Carbon ring inspection and replacement

[artr]

I want to inspect and replace (if needed) the carbon seal and ring seal carrier (hat) to get rid of cavitation on hard acceleration from stand still on my 96 GTX. I had previously inspected the impeller clearance, condition, wear ring and installed a neoprene seal. I also tried tightening the band clamps on the carbon ring and boot. None of these corrected the cavitation. It is worth noting I do not observe water leakage from the carbon seal or boot. I have searched and looked at information on carbon ring inspection/replacement from the forum and some other youtube videos. Most of the forum material talks about leaving the jet pump attached and applying a lot of force by hand or with leverage to get the ring seal carrier to move back to expose and move the o-ring or c-clip that is on the drive shaft. Some mention using some penetrating oil if the ring seal carrier seems stuck to the drive shaft which I think mine is. I’ve watched a couple of youtube videos which recommend removing the jet pump first, putting some wooden braces in between the PTO flywheel and ring seal carrier, then tapping on the end of the drive shaft to get it to move forward into the PTO and the c-clip will be exposed without applying a lot of force. I have the following questions:

Has anyone tried the method of removing the jet pump first and then tapping on the driveshaft? It seems like it less trouble and easier but maybe something can be damaged by using that method.

I’ve seen a recommendation to move the boot a little forward where it mounts to the hull in order to increase pressure on the carbon ring to ring seal carrier. Is this really worth it or is it just putting off the replacement of the carbon seal/ring seal carrier and boot? I tried to move my boot forward without removing the c-clip and it would not budge by hand.

Thanks for any advice

 

[mikidymac]

You have to remove the stainless hat before removing the pump or you will have nothing to push against and the shaft will just move instead of the hat moving.

 

[artr]

These were the 2 videos I saw where the pump was removed before exposing the c clip. The hat is held in place with wooden braces and the drive shaft is lightly tapped with a hammer. Has anyone used this method? It seems easier.

 

[DJGTI]

I used that method recently it worked well for me.

 

[artr]

I took the drive shaft out and tried the standard method first before removing the jet pump. I sprayed into the hat with silicon lubricant the night before and again before using a piece of board wedged against the motor mounts and the handles of a channel locks to leverage the hat back. After a few tries it moved and stayed in position to allow me to move the rubber o-ring. I think the boot is compressed from age and not applying enough force against the carbon ring/hat. As I said above there is no water leakage, only cavitation on hard acceleration from a standstill. The boot measures 2 3/4" uncompressed. The carbon ring extends 3/8" out of the boot and still has a beveled edge on the face. The surfaces of both the ring and hat are very smooth to the touch and I do not feel anything in the areas of the hat that are discolored (attached photo).
I'm thinking of just replacing the boot and the hat o-rings but I am looking for what those with more experience think. If only the boot is replaced, should I use very fine emery cloth on the surface of the hat and carbon ring or just use a solvent like alcohol to clean them. Thanks.

 

[mikidymac]

Is that pitting on the hat?

Might just be safe and replace it as you don’t want to do it twice or ruin your summer now that you are this far.