First time in a 4tech (supercharged), always had 2 strokes seadoos, now what?

[brobertov8]

Hello Folks,

Just bought my first 4tech today, it´s a '04 GTX Supercharged 185hp.

Could you guys please send some tips and if possible, send some answers?

1. Which oil should I use on the engine and on the propeler, and which interval of change on both? This ski has now 76hours.

2. Where can I find the software and the hardware (can bus) to read ECU, clear error codes, etc...? Is there any "less expensive" solution?

3. Due the hours use (close to 100hours) They told me soon probably I will have to revise the supercharger, and replace the wear parts. Is that correct and if yes, is there any kit for this?

4. Which type of upgrades do we have to implement on this engine available in the marketing? Filter, performance chip, pulleys for psi improvment?

5. Are these engines reliable?


Any tip or answer would be very appreciated.

thanks,

 

[lamajama]

Unless you have a 100% iron clad guarantee that the SC has
been rebuilt get that done immediately before riding. This forum has a service that will so this for you
plus supply the kit. Well worth the labor cost to have it done 100% right.

I have the same year myself. I use the BRP oil myself but there
are numerous threads here on alternative oils to use

 

[Coastiejoe]

SC probably has ceramic washers. Rebuild it now as they fail and can destroy your engine. The engine is very proven. I own both the 155 and the 255 and love them both.


Repairing and selling iPads, iPhones and Mini iPads.

 

[KK40384]

1. Either use the BRP XPS oil got the SC 4 strokes or any NON SYNTHETIC motorcycle oil. Oil should be changed every season or roughly 25hrs of run time. The synthetic oil will cause premature wear to the SC washers which is never a good thing. I'm not sure if the older 4tecs have grease or lube in the nose cone of the pump.

2 Candoo

3. Supercharger should be rebuilt every 2 years or 100 hrs. Unless you have written proof (work order) that the SC was recently rebuilt stop riding it and rebuild the SC. Those came with the ceramic washers which fail. That's no good. Get it rebuilt ASAP.

4. The 185 is a little bit on the weaker side of upgrades. There's a few basic bolt ons you can do to make it perform better like intake and free flow exhaust (I have a video on how to make your own). There's no pulleys to upgrade as the SC is gear driven off the back of the engine.

5. These engine are proven to be reliable. However they require some maintenance to keep them running in top shape. If you don't keep up with it (mainly oil changes and SC service) it will kill itself fast.

 

[brobertov8]

Hi Folks, Lamajama, CostieJoe, KK40384,

Thanks for your reply and the infos.

Previous owner told me he changed the washers when it had 50hours. If I remove the supercharger for an inspection, can I check that?

I found some oil in the hull today and got worry about. After when out of water, I found the oil cap was not completely screwed, so some oil escaped there.

I will buy CANDOO as described, thanks.

Thanks about oil info, I will buy it and change it. Does it have oil filter?

KK40384, where can I find your videos? I will check for upgrade it.

A last question:
Dont know why, but at 6000rpm and above, it is flashing the warning light... under 5800 no problem. Due the oil leak I described above, the oil indicator is indicating which is missing half liter. Maybe would this be the reason of the warning flashing light above 6000rpm?

Any help like always, will be appreciated!

Thanks,

 

[brobertov8]

About the oil level, just read right now which the full level is in the middle of the bend, is that correct?
If yes, my engine is in full level of oil.

Could be the warning light flashining a sensor problem?

Thanks

 

[lamajama]

Could very well be. Those sensors are notorious for crapping out. I keep 1 of each in my toolbox (they have a
front and rear sensor). They are around $25-$30 each.

 

[brobertov8]

Could very well be. Those sensors are notorious for crapping out. I keep 1 of each in my toolbox (they have a
front and rear sensor). They are around $25-$30 each.

I will try that. The vendor told there is only one in my engine, is he correct?

I read also which these oil sensor erros are not stored in the ecu error codes, do you know if this is true?

thanks

 

[Coastiejoe]

If the engine is over-full on a 4-tech engine the engine will run at a decreased performance and it can trip sensors depending on how over-full it is.

 

[lamajama]

I will try that. The vendor told there is only one in my engine, is he correct?

