .

I dont recommend this. Reason being, when your tank runs low enough, that the "ON" line is empty, your fuel system then will be pulling air, canceling out the "RES" line.

That "gasket" your referring to is not needed, the fuel selector has a "notch" to align it correctly with the opening in the fiberglass. The selector may be sloppy, but not that much were it will not perform properly....switching from on/res....:cheers:

 

[luckysaturn13]

i used stainless clamps. I might use a y fitting just for testing the bike to get it running then switch to the other. It seemed like since it didnt have that rubber down inside it it allows the air to come out both res and main. Im guessing the rubber helps control the flow inside the valve between the shaft and the housing. I wish i could just get tthe rubber instead of the whole thingy.

 

[luckysaturn13]

its not one the o rings for bolting it up its the one at the very bottom of inside of the unit. also not the oring on the shaft.

 

[shakedown]

seadooya, your right about not being able to use the reserve gas in the tank when using a "Y" connector, and the rubber he was talking about was on the inside of the valve not the big rubber gasket that go's on with the washer and hex nut

 

[seadooya]

understood

If anything, take the fuel line from the "res" fitting to the filter, then filter to carb. You'll need to cap off the "on" fitting from tank, until you replace the bad selector.

 

[shakedown]

yes I :agree: , that would get you out of a bind

 

[luckysaturn13]

used on is 15 shipped new one is 28 ill prob just get the new one dont wanna risk getting a used gunked up one and be in the same boat again haha. does any one have a pic of the vts gauge on the hull on opposite side of the fuel cap? I think mine might be slightly broken but i cant find a pic anywhere

 

[luckysaturn13]

i went ahead and ordered one from the dealer. not to bad of a hit 25 and some change with no shipping cost..... I couldnt find it cheaper online or ebay. I found a used one for 15 shipped but figured if i tore it up cleaning it id be back where im at....