Cooling system on 717 motor on a GTI, questions on hoses

[reedsposer22]

Accidentally posted in this forum, meant to put in 2 stroke PWC forum...

I have questions regarding the cooling system and exhaust. I apologize if they seem simple.

I have pictures provided. I think I have some labeled correct, please correct if I am wrong. I also have pictures of things that I do not understand. I have a 96 GTI with a 717 motor.

First two pictures here. Label as "1" in first picture, this is the exhaust cooling hose, which then splits, the label as "2" in the second picture goes directly into the exhaust, to mix water with the exhaust correct?





Now, labeled as "3" and "4", in this next picture, what are these hoses/intakes as seen when looking at the jet pump from behind the ski? Is one the intake? Also, do I have the exhaust outlet labeled correctly in the picture?



In the next picture, labeled as "7", there are 2 of these on the bottom of the engine bay, what are these things?

Also, what I have labeled as "6", are these yellow clear tubes all related to the cooling system?



also, in this picture, As far as winterizing the ski goes, if I pour anti freeze mixture into the spigot (labeled as "5") then I pour water in until I see it come out where? This is where I get confused.

Thanks for any help.

 

[racerxxx]

Ok, I moved it for you.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[racerxxx]

#1 is the main pipe cooling, it runs thru a jacket and then back into the engine, #2 slpits off to mix with the hot exhaust internally in the pipe

#3 is the main water exit from the engine #4 is the venturi tubes that when the water passes by create a vacuum and suck the water from in the bilge and suck it out. That is those 2 little black rectangles (#7 on your next pic) in the bilge on either side of the driveshaft.

#5 is the flush port so you can back flush the engine after riding is salt or dirty water. #6 is the line that comes from the under side of the exhaust manifold.

 

[racerxxx]

Here is your cooling system broken out so you can actually see it

 

[reedsposer22]

Thanks for the explanation. I need a couple things clarified. First, I stared at the diagram you posted in this thread for over an hour, it did not help. Incredibly confusing.

Also, when I go to winterize, I do not plan to start the motor. I meant to say that, when in the spring, I go to start the motor back up, where does all the antifreeze mix spray from? Will it come out of what is labeled as "3" (you called this the main water exit from engine).

Also, I looked in manual for the antifreeze procedure, it makes no sense. they say clamp off the line near the flush spiget (labeled as 5) then open spiget and add mixture until antifreeze mixture is seen, but they make no clarification in manual on where this antifreeze mixture should be seen to make sure I have enough.


Also, these black bilge things (labeled as 7), are there holes on the bottom of these, how do they work? So these are what keep the water from accumulating in the engine bay? thanks

 

[racerxxx]

Ok, if you go and winterize I'll keep it super simple. The line marked #5, disconnect that from the engine, get the same size hose from you'r local autoparts store, clamp that to the engine and insert a funnel. Now, look down in this pic where the clear line comes to the "T", that line is going to fill with antifreeze. So if you were to clamp that just past the "T" after it goes under the driveshaft that will force all the antifreeze out the bottom leg of the "T" and come out by your tow hook on the back. Then you could unclamp that hose, but you don't need to clamp it at all.

The manual states to clamp the line near the flush spigot, well....if you didn't clamp that the antifreeze would run out the port#3 on the back of your ski and never enter the engine. This is where I said to remove the hose and install a new piece ONLY for winterization. Right now that adapter is running down hill to the back of the ski, fluid can't run up hill but you can force it by clamping the hose and only allowing it to go one way. I think the confusion is you're trying to make the process harder than what it seems. It's actually very simple.

One thing to note, before you remove the battery and fill with antifreeze you should fog the engine with spray can fogging oil. There is a rubber bumper on the air box, remove that and you can spray fogging oil in there while the ski is running. Then remove the battery and pour in the antifreeze. This whole process should take no more than 1/2 hour or so.

As far as spring time start up, antifreeze will come out anywhere water exits #3 and back by the tow hook and exhaust exit #6. I would suggest a spring time start up and run the ski on the hose before just putting it in the water.


The black bilge things run off suction, the impeller pushes the water thru the pump to move you forward, at that time the water is forced past those white tubes, that force acts like a venturi (vacuum) and sucks any water thru those black doo-dads up the tubes into the exit nozzle on the pump and out into the water you're riding in. A very simple but effective non-mechanical/electrical bilge pump.

 

[reedsposer22]

Thanks for reply. The reason I am confused is manual only says one clamp, the engine outlet hose (#5) , but everyone here says clamp the T. Let me ask you this. I plan on putting antifreeze in mid november and then starting motor ever 2 weeks for 1 minute.

This way I don't need to take battery out, buy a trickle charger, fogging spray, etc. now, after i start motor, antifreeze will blow out onto my driveway, and I will have to redo the process. This is ok with me. Is this plan reasonable so battery stays charged and internals are lubricated every two weeks. It will be cold, so I have no fear of motor overheating after running for a minute. Do you think even 2 minutes would be safe?

now the T connection... I am asking about clamping at the T, because, if it is not needed, I would not do it. The clamp at outlet hose makes sense....without it all the mix would drain out the back (labeled as #3). But, if I do not clamp the T, you say mixture will flow out near tow hook? I have never seen this drain btw.

 

[reedsposer22]

.

The black bilge things run off suction, the impeller pushes the water thru the pump to move you forward, at that time the water is forced past those white tubes, that force acts like a venturi (vacuum) and sucks any water thru those black doo-dads up the tubes into the exit nozzle on the pump and out into the water you're riding in. A very simple but effective non-mechanical/electrical bilge pump.