I read also which these oil sensor erros are not stored in the ecu error codes, do you know if this is true?

thanks

No there are 2 sensors - one at the front (420256885) and on at the rear of the engine (420856538). They should know that.

As far as I know any error codes - and this error will show on your seadoo display as "oil" - will remain inside the brain so when you connect a Candoo you would see it - but I may be incorrect on this.

 

[brobertov8]

joe, I checked is about half liter less. Could be the reason?
thanks

 

[brobertov8]

No there are 2 sensors - one at the front (420256885) and on at the rear of the engine (420856538). They should know that.

As far as I know any error codes - and this error will show on your seadoo display as "oil" - will remain inside the brain so when you connect a Candoo you would see it - but I may be incorrect on this.

Lamajama, thanks the complete info you sent about the sensors.

About the error, did not show in the display "oil error"..... in the display everthing normal... only the "Warning light" in red (!) flashes above 6000rpm..... but I just dont know why!

 

[KK40384]

Here's the videos on youtube that might help you.

[youtube]knGyZvhz1G8[/youtube]

[youtube]rcm35HSHJqM[/youtube]

 

[brobertov8]

KK40384, Thanks for the videos, I will watch them at home.

--

Please, someone can tell me if these are the famous “washers” to check in the supercharger?

I just want to remove it and check if they are ceramic or stell. Is it easy to see and detect this?

Image Attached.


Regards,

 

[Tytan]

No, those are the spring washers that apply tension to the gear.

The ones to check are the two slip washers one on each side of the gear the ceramics have a green hue to them some rebuild kits had shiney gold washers and the newest kits have dull gray washers.

 

[brobertov8]

No, those are the spring washers that apply tension to the gear.

The ones to check are the two slip washers one on each side of the gear the ceramics have a green hue to them some rebuild kits had shiney gold washers and the newest kits have dull gray washers.

Are these ones (image attached)?
Thanks

 

[JoeZ]

That is correct.

 

[brobertov8]

That is correct.

Thank You

I will remove the SC on the weekend and will check... If it is steel, I will at least know it will work until 100hours (ski has now 76hours)

 

[glajos42]

Did you replace the oil pressure switches? Either way did the flashing light go away on the ski? I am going through the same issue on mine and I am also a newbie to the 4-tec.

 

[brobertov8]

Did you replace the oil pressure switches? Either way did the flashing light go away on the ski? I am going through the same issue on mine and I am also a newbie to the 4-tec.

Not yet, I will test it again on the weekend, and let you know about.

 

[brobertov8]

Not yet, I will test it again on the weekend, and let you know about.

Hello Glajos and All,

Just tested it today and the issue persists.
Above around 6000rpm the warning light keep flashing but I don´t see the reason.
There is no error code and the seadoo keeps running good (did not go into "safe mode").

Could be really the oil pressure sensor (there are two, correct)?

Thanks,
Bruno

 

[brobertov8]

No, those are the spring washers that apply tension to the gear.

The ones to check are the two slip washers one on each side of the gear the ceramics have a green hue to them some rebuild kits had shiney gold washers and the newest kits have dull gray washers.

Hi Tytan and Folks,

Just removed the SC today, isn´t looking bad!! Looks like there are not ceramic washer, could you guys help to insure that?

Pictures attached.

Thanks

 

[Tytan]

Hi Tytan and Folks,

Just removed the SC today, isn´t looking bad!! Looks like there are not ceramic washer, could you guys help to insure that?

Pictures attached.

Thanks

View attachment 26111View attachment 26112View attachment 26113View attachment 26114View attachment 26115

Pictures are a little blurry to me that looks like an original untouched charger with ceramics. The washers have a green hue to them, it has the old style holding collar for the wrench and the end nut looks untouched by a wrench. If it was mine it would get a full rebuild then you know what you have. If it grenades a charger rebuild will be cheap compared to the damage ceramic washer pieces can do. For comparison these pics are the ceramics out of my 04 RXP.

 

[KK40384]

Pretty sure those are ceramics from what I can tell.

 

[AircraftDoc]

Check the part number on the SC. You might not want to rebuild the early models. If you rebuild for $425 with out up grades, you will get 100 hrs till the next rebuild. If you buy the new rolled over part number, beefed up OEM for $866, you get 200 hrs till rebuild. And only have to remove and install once.