First time gelcoting and its a big one

[NickCawks]

I have a GTi hull with bottom damage that I was going to scrap. Maybe I will use it as a Guinea pig to test a few products and their durability.

That would be a great use of a scrap hull. I am sure the forums would appreciate a break down of these kinds of products.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ever...MIpuOa3KPQ1wIVAQxpCh10-A4JEAQYBSABEgIn8fD_BwE

This seems reasonably priced and is available on Amazon so I could get it quickly. Does anyone have any experience using this stuff? I'm definitely down to give it a try.

 

[NickCawks]

You can buy the Total Boat Epoxy Fairing Compound from Jamestown Distributors. It is a 2 part Epoxy Filler.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/mobileportal/show_product.do?pid=97775

I did actually notice this product is also on Amazon as well at a comparable price.

Have you had experience using this? is it easy to use?

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

Evercoat Glass is Polyester. My guy says No Bueno below the waterline.

I have never used anything but Epoxy below the waterline.

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

Have you had experience using this? is it easy to use?

As easy as any 2 part “pasty” material. I think it’s easier than, say, Bondo because you mix equal portions (if I remember correctly). Harder to sand than poly or vinylester. But it’s Epoxy.

 

[NickCawks]

well if it is tried and true that is what I will go with.

 

[GGuillot]

I'll add that I'm going through this gelcoat process restoring my 97' GTX. I spent months doing the bottom and I'm just getting heavy into sanding the topside for gelcoat. I did change the hunter green to a black, topside will remain white. If you change colors, it's tough, by the time I'd get the black smooth it would go through and expose the green, especially edges/corners.

Lessons learned, first, drill out the rivets and take off the rub rail, much easier to work with, replacement stainless rivets will run about $25. I had some minor gouging in the center near the bow and heavy scratches across the bottom of the hull, I repaired by die grinding out then filling with marine tex epoxy. I was worried about the gelcoat adhering, but no problems, you must clean the repair afterward when it has dried then sand it. I sanded the entire bottom with 80 - 100 grit then applied the gelcoat, you don't want it too smooth, I wouldn't go higher than 140-150. Use acetone regularly when prepping repairs and before applying gelcoat.

I used the brushable gelcoat by FGCI coatings and rolled it on, became the economical way to apply. I had to do 3-4 coats mixing about a pint at time. You only have about 10-15 minutes to get it applied depending on temp, so do sections, I broke it down to 3 parts, bow, middle, then stern.

Wet sand with 320 or 400, then progress to 1000 grit, then 1500, then 2000. Finalizing I used the 3M products, compound, glaze, then wax.

Lot's of work, you'll spend a lot of time sanding and sanding.

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

I used the brushable gelcoat by FGCI coatings and rolled it on, became the economical way to apply. I had to do 3-4 coats mixing about a pint at time.

How did the brushable work out? Did brush, roll, roll and tip?

I have some repairs in the upper part of my ski. Last couple of times, I used a PreVal Sprayer and was not that happy. I used 3 coats and there was so much orange peel that some got sanded off by the time I got the shine back.

So I have seen the brushable at FGCI, but never tried it.

Sorry to the OP, not meant as a hijack. Thought this would be of interest to posters and followers if this thread.

 

[GGuillot]

I tried the hand brush first and found that at $4-5 a pop it was going to get expensive doing a pint at a time, which is all you can do mixing and applying before it starts to gel up. You've only have about 10 minutes once you mix in the catalyst. I went with the small 4 inch rollers, about $10 for a pack of 6, and disposable plastic trays for about $1 a pop. Finally got the agitating, measuring and mixing down. I was unsuccessful at first, it was going on too thin (sanding through afterward) even when I switched and rolled a coat over it. Back to square one again, I rolled it on thick as I could with about 3 coats and the results improved on the sanding/finishing stage. Sanding and finishing with 120 is a little too aggressive, leaves deeper scratches that run the risk of sanding through trying to remove. So I started wet sanding with 320 and 400, then moved to the finer grits. I went through almost 2 gallons of black, but safe to say I wasted almost a gallon before I starting getting things right. Go on thick, several coats, not thin, which seems to be difficult with brushable gelcoat. The brushable is rougher because of brush marks left behind when it drys compared to spraying, so it requires deeper sanding. I highly recommend to only do a pint at a time, you don't have a lot of time to mix and apply much more per setting.

One more thing, life got easier getting into the final sanding once I picked up a 2 inch air sander from Habor Freight. I'm on top side about to apply the white gelcoat, waiting on a warmer day in the 70's. I'm happy with the results on the bottom side, but lots of work, I'll post some pics soon.

