The previous owner of my boat has always always used tc-w3 outboard oil on the boat, even since he bought it new in 1996. from my reading, i'd prefer to move towards something better, like the quicksilver pwc oil, which is atleast the correct requirements for the 717 engine. Now having said that, is it going to hurt to change oils since he's always ran this? Or will it help. I did notice the oil causes a lot of smoke out of the exhaust. Also, when draining the oil, where is the best place to drain from? I'm considering just letting it run low since he just filled it up before he sold it to me. Any help is much appreciated.
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Changing to a different oil on 1996 speedster.
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Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Do not mix the oils. Bad things can happen. Also, I have a hard time beveling he has always run that oil. We've had indications that a seadoo engine may not live out a season on TC-w3. (Unless the boat has almost no time on it)
I would drain the oil from the hose at the injection pump, and from the fitting under the carbs. That way, you can get that crap oil out of the rotary valve too. Then I would change the filter in the pump hose, before I would top it off with the proper oil. You will need about 1-1/2 gallons to refill the system. Also, you will need to bleed the oil pump.
I would drain the oil from the hose at the injection pump, and from the fitting under the carbs. That way, you can get that crap oil out of the rotary valve too. Then I would change the filter in the pump hose, before I would top it off with the proper oil. You will need about 1-1/2 gallons to refill the system. Also, you will need to bleed the oil pump.
How hard is it to drain the oil from the fitting under the carbs?? I'm not too handy with this boat yet as its very new to me. And how do I bleed the oil pump?? I wouldn't have an issue with the draining of the tank as its very easy to access, but I think the rest is going to be an issue for me. Would it really hurt if I just drained the entire tank and refilled it with new stuff, without draining the lower portion on the carbs??
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
I understand. It sounds a little intimidating, but you already know that the wrong oil is death to your engine. So... a little time, and learning will far outweigh the consequences.
OK... it's not easy to see... but the hose that feeds the rotary valve (also seen as "RV") is a little hard to see... but once you get it off... you can just let it drain into the hull, and clean it up later. I would recommend draining the tank as good as you can to minimize the mess.
Once that's done... remove the big hose at the oil pump, and let it drain too. If you look up that hose... you will see an "In-line" filter. That's the oil filter. You should change it now. You can get them at your local dealer for about $8~$12 depending if they discount parts at all.
At this point... if you see any sign of hard, or brittle hoses... you should just replace them now. A broken hose is death to the engine.
After you hook up the hoses, and clean up any mess (Castrol super clean works well to flush the oil away) you need to bleed the system. Fill the oil tank, and then down on the pump, there is a screw on the face of the pump, in line with the feed hose. Open that up, and the oil will flow into the pump. (Close it when oil flows out of it) Normally, you should remove the air, internal of the pump... but if you don't open the small hoses... you can just add a little to the fuel (1 oz/gal) and go ride easy for 4 or 5 minutes. By that time, you will push the air out, and the oil int he fuel will keep you protected.
If you change the small hoses, you must do a real bleeding.
If you have anymore Q's... just yell.
FYI... the RV will refill on it's own.
OK... it's not easy to see... but the hose that feeds the rotary valve (also seen as "RV") is a little hard to see... but once you get it off... you can just let it drain into the hull, and clean it up later. I would recommend draining the tank as good as you can to minimize the mess.
Once that's done... remove the big hose at the oil pump, and let it drain too. If you look up that hose... you will see an "In-line" filter. That's the oil filter. You should change it now. You can get them at your local dealer for about $8~$12 depending if they discount parts at all.
At this point... if you see any sign of hard, or brittle hoses... you should just replace them now. A broken hose is death to the engine.
After you hook up the hoses, and clean up any mess (Castrol super clean works well to flush the oil away) you need to bleed the system. Fill the oil tank, and then down on the pump, there is a screw on the face of the pump, in line with the feed hose. Open that up, and the oil will flow into the pump. (Close it when oil flows out of it) Normally, you should remove the air, internal of the pump... but if you don't open the small hoses... you can just add a little to the fuel (1 oz/gal) and go ride easy for 4 or 5 minutes. By that time, you will push the air out, and the oil int he fuel will keep you protected.
If you change the small hoses, you must do a real bleeding.
If you have anymore Q's... just yell.
FYI... the RV will refill on it's own.
parrothd
Active Member
Shhh....Parrothd runs both his 717 skis on cheap TC-w3, and have even mixed multiple types without issues for years..
If you're really worried about mixing the oils, run the tank down to close to empty or use a hose siphon to get it all out, then fill it with the new stuff. Autozone will have a small cheap siphon, just remove one of the hoses from the top of the tank and suck it out.
Shhh....Parrothd runs both his 717 skis on cheap TC-w3, and have even mixed multiple types without issues for years..
If you're really worried about mixing the oils, run the tank down to close to empty or use a hose siphon to get it all out, then fill it with the new stuff. Autozone will have a small cheap siphon, just remove one of the hoses from the top of the tank and suck it out.
See, I've read this before also from a few other forums, and this is what I've planned on doing. Now do you think it would be safe to switch over to the api-tc oil and not have an issue? as long as the oil is almost empty.
parrothd
Active Member
Everyone is going to have their own opinion, if you search the archives you'll find tons and tons of posts, all conflicting, odds are since the guy was using "the wrong oil" he's been mixing them too. On a 717 motor I buy what ever is available, usually the cheapest, but on my 787 engines, I only use the good stuff, amsoil because it has RAVE valves and those clog up easily with the cheaper stuff so you have to clean them more often...Since you're worried about it, drain the tank and as much as you can and fill it with the new stuff. If you decided to remove all the lines be sure to run premix in the tank for the first tank for insurance...
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