I guess i could be less than informed but they said its going to cose me about 360$ to have them change the rectifier and clear it on the computer ect.
Is this about right? I feel like thats a ton. The rectifier its self is about 175 he said.
Yea its 90$ hour labor. But i mean, he said that i could fix it my self, but i would still have to pay him to hook it up to the computer and have all the codes cleared and all that supposedly. I feel like its just ripping me...?
You could buy the rectifier off the parts link here for $165. Maybe find someone parting one out cheaper. I dont see them charging more than an hour to clear the computer. That way you come out at least $100 cheaper.
seadooya-- Can you give me a reason and understanding why it doesnt need to be cleared? I want to be able to have an valid point and argument with the shop guy who told me it HAS to be cleared. Are you 100% sure it doesnt have to be cleared when you install a new one? Thanks
Dreadloxx-- It was cranking fine and it was idling fine as well. When ever i would push the gas the MAINT light came on. WHen ever i would back off the gas back to an idle, it would go away and seem fine. Hope that helps. SImon
dreads.....locate the mpem, up front under bow, and if yuo disconnect the plug at rectifier, make sure your battery is good, and go rip around. If performs right, buy new rectifier.
your dealer wants to clear the error codes on BUDS, it's good practice but not necessary and only takes 5 minutes. Your dealer is ripping you off, period.
You can buy an aftermarket rectifier for around $50 and install in 5 minutes, 10 if you're thirsty!!!
You said its good practice to clear the error codes on BUDS. What happens or what doesnt happen if i dont have them cleared? Im sure he stole from me basically.
nothing happens, the MPEM stores the history of occurred and active faults or codes. it gives some insight to the history and good for troubleshooting an on going issue but not necessary for proper running(it's more helpful with the 4tecs). if you replace the defective part, it will run fine. dealers just say that to charge more and tell the consumer that they can't fix it themselves because they don't have the computer with BUDS to hook up to it. you can get the active codes by pressing set 5 times but need BUDS for non-active or occurred.
I use my BUDS quite a bit but only because it helps with certain issues, many things BUDS won't detect anyway.
I just replaced a rectifier with an aftermarket one for a guy on a GTX DI and charged $140 total. The DIs and RFIs rectifiers fail constantly.