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Engine will only turn an inch in each direction.

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I had a rebuilt engine put into my 02 gtx rfi and the mechanic said he could only get it running on 1 cyl, he also removed the oil pump and said to just mix the oil with the gas. when i got the ski back it was brought to a dealer to take a look at and they couldnt fix it quick and said it would cost alot more for them to dig deeper into it to see what the problem is. to make this quick when i got the ski back they had removed the throttle body and left some other parts off, so i put everything back together and also hooked the oil pump system back up.

when i went to start the engine it wouldnt turn over. it was knock and move a bit not get stuck. when i try to manually turn the crank it will turn about an inch in each direction and thats all. i removed the head cover and intake as well as the H2O lines to see if there is water in the enginge but nothing is draining out.

any ideas what to do next?
 
I wouldn't do anything else, except call the mechanic who rebuilt the engine, this shouldn't be your problem. Have you paid the mechanic in full?

If that doesn't work my next call would be to a Lawyer.

Lou
 
no the mechanic was horrible. the ski actually belonged to my uncle and he brought it to this guy who was putting in this new rebuilt engine. but the guy had the ski for about 2 years before he did the work so my uncle told him to just get the engine in and give it back, he didn't pay all of it. my uncle then had the ski sit at his house for about a year before i got my hands on it. i tried last year to get it running and this is where i am at now.
 
O.K. so I guess your on your own. When you took the head off the engine, was there water in the engine, rust ? What did you see? Better yet could you post a picture?

Lou
 
also since you went to premix do you still have the oil tank in there and hoses going to the rotary gear or at least looped
 
YOU CANNOT GO PRE-MIX IN AN RFI!!!!!! (no-------No).

My guess the pistons are in BACKWARDS. More likely than NOT.
 
YOU CANNOT GO PRE-MIX IN AN RFI!!!!!! (no-------No).

My guess the pistons are in BACKWARDS. More likely than NOT.

You're right, I didn't even notice. So if he had it running on one cylinder, the engine probably locked up due to lack of lubrication.

Lou
 
i dont have it running with premix i put the oil pump back in and connected it all back up. the pistons and cylinders look good to me just a tiny bit of rust around the top rim but thats probably because i had the head cover off all winter. when i get a chance i will take a pic and post.

it isn't completely seized because i can turn the crank by hand and i see the pistons go up and down about an inch but thats all it will turn. so there is some movement.
 
It could be a bent Impeller, ect. I'd say split the cases and start from scratch. JMO
 
i dont have it running with premix i put the oil pump back in and connected it all back up. the pistons and cylinders look good to me just a tiny bit of rust around the top rim but thats probably because i had the head cover off all winter. when i get a chance i will take a pic and post.

it isn't completely seized because i can turn the crank by hand and i see the pistons go up and down about an inch but thats all it will turn. so there is some movement.

I think you said the "mechanic" had it running on one cylinder, was he running on premix or oil injection? It doesn't take long to seize a motor with no lubrication. Also if you can only turn the engine only 1" either direction it's either siezed or like Bill said the pistons are backwards.

When you hooked the oil injection back up did you bleed the system.

Like Bill said you could pull the pump, and drive shaft and see if the motor will turn over. Could be a bad crank, crank bearings, but we need to start somewhere.

Lou
 
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i did bleed the oil injection. how can i tell if the pistons are backwards?

next day i get that is nice out i will try to get the drive shaft and pump off to see if it will turn. i dont have a garage and it is supposed to be rainy the next few days.
 
There should be a small arrow etched into the top of the piston, the arrow should point to the exhaust port. I'm pretty sure thats correct, Bill is that right?

Lou

I just checked the manual, that is correct.

Lou
 
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If the engine was run without the oil injection very long then there is a possibility that damage was done to the rotary valve, valve shaft or gear. Damage to any of these will cause engine binding.
 
Might want to just pull the pump to make sure that isnt where the problem is, but likely its a bum motor that hack put in.
 
If you force the crank to turn it could be death of the piston(s) is why I suggest to remove & split the cases.
Here is most of what I know about why a piston such as yours might break off the rings and their ring lands and allow them to seperate from the pistons. The arrows have to point toward the exhaust ports. I also believe that mechanic is a novice or a "Hack" as the above experts.
First off, I usually see this type of ring land breakage on engines that are running too low of octane from the compression ratio they have, or there is a timing curve being utilized that does not retard the timing enough at WOT, or, when the engine was last bored and honed for an oversized set of pistons, one of a few mistakes could have been made. I am going to rule out #1 reason right now, It is the clearances between a hot expanded aluminum piston and a hot expanded rave valve guiotine paddle that is not properly cut back enough for the overbore size pistons that are now in use. Why rule it out? Because if that were the case here, the broken ring and ring land would be directly inline with the exhaust port.
#2 problem I will rule out now, is that the upper lip of the exhaust port was not properly champhered, or possibly never chamfered, and the top and/or bottom ring expanded enough to catch on the top of the exhaust ports as the pistons travelled upward past the top of those ports. Normally that would also show wear to the clyinder wall surface directly above the exhaust ports. It would look shiney and a bit worn without any cross hatch marks from a freshly honed clyinder boring and honing process to the naked eye. Not many can see this thru the Rave openings with the motor in the ski.
#3 possibility I am ruling out now is that the pistons were installed with their arrows pointing in the wrong direction and are 180* off of where they should be pointing, now placing the ring gaps on the opposite side of the cylinder walls where they can expand into the exhaust ports as the pistions rise to TDC. This action would pop off the ring land(s) directly abouve the rings in front of the exhaust ports. Sometimes, this only happens to one piston, before shortly thereafter breaking the second piston if both pistons were installed improperly, arrows facing away from the exhaust ports. This happens to novice engine rebuilders, and even experenced builders that normally work mostly on engines that have the ex ports on the opposite side of the clyinders, and without a thought, point the arrow in the wrong direction. It only takes about a few high rpm revoulations of the crankshaft before doing the dirty deed to the clyinders and pistons. This type failure rarely sees lake water, as it can happen when bleeding and priming the oil pump with the engine running in the driveway, or within the first few minutes of riding the watercraft. You might try unbolting the four bolts that hold the Rotary Valve Cover on and remove that to see it he droped a
bolt down the intake, and its in the RV.
 
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Bill makes a lot of sence, I guess thats the difference between an expert and a "shade tree mechanic", like me.

However you will still need to remove the pump in order to remove the engine.

If it were me, I would consider buying a new short block.

Lou
 
I'm going with #4...

The guy was a hack and put in another motor that was bunk and had a bad crank in the first place. for the bonus points...I bet one of the rods is bent. I bet it never ran.

Prob bought the motor from another "mechanic" that only turns wrenches left...off ebay.

Bill...I sure hope you have a 20 page seadoo "bible" from all your posts so you can just copy paste. I appreciate when you and Bill O go into detailed explanations, but thats a lot of typing. I started saving my posts so I can copy paste.
 
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I Think u mechanic dripped something in the motor there is so little clearance between the crank throws and the case any little debri in there will cause the motor not to spin
 
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