cavitation

[drunkenmaster]

Have a 04 speedster 200 with a cavitation issue on one motor.
When I take off it winds up to the rev limiter (just one engine) Also that same motor will run about 7300 RPM at wide open throttle while the other runs in the 6200 range. Wear rings were a little worn so I replaced them. I also replaced the carbon seals although I'm not sure it was needed. Still have the same issue. The impeller has a couple of what I would consider small blemishes on the outer edges if that helps, not sure if thats an issue or not.


What is normal RPM range for this boat at WOT?

 

[jcrango]

My 04 s200 engines run around 7200 at wot. You might want to swap the tach plugs to make sure both tachs are working the same.

 

[yamahauler99]

Hello D. Master I have the exact issue on my 95 speedster. For me it is the left engine that tacks up but doesent do much if anything to get us up and plane-ed out. the "under the boat" edges of both props have the little knicks on them. however on mine the right prop has PERFECT edges on the exit side of the prop, which is probably the most important edge i would assume. the left prop exit side edges are knicked up very badly.

I want to swap my props to see if the issue reverses itself. Does anyone know how much trouble it is to swap the props out on an 95 speedster?

Steve

 

[yamahauler99]

jcrango, where would you find teh tach plugs? under the dash or in the engine compartment?

Steve

 

[RFoster130]

jcrango, where would you find teh tach plugs? under the dash or in the engine compartment?

Steve

You are talking about a 95 2 stroke vs an 04 4 tech. I doubt the issue is the same.

When you say it "tacks up", do you hear the engine actually rev up? If so, you have a cavitation issue. Since you dont know how hard it is to swap impellers, i am assuming you havent tried to swap the wear ring. I would start with that. Maybe get the impeller refurbished while you have it all out. It is a very easy job, look at the how to section here on changing the wear ring.

 

[yamahauler99]

I think I will do that. Since I haven't had to buy any parts for the boat yet where is the best place to buy these? I have found some aftermarkets on eBay for around 40 bucks each. Will the prop tool be required, or does it just make the job easier?

Thanks for your input
Steve

 

[RFoster130]

I would only buy OEM seadoo wear rings. A local dealer if you have one. If not, the parts link here. You need the impeller tool....ebay is fine for that.

 

[yamahauler99]

Took it to the shop

OK, here is what the dealer told me.

300.00 per engine to replace the wear rings. Both of mine were gone completely. They showed me several customer boats, and there is only a few 1000ths between the impeller and the wear ring, I already knew mine had close to 1/8 inch between the impeller and what must have been the wear ring housing.

Dealer said the OEM rings are about 70.00 plus all the o rings and gaskets and some oil to put them back together with....

Is there oil in there? I cant tell where the oil would be stored????? it looks like i can see the front of the impeller when I am under the boat, and i can see the back of it from the rear of the boat....

So...... 600.00 for the dealer to do it, kinda hurts a little.

 

[RFoster130]

Yeah that price is crazy, but expected at a dealer. You need 2 new wear rings which are around 65 each. 2 New neoprene seals to seal the pumps to the hull, which are like 10 bucks each. Then you really should change the oil in the pump cone. It is synthetic gear lube. You can buy everything and do it yourself for under $160. Read the thread DRHonda wrote on how to change your wear ring.

Checking the parts link here, the wear rings are 54 each and the neoprene seals 6 bucks.

 

[RFoster130]

Just to make it easy for ya. Here is the how to link.

http://seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=30720

 

[dsw222]

Yeah that price is crazy, but expected at a dealer. You need 2 new wear rings which are around 65 each. 2 New neoprene seals to seal the pumps to the hull, which are like 10 bucks each. Then you really should change the oil in the pump cone. It is synthetic gear lube. You can buy everything and do it yourself for under $160. Read the thread DRHonda wrote on how to change your wear ring.

Checking the parts link here, the wear rings are 54 each and the neoprene seals 6 bucks.

I got my wear rings from SBT and they're only 35 each. Add in the 20 bucks for the seals and some amsoil gear lube in the jet pump cones.... you can do it yourself in an afternoon for under 150 (as stated above)

Get the shop manual and go from there. Its not hard... just time consuming on your first try doing it.

 

[yamahauler99]

I have always done my own work on the bikes, rebuilding 2 and 4 strokes, but never been into a boats jet pump before.....i looked at the how to article and it looks pretty easy. I think you have actually talked me into doing it myself!!!!

Thanks!!!!!!

I guess I need to order the removal tool!!!!!

 

[yamahauler99]

pump diagram with part numbers

I have recieved the wear rings and most of the parts to rebuild my pumps. There was 1 oring (271000313) that was not available.
Does anyone know where I can get a blown up image of how the pump goes togather with part numbers associated with images?

Steve

 

[yamahauler99]

synthetic gear lube

also, is there any specific weight to the gear oil for the cones? Can i pick this up at napa or autozone?

Steve

 

[RFoster130]

Any synthetic 75w90 gear oil will work.