Where does the hosing from bilge drain into? Does it drain into the part labeled as "3" on the back of the ski? Thanks

 

[racerxxx]

Thanks for reply. The reason I am confused is manual only says one clamp, the engine outlet hose (#5) , but everyone here says clamp the T. Let me ask you this. I plan on putting antifreeze in mid november and then starting motor ever 2 weeks for 1 minute.

This way I don't need to take battery out, buy a trickle charger, fogging spray, etc. now, after i start motor, antifreeze will blow out onto my driveway, and I will have to redo the process. This is ok with me. Is this plan reasonable so battery stays charged and internals are lubricated every two weeks. It will be cold, so I have no fear of motor overheating after running for a minute. Do you think even 2 minutes would be safe?

now the T connection... I am asking about clamping at the T, because, if it is not needed, I would not do it. The clamp at outlet hose makes sense....without it all the mix would drain out the back (labeled as #3). But, if I do not clamp the T, you say mixture will flow out near tow hook? I have never seen this drain btw.

Yes, clamp that line and you'll also need to clamp the other line on the back of the head, that one goes back to the pump. If you download a 99 manual it will show it clear as day, but pay attention where the pics are marked 717. The entire system should take roughly a 1/2 gallon of antifreeze. Again, this is about a 1/2 hour job, super easy. I'll be winterizing my HX in the next few weeks, If I remember I'll take some pics.

Sta-Bil, Fog, Antifreeze, pull the battery, leave the seat open just a smidge and cover it. Forget about it until the spring. Honestly, starting it every 2 weeks is a waste of time. I don't put my batteries on a tender, I don't believe in them (sorry to those who do). Batteries only last 3 seasons on average I would say. I haven't put my batteries on a charger in the spring either, I store them inside 6' from my heater. It works for me, perhaps not for everyone but I'm not throwing a wrench into the works and changing my system.

 

[racerxxx]

Where does the hosing from bilge drain into? Does it drain into the part labeled as "3" on the back of the ski? Thanks

No, it comes out #4. Pretend the the white tubes at the back of the pump is the tube on your vacuum cleaner, the body of water you're riding in is the canister in which you're dust gets sucked into.


It works "kinda" like this, but only when the ski is running.


[video=youtube;YupEd7B479s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YupEd7B479s[/video]

 

[Mickirig1]

Like he said no reason to start them when you do the winterizing right. The fogging oil sprayed in while running protects the intake system. Sprayed in the cylinders it protects the internals. Marine Stabilize in the fuel tank protects the internals of the carburetor from water and varnish buildup. Run the ski a little to get gas in carb. A few bits of advice on first start up in the spring. Pull the choke all the way out. Roll them outside or at least have the garage door open. The cloud of smoke can be large.

 

[reedsposer22]

Racerx, thanks for reference to 99 manual even though I have 96. Now, I see why I was confused! My manual does not explain the 2 hose clamping method, just the single hose clamp method!!!! It was a miscommunication because your manual does it a different way than mine. I get it now, thanks for the help.

Also, why do you say starting it every 2 weeks during winter is a waste of time. To me it will keep internals lubed, battery fresher and gas cycled through the carb. Thoughts? thanks.

 

[reedsposer22]

Like he said no reason to start them when you do the winterizing right. The fogging oil sprayed in while running protects the intake system. Sprayed in the cylinders it protects the internals. Marine Stabilize in the fuel tank protects the internals of the carburetor from water and varnish buildup. Run the ski a little to get gas in carb. A few bits of advice on first start up in the spring. Pull the choke all the way out. Roll them outside or at least have the garage door open. The cloud of smoke can be large.

Hey for the hose clamps, what do you guys use? I have none, so I will need to buy. What can I use to clamp one of the small clear hoses vs the black intake hose.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Also, why do you say starting it every 2 weeks during winter is a waste of time. To me it will keep internals lubed, battery fresher and gas cycled through the carb. Thoughts? thanks.

By starting the engine you will wash the cylinder walls of the fogging oil and pump antifreeze out in some cases as well. Winterize it and leave it in bed,,,,


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[racerxxx]

Hey for the hose clamps, what do you guys use? I have none, so I will need to buy. What can I use to clamp one of the small clear hoses vs the black intake hose.

This thread is for a 787 powered ski, but I posted it so you can see the clamps I use.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?67608-1996-XP-Winterization


I've never needed to start my ski during the winter, ever and I've been into some sort of Seadoo since the early 90's. I fog it, antifreeze it, remove the battery and put i under the steps in my basement on a 2X4 and do what ever other winterization I do before I put them up on the storage rack in my shop. I don't use a tender and I have never put it on charge in the spring. For me it's just a waste of my time to go out and start it when the season is over it's time to work on new skis or other projects so I don't want the bother of remembering what I have to do until it's spring. Hey, it's your ski so if you want to remember to do it, have at it. You're also in a different climate than me.


Here's the other reason I'm not starting my skis. Not to mention my milling machine is right behind the storage rack.

 

[Mickirig1]

All the winterizing you do, puts the Ski in a hibernating state. All surfaces internally are protected. The battery is a power generating device. As long as it does not go totally dead it's fine. Disconnect them or take them out of Ski. My Ski's are stored in a dry barn with covers and moisture absorbing packs inside. For the first start up. I charge batteries on a 2 amp charger for 4 - 5 hours. Pull choke all the way out and they start with a big cloud of smoke.
By doing all the service before you put it to sleep. All you need to do is take them to water.