 

[digital sol]

I tried the hand brush first and found that at $4-5 a pop it was going to get expensive doing a pint at a time, which is all you can do mixing and applying before it starts to gel up. You've only have about 10 minutes once you mix in the catalyst. I went with the small 4 inch rollers, about $10 for a pack of 6, and disposable plastic trays for about $1 a pop. Finally got the agitating, measuring and mixing down. I was unsuccessful at first, it was going on too thin (sanding through afterward) even when I switched and rolled a coat over it. Back to square one again, I rolled it on thick as I could with about 3 coats and the results improved on the sanding/finishing stage. Sanding and finishing with 120 is a little too aggressive, leaves deeper scratches that run the risk of sanding through trying to remove. So I started wet sanding with 320 and 400, then moved to the finer grits. I went through almost 2 gallons of black, but safe to say I wasted almost a gallon before I starting getting things right. Go on thick, several coats, not thin, which seems to be difficult with brushable gelcoat. The brushable is rougher because of brush marks left behind when it drys compared to spraying, so it requires deeper sanding. I highly recommend to only do a pint at a time, you don't have a lot of time to mix and apply much more per setting.

One more thing, life got easier getting into the final sanding once I picked up a 2 inch air sander from Habor Freight. I'm on top side about to apply the white gelcoat, waiting on a warmer day in the 70's. I'm happy with the results on the bottom side, but lots of work, I'll post some pics soon.

Consider trying to spray it with a HF gun and large tip such as the primer tip?

Sorry hope I am not thread jacking I can certainly start a new thread, lots of opinions and voices on this subject but not a lot of real time experiences from what I have found yet.

 

[NickCawks]

Sorry to the OP, not meant as a hijack. Thought this would be of interest to posters and followers if this thread.

I am also interested.

I tried the hand brush first and found that at $4-5 a pop it was going to get expensive doing a pint at a time, which is all you can do mixing and applying before it starts to gel up. You've only have about 10 minutes once you mix in the catalyst. I went with the small 4 inch rollers, about $10 for a pack of 6, and disposable plastic trays for about $1 a pop. Finally got the agitating, measuring and mixing down. I was unsuccessful at first, it was going on too thin (sanding through afterward) even when I switched and rolled a coat over it. Back to square one again, I rolled it on thick as I could with about 3 coats and the results improved on the sanding/finishing stage. Sanding and finishing with 120 is a little too aggressive, leaves deeper scratches that run the risk of sanding through trying to remove. So I started wet sanding with 320 and 400, then moved to the finer grits. I went through almost 2 gallons of black, but safe to say I wasted almost a gallon before I starting getting things right. Go on thick, several coats, not thin, which seems to be difficult with brushable gelcoat. The brushable is rougher because of brush marks left behind when it drys compared to spraying, so it requires deeper sanding. I highly recommend to only do a pint at a time, you don't have a lot of time to mix and apply much more per setting.

Thank you so much for all of that great information! that helped clarify some of the details and really solidified my decision to roll on the gelcote because in my mind I thought it would be easier than brushing.

It also sounds like it made it a lot more difficult that you changed colors. Hopefully, things will be a bit easier for me because I'm not changing color. Especially because i only have a quart of gelcote :/

 

[GGuillot]

I am also interested.



Thank you so much for all of that great information! that helped clarify some of the details and really solidified my decision to roll on the gelcote because in my mind I thought it would be easier than brushing.

It also sounds like it made it a lot more difficult that you changed colors. Hopefully, things will be a bit easier for me because I'm not changing color. Especially because i only have a quart of gelcote :/

Couple pics before and after.

 

[NickCawks]

Only managed to get another couple of hours of sanding in with the weather and thanksgiving. I am thankful that the weather has taken a change for the better. It should be sunny and decent enough to get out and do some sanding the next couple of days. Just waiting for it to warm up now.

Heres where I am at currently:


On the Subject of the fairing compound. I am having trouble finding a place I can get the total boat from in a reasonable amount of time without having to pay too much for shipping. I'm thinking I might just run over to the local store and pick up the West System.

I was wondering if any of you have any experience with the West System. In particular is there any reason I should AVOID this product?

 

[mikidymac]

West System is great stuff. No reason to avoid it at all.

 

[soccerdad]

Evercoat Glass is Polyester. My guy says No Bueno below the waterline.

I have never used anything but Epoxy below the waterline.

Ummm. Gelcote is almost always polyester. Surfboards, boats, etc use tons of polyester. Polyester is not as strong as epoxy, but it is good for below waterline. Seadoo uses polyester gelcote.

 

[etemplet]

If I spray this stuff on, how much sanding will I need to do?

 

[GGuillot]

If I spray this stuff on, how much sanding will I need to do?

The texture it leaves will determine that, regardless count on a fair amount of sanding when messing with Gelcoat. Once you mix in the MEKP you'll have about 10-12 minutes to spray it on before it starts to gel up. The potential trashing of the spray gun after one use once it gels is what stopped me from spraying, plus the controlling of overspray, the stuff is nasty. I rolled it on...no more than a pint at a time, coated about 3-4 times.