eletrical issues suck.....

[luckysaturn13]

bought a 94 xp right before winter from a guy who said it just quit running on the lake and wouldnt start back up. I winterized it then few weeks ago started on it. The battery was like 5 years old so i purchased a new agm one. i also fully rebuilt carbs and pop off tested them. Also replaced fuel selector switch and all fuel lines. Replaced fuel float and my gauge started working again. I cleaned out fuel and oil tanks and replaced with new fluids. Replaced fuel and oil filters. Added an anti rattle cone in the rear and changed out pump oil. I also changed out plugs. I primed lines threw a little pre mix in it and it wouldnt start seems to not be getting spark. Where should i start with trying to diagnose this? this is a 94 my vts i mounted up high and still functions fine. so i know it not a damaged vts messing things up.

thanks!

 

[Dr Honda]

If it were my ski... I would start by opening the electrical box, and disconnect the Black/red wire going between the CDI and the MPEM. Give it a crank, and look for a spark. If you get a spark... the MPEM is bad. (I bought a 95 XP with the same issue)

If you don't have a spark... then either your stator or CDI/coil is bad.

The stator can be checked with a meter.

Needless to say... before buying any parts... check over all the connections, and make sure the kill switch isn't stuck.

I'm betting the MPEM gave up.

 

[Bills86e]

OPen the grey box, one at a time clean & dielectric grease all connectors, fuses male & female ends, check ground. All wires on the ground lug are black. After looking in mpem fuse females for rust use air chuck to out any moisture before dg'ing.
Use a magnito plug testor connector to check the magnito pulse, lightingcoils & ground. An untrained tech may have damaged the connector with a probe or puntured/broke a wire in the loom. Bills86e

 

[luckysaturn13]

also it never buzzez from the buzzer im not sure if this would indicate anything. Im gonna try some of the suggestions tonight. Hopefully it will be an easy fix.

 

[luckysaturn13]

so is the mepm inside the electronic box? i also trimmed my plug wires 1/2 inch but no progress.

 

[luckysaturn13]

sea doo is the shizzy! thats sweet you have enough slack in eletrical lines to pull box above battery area a car would never have enough slack to do anything on anything eletrical.... any ways all fuzes are fine. not one spec of corrosion or nastyness at all. The only red black i see goes from the ignition modue and shoots out the eletrical box. The mepm has several red but not red with black stripe or vice versa. are you refering to a red wire with a black ending on it? I do how ever notice in section 07 sub section 06 (cdi and charging systems) that on the far right wire of the mepm its saying thats a black/red but when i am lookin at it it is only grey. this leaves the mepm and hits the ignition module. Is this the one i need? maybe i have an aftermarket mepm or something idk?
i disconnected the red black form the ignition module and tried it with no luck and i disconnected the grey with no luck. whats they best way to test the module and the coil?

also is the kill switch clicks when i press it so i dont beleve it is stuck. and it was having this problem before and after changing out the rubber button on the face of it.

 

[luckysaturn13]

Ok on page 07-01-5 of shop book its showing red off rectifire that goes into mepm and out to starter sole. It shows a yellow red from mepm to sole. It shows a black white to other side of the sole. A white from mepm that goes to cdi. A black that comes into mepm from kill switch . A black ground and a red purple that goes to gauge. So would the white one be the one I want to by pass to test mepm? Also for safety switch is it normally open or closed? Can I disconnect the black yellow to test?

 

[Dr Honda]

also it never buzzez from the buzzer im not sure if this would indicate anything. Im gonna try some of the suggestions tonight. Hopefully it will be an easy fix.

It can... but most likely, it meens you need a new buzzer.

You can get one from radioshack for $9.

 

[Dr Honda]

Ok on page 07-01-5 of shop book its showing red off rectifire that goes into mepm and out to starter sole. It shows a yellow red from mepm to sole. It shows a black white to other side of the sole. A white from mepm that goes to cdi. A black that comes into mepm from kill switch . A black ground and a red purple that goes to gauge. So would the white one be the one I want to by pass to test mepm? Also for safety switch is it normally open or closed? Can I disconnect the black yellow to test?

