I am on the verge of getting a 2005 challenger and was wondering a few things none of the instruments work except the check engine light went off once when test driving quick fix or serious electrical problem?. Question about the oil is the owner used regular not synthetic and I was wondering rather than go through the purging process at the next oil change would a synthetic blend work or would that produce the same jelly type substance that I'v heard you get when mixing pure synthetic. Any help or advice would be appreciated, also noticed a 2006 that sounds in better shape today wondered how wrong would it be to purchase the newer boat after going through a test drive, giving a deposit, and driving a total of10 hours to check out the other boat and the whole process I have been with the 2005 owner? Is it completely a fopah if the other boat is legitimately in much better shape?
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Challenger Purchase/Synthetic oil question
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Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
If I'm not mistaken... a 2005 Challenger will have a Rotax 4-stroke. So... the oil question isn't an issue. (or am I missing something?)
But... unless you can work on it yoursef... you may want to pass on it. the gauge thing can be as easy as a blown fuse... or it can be something bad.
But... unless you can work on it yoursef... you may want to pass on it. the gauge thing can be as easy as a blown fuse... or it can be something bad.
WAJetboating
Member
There were 2005 Challengers with Mercury engines. We need to know more about which boat and engine he's considering.
With all the used boats out there, I wouldn't get too fixated on one that has known problems....
With all the used boats out there, I wouldn't get too fixated on one that has known problems....
WAJetboating
Member
Technically true, but...
In my personal experience I have found that Mercury Premium Plus - their recommended oil - really does make a difference. When I purchased my boat, the original owner had switched to a generic (but rated!) oil and gave me the remainder of his supply. I burned through that, then tried the recommended Premium Plus and found far less smoke and far less stinky smell. Those improvements were worth the small incremental cost so I've stuck with it.
In my personal experience I have found that Mercury Premium Plus - their recommended oil - really does make a difference. When I purchased my boat, the original owner had switched to a generic (but rated!) oil and gave me the remainder of his supply. I burned through that, then tried the recommended Premium Plus and found far less smoke and far less stinky smell. Those improvements were worth the small incremental cost so I've stuck with it.
It is the rotax 4-stroke
My knowledge is minimal at best and only from reading from posts on this forum and research online but the engine is not the merc but the rotax. I had read that mixing synthetics with regular 10w40 will create a jello like substance, not sure if that does or doesn't apply with the 215 hp 4-stroke rotax. Just want to be sure if I add a synthetic blend oil that I won't have any problems, as I've heard synthetic is better in high revving engines. On the test ride the nose of the boat went up and seemed to respond when we throttled but couldn't see if the rpms got to 8000 due to the tach not working, so engine felt like it was strong. But the gauge problem will be looked at today by a mechanic, and I'm hoping that besides the jet pump unit the engine and electrical system are similar to most prop boats so he can diagnose any serious issues.
My knowledge is minimal at best and only from reading from posts on this forum and research online but the engine is not the merc but the rotax. I had read that mixing synthetics with regular 10w40 will create a jello like substance, not sure if that does or doesn't apply with the 215 hp 4-stroke rotax. Just want to be sure if I add a synthetic blend oil that I won't have any problems, as I've heard synthetic is better in high revving engines. On the test ride the nose of the boat went up and seemed to respond when we throttled but couldn't see if the rpms got to 8000 due to the tach not working, so engine felt like it was strong. But the gauge problem will be looked at today by a mechanic, and I'm hoping that besides the jet pump unit the engine and electrical system are similar to most prop boats so he can diagnose any serious issues.
WAJetboating
Member
If he's a ROTAX mechanic, he will be familiar with jetdrives since there's never been (to my knowledge) a Rotax powered open prop boat. They're all jets. So if he's qualified, you should be in great shape because he will be familiar with everything on your craft.
Bought it, now what steps to keep it running well?
Well finished the deal for the boat yesterday, the prev. owner found a loose wire so all the gauges are operational. As far as the oil he said the dealer used mobil 1 and never had a problem , although it seems to go through coolant kind of quickly. It was never used in salt water but that is all it will be in now, Looking for a general checklist about what most owners do after pulling it out for the day. As far as what to flush out, what to lube & what kind to buy and just want to know what I need to do to ensure my new toy stays in tip top shape?
Well finished the deal for the boat yesterday, the prev. owner found a loose wire so all the gauges are operational. As far as the oil he said the dealer used mobil 1 and never had a problem , although it seems to go through coolant kind of quickly. It was never used in salt water but that is all it will be in now, Looking for a general checklist about what most owners do after pulling it out for the day. As far as what to flush out, what to lube & what kind to buy and just want to know what I need to do to ensure my new toy stays in tip top shape?
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Using coolant????
That could be bad. That is the first sign of a blown head gasket. Open the cap of the overflow, and give it a good sniff. If you smell gas/oil/exhaust in it... don't keep driving the boat until you figure out why it's using coolant. If it smells clean, and sweet, then when you use it the first time, make sure it's not overheating.
As far as a check list... it you are running in fresh water, just pull it out, fire it up for a couple seconds to blow out the extra water in the exhaust, and then give it a good bath when you get home.
That could be bad. That is the first sign of a blown head gasket. Open the cap of the overflow, and give it a good sniff. If you smell gas/oil/exhaust in it... don't keep driving the boat until you figure out why it's using coolant. If it smells clean, and sweet, then when you use it the first time, make sure it's not overheating.
As far as a check list... it you are running in fresh water, just pull it out, fire it up for a couple seconds to blow out the extra water in the exhaust, and then give it a good bath when you get home.
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