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exhaust needs welding

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fonthillhdtv

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The boat i'm looking to buy the dealer says it needs the exhaust welded. is this a common problem on 98 seadoo challengers. the dealer wants 300.00 dollars for this fix- reasonable? What would happen if i didn't fix this, would it leak wateer or exhaust fumes ? would it effect performance. Is it something i should be concerned about
 
Is probably the exhaust plugs on the tune pipe. Do not pay the dealer $300 for that and yes is common on the old seadoos. Bellow you can see what they look like.

You can not use the boat like that. Exhaust will leak water in to the engine compartment.

There is a person here that will weld the caps for you for $20 or $30 plus shipping. You will need to take it out and get new gaskets from the dealer.
 

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My cheap fix which has held up for 2 seasons now. Drill that hole out, tap it, and plug it with a short stainless bolt. Use JB weld as "lock-tite" then fill in the indentation inside the muffler with more JB.
 
This problem has happened on every single seadoo that I have owned, and on every single one, I have done the exact same thing that Scooper mentioned, and it has never let me down. IF you are worried about it, those pipes sell for about 70 bucks on ebay all the time, just pick a used one up.
 
It is a really common problem, especially in saltwater engines where the salt water sits in there after use. Even if rinsed out and run on the hose, you will still have corrosive water sitting in the bottom, and it puddles in those indentations (which is why I filled them in with the epoxy).

I even took the pipe off early this year to verify that the epoxy was still holding and tapped it with a screwdriver to make sure it wasn't coming loose. It was holding very tight. This was on my XP.

Make sure to clean it down to the metal and leave it rough to grab the epoxy.

Then on my boat, I put a new engine in last fall and went ahead and epoxied those lower dimples just to keep the problem from happening later on.
 
I don't remember. Basically, drill the hole out in the center of the corrosion. Then keep drilling bigger and bigger until you get some clean metal where the threads will be.

I think i ended up using 3/8 X 1" stainless bolts. But if you drill for a 3/8" bolt and your hole is dirty all the way through with corrosion, you may have to go up to a 1/2" or something. (you do have access to the correct drill sizes for tapping? If not ask, I have them all for you).
 
yah i have a complete tap and die set that should not be a problem I think I will push the guy selling the boat to pay for the welding repair . the other things they came up with at the dealer listed below .the wear rings i kind of expected to have to replace on a 10 year old boat . the rest of the stuff seems to be cosmetic. and will have to wait till the budget allows
204-1201-30 shaft protector -14.98
271-0002-90- wear ring -2@64.99-129.88
271-0005-17 ring - 2.99
274-203395 amber mudule - 5.99
278-0015-86 buzzer -assy - 78.99 no idea what this is
293-6500-67 clamp - 3.95
420-9315-03 exhaust gasket -14.99
br8es ngk plugs 278-0006-09 - 23.96
204-0726-16 ski- shaft - 99.96
274-0001-69 washer brass - 79.98 no idea what this is
any idea on any of this stuff
 
204-1201-30 shaft protector -14.98 Dont need that

271-0002-90- wear ring -2@64.99-129.88 (Important but check it your self make sure the dealer is not traying to stick you.

271-0005-17 ring - 2.99 ??? No clue

274-203395 amber mudule - 5.99 ?? No clue

278-0015-86 buzzer -assy - 78.99 Is just the buzzer to alert you if the key is on or if boat is over heating. I think you can find that at Radio Shack and install your self. When you put the land jard on the boat do you hear a beep. If not then is probably bad. No big deal but is nice to have.

293-6500-67 clamp - 3.95 ?? BS

420-9315-03 exhaust gasket -14.90 This is probably the one that goes from the exhaust manifold to the tune pipe. You need this to fix the leak on the exhaust.

br8es ngk plugs 278-0006-09 - 23.96 Get it at any auto parts change it your self

204-0726-16 ski- shaft - 99.96 Is this the drive shaft. Is it bent or something, I cant imagine why they will put it here

274-0001-69 washer brass - 79.98 Thats probably the one that sits at the wide end of the tune pipe. You don’t need it. Just use a good high temp RTV from auto parts. Make sure to clean the pipe good before appalling.
 
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204-0726-16 ski- shaft - 99.96 Is this the drive shaft. Is it bent or something, I cant imagine why they will put it here
Ifigured out that this was the pop up wake board/ski post in the back deck
 
I would have it welded, but not for $300. I did all of mine when I had the engines out. Took 30 min to do all of them, and I know they're done right. Not worried about JBWeld or a screw coming out and then leaking water into the boat or having to shut down the engine.
 
What are the symptoms and how do you know if your tuned pipe needs to be welded? If it leaks from the inside how can you tell? it sounds like a dumb question but my engine sounds very strange and the exhaust sounds strange as well.
 
There are 4 plugs in the purple exhaust pipe they are like sacrificial meaning they are meant to give with temperature/moisture variations and are like basically a freeze plug. They have over time a tedency to corrode but are repairable by welding a new plug in.
If your comparing one engine with another while both running (twin 85's?) and one sounds different I would check compression in the engine in question.
You may also have a problem with where the purple head pipe connects to the exhaust, there is a coupler bracket(collar clamp) that has a brass washer (about 4.5 in. diameter)between the two that maybe unseated or clamp has came loose. Check for oily carbon blowby ,This would cause wierd noises and make it not run smooth also.
You may have a bad gasket somewhere (check for leaks), check waterbox and resonater, the rubber hose could of came loose , these are common exhaust issues but, east fixes. Process of elimination.
But not a dumb question by no means. But pretty hard to just crack a pipe , but it does happen. But I would nail down the issue before taking it out again ,you could cause further damage if ya run it that way. I'm sure the techs will chime in and help you out also.
 
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My compression is all good, as well as the clamp and brass washer. my problem is that my RPM's surge, it would run @6500 and then wouldnt go above 4000 at WOT. it has gotten worse and wont go above 3500-4000. new carb rebuild and even switched carbs with other engine,same thing! Pulse line is clean, cleaned fuel valves and switched them out, same thing! Pulled red wire on rectifier and even switched them , same thing! bypassed rev limiter, new fuel lines put in, clipped plug wires back same thing. engine runs good on land but in the water is a different story, and I noticed also the pee hole doesnt piss so well ( not like the other engine) I had the exhaust off (no restictions), tuned pipe has no restrictions (water or exhaust), while the engine was running I did notice the bottom half side of the tuned pipe was hot while the rest of the pipe was cool, even at the manafold end it was cool, help me I'm going crazy:ack:
 
I am pulling my tune pipe. One plug has a hole. I tried to find the plugs in the parts list but they are not shown. Do you know where to get them?
 
gasket for tuned pipe

Thanks for your help.

One more stupid question. My PWC is garage kept and like new. Do you normally have to replace the gaskets when removing the pipe? Or do they hold up when removed.
 
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