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Delrin wear ring

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BanOne

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Guys couple questions about this wear ring, ordered from SBT got it today and there is no lip on the end like i expect. called SBT and they said it is the right one. has anyone installed one of these? If there is no lip isn't there going to be an additional gap between the hull(neoprene seal) and the pump? In addition if there is no lip what sets the depth of the wear ring? i guess it will be flush with the pump housing.

Thanks for the help just want to ask questions before i go do this and realize there is a problem.

Doug
 
Yep... those ones suck. (sorry) They are known to not fit properly, some times.

Anyway... if it fits OK... the extra gap will be taken up with a neoprene seal.
 
Greaaaat. Thanks for the post Doc, by the way the tools arrived today thanks for the quick turn around, gonna try and push them out tomorrow.

Doug
 
It's outlined in the manual... but use the long skinny tool to push out both bearings, and the seal in one shot. Insert it in from the cone side... and push everything toward the seal end.

On the other tool... the side with the steps is to push in the bearings... and the side with the recess is for the seal. (Put a little grease on the rubber part of the seal)
 
Thanks again, got the prop off but working on the old wear ring killed me tonight by hand. Maybe I can convince the wife this is the reason to buy a new tool oh wait I bought an impeller tool and the bearing tools guess I back to doing it by hand (pun intended):cuss:
 
Got my tool set as well last night, thanks.

the tool that presses them in is however in 2 pieces, I cleaned off the loc-tite, and used super glue, seems to hold much better.

Got my new bearings and seal in last night, but the washer and thrust bearing don't come till today... so i couldn't finish building the pump last night... no worries though as my engine is shit anyway lol.
 
the tool that presses them in is however in 2 pieces, I cleaned off the loc-tite, and used super glue, seems to hold much better.

Sorry about that. I was going to use Green loc-tite, but the tube in the shop was solid. I figured the Red would cure... But I noticed on my tool that it was still soft.

I'm going to change it on the next batch.
 
not a real problem, long as it doesn't get lost.... any reason it's 2 pieces vs 1 solid? I can't believe how lightweight these tools are... they looked heavier in the photos :)

I could have never gotten my new bearings in without them!
 
not a real problem, long as it doesn't get lost.... any reason it's 2 pieces vs 1 solid?

I didn't have a lathe tool that would cut a back-face groove. SO... to keep the price down... I just made it a slide over part. The program to make it an extra part takes 45 seconds to run... or... a new cutting tool would cost me +$200.

I guess I could make the ID on the seal pressing ring a little smaller, and press them together. Hummmmmmm...... I think I'm going to do that.
 
hmm... so the device can't cut inside something that's been cut? yea if the 2 pieces were not so smooth or perfect like they might link up a bit tighter...

the bearing 'inserter' could also be a 2-3" longer, so that when you go to insert the seal, it's perfectly lined up...
 
Just got back from pressing in the new bearings and seals, tools worked great, Thanks again doc, well worth the money, Put the wear ring in after freezing overnight and it dropped into place with minimal coaxing. So I will be putting things back together tomorrow and back out the the water this weekend.

Thanks to all who helped on the forum, especially doc, sorry to bug you so much.

Doug
 
Everyone is so helpful on this site! Doc is such an amazing asset to have here. We need to make sure we don't piss him off! LOL!
 
Everyone is so helpful on this site! Doc is such an amazing asset to have here. We need to make sure we don't piss him off! LOL!

It's not easy to do... but it's happened twice this summer. One guy had his account locked, and the other just went to my ignore list.
 
I promise to be nice.

Hey Dr. I see that you answer a lot of questions, how do you find time to work on skis and bikes.....LOL
 
It's not easy to do... but it's happened twice this summer. One guy had his account locked, and the other just went to my ignore list.

If I ever get close, you have my permission to kick Jake in the taters and you can date Sis as much as you want! REALLY!!!

Thanks for all you do, Tony!
 
I promise to be nice.

Hey Dr. I see that you answer a lot of questions, how do you find time to work on skis and bikes.....LOL

I don't do a lot of "Maintenance" type work at my shop. I'm really a machine shop. SO... in the morning... I will have some prep for the day... but once the machines are running... I can look at the forum.

Also... I keep a lap top in the living room. I would rather type than watch TV.

If I ever get close, you have my permission to kick Jake in the taters and you can date Sis as much as you want! REALLY!!!

Thanks for all you do, Tony!

Once you are established... it probably can't happen. I can take a lot... and the only time I don't put up with it is when a new member (less than 10 posts) doesn't like my answer, and then makes a personal attack. Every once i a while, I may give a sarcastic answer... but I never will attack someone.

I guess the closest I got to an attack was we had a new member who was trying to give advice, but many of his answers were not 100% correct, and he thought I was attacking him. AND... at one point, I flat out asked him to stop posting if he wasn't 100% sure of his answer. After a few PM's, we worked out our differences, and he is learning... and I have no issues with that member now.
 
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Ah! The, I know more than everyone else type guy. Very frustrating! I've been on several forums and there is always someone like that.. usually they come and go... hope it's not me! LMAO!
 
Put the wear ring in last night after a day in the freezer, literally dropped right in, checked it this morning and it is nice and snug after warming up, check fit the prop and it fits nice like it should but not ridiculous tight like others have talked about. i wonder if SBT got there machining process down better.

Doc, was it the install that the fit was usually bad or the interface with the prop?

planning on putting the pump back on the ski tonight and taking the kids out with some friends.

Doug
 
Doc, was it the install that the fit was usually bad or the interface with the prop?

Doug

Both.

I've seen reports of being VERY tight, and so loose that it had to be glued into place. AND.... I've seen reports that the ID was so tight, that they couldn't crank the engine.
 
Well hopefully I got a good one, anything I can check before I put the pump back on to ensure I am good, check fit the prop and it fit nice, not to snug not to loose but that was without the shaft, hopefully the thing is round and aligned correctly.

Thanks
Doug
 
Well hopefully I got a good one, anything I can check before I put the pump back on to ensure I am good, check fit the prop and it fit nice, not to snug not to loose but that was without the shaft, hopefully the thing is round and aligned correctly.

Thanks
Doug


As long as you can spin the impeller by hand... you will be fine.

Don't forget to grease the splines in the impeller, and make sure the rubber bumper is in the end of the shaft.
 
As long as you can spin the impeller by hand... you will be fine.

Don't forget to grease the splines in the impeller, and make sure the rubber bumper is in the end of the shaft.

Not working on one right now, but how do you get the bumper to stay in place when reassembling the drive unit?
 
Not working on one right now, but how do you get the bumper to stay in place when reassembling the drive unit?

Don't grease it!! If you grease it... the trapped air pushes it out. Put it in dry, and use a little flat screwdriver, or spring prick, and push it to one side to release the air behind it. If you do that... they will stay in.
 
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