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carb update

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brandon32689

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hey guys i got a update on my carbs i pulled them off yesterday to go threw them again and see if they need rebiult, i am unsure if they need it or not, everything looked really clean and the filters looked damn near new, the paper work says all the hoses were replaced and carbs rebuilt june of 08 so this would be there 4th season on them, The only problem i am having is sometimes it will studder or it wont go past 30 at full throttle and then it will clear up and work the rest of the day maybe doing it one more time throughout the day, here are a bunch of pics i took and maybe someone with more knowlidge will tell me if i should, i would of course get the package with new needles

also is the cap ppl talk about still on my HS adjuster?


IMAG0537.jpg

IMAG0535.jpg

IMAG0521.jpg

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IMAG0523.jpg


also gunna have to fix or replace this
IMAG0538.jpg
 
Hi Brandon,

As you know, I'm no expert on carbs., but to me they look pretty damn good. I've only had my carbs. off once, when I changed the fuel lines.
They looked about like yours, so I cleaned the filters and put them back on. Haven't had any problems since.

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Lou
 
Ya they look good to me to that's what I'm wondering if I should order a,kit or just needles or if that's not my problem.
 
Okay cool do you think that is what is causing the problems. Also what is the stock setting for the low speed adjuster and on the hp adjuster it should just stay in the middle right.
 
Okay cool do you think that is what is causing the problems. Also what is the stock setting for the low speed adjuster and on the hp adjuster it should just stay in the middle right.

Cause:
My guess is this engine vibrates now from lack of alignment. Besides wearing the NS's, the front or rear CS seals may be worn/leaking, so do the pressure test for that as pictoralized in the Shop Manual, and check for broken or loose mounts. Worth checking out!
 
How do you do the pressure test and all the mounts are tight and secured good I've already checked that out.


TO Perform a leak-down test: Use a piece of rubber (you can cut up an old bicycle tube) block off the intake before the carb as well as the exhaust and slowly apply pressure through the pulse fitting. It should hold 10psi and leak down no more than one psi per minute within ten minutes. The crank case can fill up with oil thru the center seals, as when the inside of the engine goes through it's "vacuum" stageas the piston goes up, to suck gas from the carbs,and air thru the flame arrestor. It sucks injection oil out of the rotary valve gear cavity. That oil filled cavity is supposed to be blocked off by oil seals on each side of the gear on your crankshaft, but tends to leak as the seals get old or non BRP two stroke oil is used by the owner. To replace these seals, you must replace the whole crankshaft. You engine and jetpump alignment is critical to both end seals on the crankshaft, as an engine that vibrates excessively can wear these seals out pre-maturely and allow air into the lower case and cause the engine to run in a lean condition, which can result in seizure and failure of the integral moveing parts & internal components. Mis-alignment will cause motor mounts, bolts, exhaust pipes to break, and bearings to wear and fail that results in the flywheel jumping around in the magnito houseing tearing up the Stator, starter bendix and anything that gets in its way as the motor revs.
 
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