• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Fuel line change now won't start

Status
Not open for further replies.
D

Davidgsx

Member
Hey guys, did my fuel lines now she emit start, will fire if I add fuel the cylinders but won't start. I pulled the fuel supply hose from the carb and I can suck fuel out but it doesn't flow really, if that makes sense. Any tonight's? Also how do you guys bleed the lines?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I usually just keep putting fuel in the spark plug holes. Eventually it cranks after about 7 - 10 times.

Somebody on another post with this same issue talked about using a plastic bag over the carbs to fully choke it. Can't remember the specifics though.

Maybe they will chime in
 
Did you replace the pulse line? If it has a leak it won't pump the fuel to the carbs.
 
No, I did not, I did forget to put it on the first couple times then I found it, it was not gray so I did not do it, maybe I should???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I just went and did the pulse line for the heck of it. Going to give the starter and battery a break for a bit before trying again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi David,

I may have more questions than answers, but I'll see if I can help. First of all good quality cable ties are fine, personally I have a mix of both, cable ties where the connections are more or less permanent, and stainless clamps at places like the carb. connections.

The first thing I would suggest is to go back and check your work, it's easy to get the return line and supply line mixed up. Also check the "O" ring in the fuel seperator/fuel filter. Also I have not had a lot of success cleaning the fuel control valve, I would suggest for $20.00 or so just replace it. When you change the lines it usually stirs up debris, so it's important to go through the carbs. you may get lucky and only need to clean the carb. fuel filters. You can try priming the motor by pouring a little premix down each cylinder, but I have found all you usually need to do it use the choke to get fuel flowing.

Lou
 
Weird, plugs are coming out wet, I have 120 psi in both cylinders, I have spark. I will say for full disclosure that I did replace the rotary cover as the one I bought had a set of bad threads. While I was there I removed and lubed the rotary valve but I marked it so the timing should be fine. I so don't want to take it part again!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
120psi, is not good, you're right on the verge of a rebuild. However 120 should start on the trailer, maybe not in the water. If the plugs are wet see if you're getting spark.

Lou
 
I know you don't want to hear this but since you appear to be getting fuel and spark, I would suspect a timing issue probably the rotary valve.

Ideally compression should be 150psi, 135-140 is good, 125-135 just O.K., 120 and below time for a rebuild. I would suggest you take compression again with a know good gauge, cold engine, throttle open.

Lou
 
Thanks Lou, after your post I got a little depressed, I'm out having a beer. I'll use a know good gauge and if it really only has 120 then I'm in the market for a motor. I'll get over it, my biggest problem is alignment tool


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So I still think there is a problem in the fuel system and before I invest anymore money in this money pit I would like to solve my problem, my question is will the motor run at 125 in both cylinders, if so I'm thinking of taking a one of my motorcycle desert tanks hanging it from the ceiling joist and running a clear hose straight to the carbs, if it runs that way I can go from there.
I'm not big on half ass as I have my kids on these I just want to solve the problem before I invest in a new motor


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It will run out of water with 125 psi. Just not sure if it will under load (in the water). I had same problem when I did my lines. I had reserve and (on) gas lines switched at fuel selector. Also, if you replaced lines and didn't pull carbs to clean the filters inside carbs are probably clogged with debris.
 
Got a pressure tester? You could test sections of the system till you find where it is sucking air. It ran before you changed lines? Did one at a time? The selector valve is turned on? When my system is dry of gas I put premix in the air box and crack open the throttle when winding starter. It fires and runs a little while. enough to get it sucking gas to carb. You crack carb open and clean internal filter? Might be packed tight with gunk. What were the lines like you took off? Lot's of green gunk? Could be clogging the carb and filter.
 
I don't think you have a timing issue since it fires for a second or 2 when you put gas in the cylinder holes.

I like you think the issue is in the fuel system. It is either stopped up somewhere or not primed.

Did you change the fuel lines because of an issue ??? Hesitation ?? or What ???
 
Since it is not cranking at this time anyway. I would clean the carbs. Especially the little filers in them. Also clean the fuel selector switch.
 
I cleaned fuel selector switch, is there a write up on the carbs or should I search you tube


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

1
1995 Seadoo Gtx Fuel System Questions
2
Replies
26
Views
784
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
D
1995 GTX Won't Rev Out
Replies
3
Views
257
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
X
02 RX DI crank no start - HELP
Replies
0
Views
306
XPLORx4
X
G
97 GTS runs then dies
Replies
15
Views
482
BrianMoore
B
A
94 GTX only starts with throttle open and fuel sprayed into carbs
Replies
8
Views
243
Alexh886
A
Back
Top