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Fuel Gage Baffle Question

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fabriccarolina

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Hi,
I'm getting ready to get back to work on my two 96 GTI's. Both have the gray fuel lines and I'm replacing them along with the fuel floats because my fuel light stays on and the gage is does not work on either one. My question is this, how can I find out of the fuse is working or not in the baffle? I don't really want to tear into the baffle, remove the fuse and solder the connection and then do plastic surgery. I guess I'm being lazy. I've got a multi meter just would like to have some direction.
Thanks in advance!
John
http://www.fabriccarolina.com
 
Fuel Float

John, I just went though this myself so I can help you. The best thing to do is to remove the baffle. With the baffle in your hand connect a ohm meter to the two wires on the connector, with the float at the bottom you should read 89-90 ohms as you tilt the baffle and the float slides to the top the ohms should go do. If it does, your problem is the float and just go to a Seadoo dealer and pickup a p/n 295-500-438 float. If the reading does not change then either replace baffle or tear into that one and jump the fuse.

Charlie
 
I thought it was hard to do, but I did it myself in an hour! The hard part was getting the baffle out from the tank. Once it's out, use a dremel to cut the plastic, brdige the fuse, and check it (I hooked it up to the plug and my fuel gauge came to life). Once you know it works, use a soldering iron to melt the piece back on to the baffle.

Mine baffle was a little different than the one in the pictures on the post here, but play around with it and you'll get it. Very easy to do. I would not hesitate to do it again. If anyone around Phoenix needs help, I would be glad to help them through it person ( a case of beer always helps...)
 
Sometimes, from jumping waves, the clip-in bafel bottom falls out and the
float can fall out to the bottom of the tank. Pull it and see.
 
first step is to isolate the problem, most likely it is the sensor but check the gauge first. disconnect the 2 plug connector (pink and pink/black I think on that model) at the fuel baffle and put a jumper between the leads, the fuel gauge should read full. if it does, the problem is in the baffle. next, measure the resistance between the leads of the baffle, is it's 90 ohms, your float has sunk and can be replaced with a new one cheaply. if it's an open circuit, either the magnets fell out or there is a problem with the board(F1 fuse). pulling the baffle is pretty simple, make sure to mark the lines, should take about 20 minutes on your GTI.
 
ohm reading doean't change on my fuel baffle

ski-d00 said:
first step is to isolate the problem, most likely it is the sensor but check the gauge first. disconnect the 2 plug connector (pink and pink/black I think on that model) at the fuel baffle and put a jumper between the leads, the fuel gauge should read full. if it does, the problem is in the baffle. next, measure the resistance between the leads of the baffle, is it's 90 ohms, your float has sunk and can be replaced with a new one cheaply. if it's an open circuit, either the magnets fell out or there is a problem with the board(F1 fuse). pulling the baffle is pretty simple, make sure to mark the lines, should take about 20 minutes on your GTI.
Click to expand...

The reading does not change when I connect my ohm meter. I'm trying to make sure I understand this. When my meter is turned on, it simply reads 1. When I connect to the leads on the baffle, the meter stays at 1. I have a new fuel float in it....SO I assume its the F1 fuse? I appreciate every ones help, can someone clarify about the simple 1 reading on my meter. Open circuit?
Thanks
 
make sure your meter is set on resistance, (ohms symbol), touch the leads together and it should go to 0. The 1 your seeing probably means open circuit. You can also squeeze the leads with each hand and measure the resistance across your body to check.

Did you put a jumper wire on the gauge side of the connector to make your gauge reads full?
 
Jumper Wire Question

I ran the jumper wire and when I get the two beeps, I see nothing on the gauge. Does the 96 GTi have to be cranked or anything to get a reading? The reason I ask is that the low fuel light always burned when the motor was running last year, but I can't get it to light by just running the jumper. Any thoughts?
 
Magnet

check to see if the magnet is still in the float i had the magnet fall out of the float and it would read empty all the time i pulled the baffel and took the end off and got the magnet and melted the magnet into the float no problems since.
 
My magnet fell off too. How did you melt it back on? I am not very fond of holding a flame or heat to something that has been soaking in gas for years! Do you think a type of permatex would work?
 
I actually went ahead and melted the zip tie. I just did it in a secure place in case the gas had not vaporized yet. Can not wait to see if that was all it needed to be fixed!
 
Magnet

Hello. My magnet fell off and i see where the where it was previously glued but I don't know which way to put it back in. Does the float go back in with the magnet on the top(closer to the top of the gas tank) or bottom?
 
Baffle...

fabriccarolina said:
Hi,
I'm getting ready to get back to work on my two 96 GTI's. Both have the gray fuel lines and I'm replacing them along with the fuel floats because my fuel light stays on and the gage is does not work on either one. My question is this, how can I find out of the fuse is working or not in the baffle? I don't really want to tear into the baffle, remove the fuse and solder the connection and then do plastic surgery. I guess I'm being lazy. I've got a multi meter just would like to have some direction.
Thanks in advance!
John
http://www.fabriccarolina.com
Click to expand...

John, first... the light is for low oil, not for gas. You have a float sensor in your oil tank, you'll notice the wires coming from the top of the tank, that's where you get the signal to the light. If your premix now and not keeping much oil in the tank, either add oil or disconnect and jumper the wires. Once you do that, you'll have to keep a close eye on your oil level.

Your fuel baffle?... There are two checks you want to make. The first is the easy one. At the baffle, disconnect the wire plug. Get a short piece of wire (about 3") and strip both ends back. Now, make a "U" with the wire and jumper across the two poles of the plug leading back to the fuel gage. Now, push your start button or power up your electronics with your lanyard. The gas gage should go to "Full". If it did not go to full, you might have a different problem. Also, if you don't see the gage move, try to move the wire jumper around to make sure you grounded it out well. Try again.

If it works, then your best bet is to pull the fuel baffle. The skis are usually designed to remove the baffle pretty easy. I think on your model, the tank is up front and you'll need to open the storage area and pull your bin out. The baffle should be right there. Once you remove the baffle, you can see that the float slides up and down the tube. If so, set your multi-meter to ohms/continuity and put the probe leads in your plug connector. Now, with the fuel baffle upside down, your reading should be 0.00 and as you turn the baffle up and the float begins to ride down the slide, your readings will go up as the magnets pass over each signal device on the board. If you see no change in resistance or if you show no continuity, then your F1 fuse is bad and will need to be by-passed. This really is no big deal if you got the solder gun and some zip ties. The baffle isn't air tight anyway. Fuel is already present in that area under normal operation so if it's not perfect, it's no big deal.:cheers:
 
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