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Conundrum

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Well good luck with that. Let us know when it blows up again.
Sorry to be blunt but slapping new pistons in isn't the correct way to fix it.
 
Yup! If you can't afford to do it right, how will you afford to do it over?

Chester
 
alright, I get. Ive called SBT and for under $900. I can get a rebuilt engine, my question now is, what special tools am I going to need to pull my current engine and reinstall the replacement engine?
 
Your going to need OEM carb kits(kit), oil filter, and fuel valve so this new engine does not go the way of the old one. Find that cause of failure.

Look for fuel lines folded over on themselves kinking and check the O-ring on the top of the filter/water collector.
 
I mean, am I going to need a support plate kit as stated in the manual, will I need a flywheel puller, basically anything that I need that isnt in a typical tool box?
 
You will need an impeller tool for removing the rear flywheel or a chain wrench.
For the front flywheel some have used a steering wheel puller or you can buy the one from SBT.

The only other thing you need is the engine alignment tool and some members here like Coastiejoe rent them.

Did you ask them if the one you have is still under warranty? If their serial number tag is on it they can look it up.
 
The domes are cut. Like this one.



359.jpg





This is a stock non cut dome


You can see how much SBT cuts out of their domes to repair grenaded ones and to probably de-tune the bang to make the engine last longer.....past the warranty mark.



360.jpg
 
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I moved the thread from the performance section. You can still get to it from there for a month as I left a redirect.



I was only noting that it was an SBT engine because many rebuilders will not use an SBT engine as a core to build from....welded crank for most builders is a no-no. Hate to see you ship it across the country only to find out the bad news.



Follow the connecting rod down to the crank, where the pin goes thru on the top 1/3 of the pin you will see the tig welding marks.




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