Scan the page so we can see what you are looking at.

There will be a wire going from the stator coil to the CDI. Some where along that wire, there will be a connection to the MPEM. (should be Black/red) Disconnect that wire, and check for a spark.

The safety switch is NO.

let us know what you find.

 

[seadooya]

Scan the page so we can see what you are looking at.

There will be a wire going from the stator coil to the CDI. Some where along that wire, there will be a connection to the MPEM. (should be Black/red) Disconnect that wire, and check for a spark.

The safety switch is NO.

let us know what you find.

Yup...locate the coil, and you'll see a black/red wire plugged to it. From there, you'll see that same wire branched off to a butt connector, unplug it and see if you got spark/fires up. If so, then you'll need to get new mpem.

 

[seadooya]

................................

 

[luckysaturn13]

the black red goes from the stator to the cdi box. There is however a white that goes from the stator to cdi and branches to mepm. It didnt spark with either one disconnected. I tried one at a time.

The black red is for the low speed generating coil.

The white is for the high speed generating coil.

The black red ohmed fine but the white one was off for ohm reference.

I ohmed all of the mepm and the black with ring terminal on one lead and yellow red on the other came out to 1.3 mega ohm its sposed to be between 150k to 500k so its deff off. all others tested fine.

The yellow red wire goes to the small post on bottom right of starter solinoid. What is its purpose? i will try to post wire chart here soon.

Does this mean my mepm and magneto is toast? Im thinking of changing magneto first because if i change mepm and bad magneto and frys mepm then ill have to buy a third. I guess if magneto dont fix it than its mepm and some one will get a great deal on a mag. lol

This all sucks lol

thanks.

ps what all stators will interchange?

 

[luckysaturn13]

look at bottom left of mpem the wire that goes to the bottom right of the solinoid is the one that ohmed tested wrong. whats its function? see the white one that connects to the stator and the mpem and cdi? thats the one i tried to disconnect but still no spark that is also one that i ohmed going to stator and it was a faulty test. could stator gone and took mepm with it?

 

[Dr Honda]

look at bottom left of mpem the wire that goes to the bottom right of the solinoid is the one that ohmed tested wrong. whats its function?

That wire is just feeding power to the solenoid coil. your starter button is controlling the ground. I wouldn't read too much into that yet... especially if you push the starter button, and it cranks.

see the white one that connects to the stator and the mpem and cdi? thats the one i tried to disconnect but still no spark that is also one that i ohmed going to stator and it was a faulty test. could stator gone and took mepm with it?

If you disconnect that white wire... you should get a spark. If you don't get a spark... then the coils, CDI or the ignition coil is bad.

 

[Dr Honda]

mine is considered the double coil system i think that is maybe were the red black wire changes

Yup. When I think XP... I think 720 or 800 engines. You got the 657 engine. Yes... since you have the 657, your colors are different.

with the magneto having the high speed generating coil test bad but the low speed testing fine should i replace both the igniting coil and lightning coil?

You only need to replace the oil that it is bad. Your "lighting" or generating coil has nothing to do with the ignition.

Any one know how to build the home version of bombarkier ignition tester pn 295 000 0008?

You can build it, but you need to be very good with electronics. That box generates a HV pulse to drive the CDI unit. It has a variable speed output at about 120~300 VAC. (to simulate the HV mag coil)

It does a few other things... but you can test at home with a regular multi-meter.

 

[luckysaturn13]

My high speed coil tested bad. which one is this?Would this cause no spark? When by passed moem there was no spark. My coil in electronic box tested fine. How test the cdi box with ohm meter? Didn't see ohm spec in manual for that just using bombar tool if some one had spec it would be great. Is there anything else I need to test? My good friend is an electronic engineer so I might have him build me a tester. I helped him move ha ha ha he owes me!

 

[luckysaturn13]

i think i found a cdi box for 20. im gonna try it out.