Carb Bolts Siezed / RV Oil Resevoir Leaking

[chrisny454]

Two things:

I have a 96 GTX. First time taking the carbs off and the 4 bolts holding the 2 carbs to the RV intake are seized. I broke a craftsman 6mm socket trying to loosen them. My fear is that I will break the bolts off and then I will have to pull the RV intake off which I do not want to.

BUT it seems the RV oil resevoir is leaking oil into my hull so an engine rebuild could be sooner than I think.

SO, what do the experts recommend in trying to loosen these bolts? I thought about heat with a torch, but there are too many fuel lines and gas nearby and we all know where that leads.:ack:

The second thing is the leaking oil... is the only way to fix this is to rebuild the bottom end of the motor?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[kustomkarl]

Try to spray some PB Blaster on the bolts and soak them good...it works for me all the time. As for the reservoir is it the plastic tank or the valve area itself on the case? If it is the case itself I believe there is a gasket in some places,it depends on exactly where you are referring to. You might try tightening the bolts too. It usually doesn't leak from the rotary valve shaft area.
Keep us posted on your progress.


Karl

 

[chrisny454]

From Bad to Worse...

I was able to get one of the carbs off with a 6mm socket. The other one just would not budge. So, plan B was to take the RV/Intake cover off. TWIST/SNAP, one of the bolts for RV cover twisted the head right off. Now the thread of the bolt is stuck in the lower end casing.

So what started to be a routine carb rebuild is going to turn into a pulling the whole motor and waste alot of time rebuild.

I am seeing a lot of corrosion and I only recall visiting the salty ocean twice with the machine, I guess I didnt clean it well enough to prevent this experience. :ack:

I also broke a few parts in the process. The Throttle synchronizer arm needs fixing... anyone know where I can get a cheap used replacement - besides ebay?

 

[seadoosnipe]

Aluminum oxide...

You are encountering the all so well known "aluminum oxide". This is not caused from your lack of flushing. This is a normal occurance between two disimilar metals. The stainless bolts and aluminum casing.

It occurs through electroylsis. Where the tips of the metals come in contact, they pretty much weld themselves together. If you can get the carbs out, you'll find that your seizeure is not at the threads that bolt them on, but from the shaft shank that passes through the carbs. Here is where you'll find the most white powdery stuff that has them locked up tighter than a drum.

From where you are now, gently use a socket type allen wrench to hold level torque on the bolts and try your best to remove them. You are likely going to end up using easy outs or drill out and tap to the next size up.

I had to do this to my rotary plate, exhaust manifold and carbs.....so, join the club.....Welcome to the world of Seadoo's........:cheers:

 

[PWCdoc]

Also, using some heat....well ok...a lot of heat can help as well. You will likely discolor the paint on the motor however.

 

[chrisny454]

Finally got the machine together this weeked

Got all the broken screws out (dremel came in mighty handy for this), Rebuilt the carbs - with SeaDooSource's complete kit. Painted them and put them back on the machine.

Machine took a few cranks to prime the lines, but once the gas hit the carbs the machine roared to life. Lots of smoke from my foggin job last winter. Once the smoke cleared it ran smooth and reved nicely.

Next step to put it in the water and goooo!

I am still seeing alot of oil in the bottom of the hull and that is concerning me. I cleaned it out and will see if it reappears when I am done with my first ride this spring.

 

[salmonkiller01]

Have you checked all the oil lines for cracks. I had the oil line from the exhaust side of the block crack and what a mess. Also check the 2 small lines going from the oil pump to the rv cover they are also known for getting brittle.

 

[jfandl]

You are encountering the all so well known "aluminum oxide". This is not caused from your lack of flushing. This is a normal occurance between two disimilar metals. The stainless bolts and aluminum casing.

It occurs through electroylsis. Where the tips of the metals come in contact, they pretty much weld themselves together. If you can get the carbs out, you'll find that your seizeure is not at the threads that bolt them on, but from the shaft shank that passes through the carbs. Here is where you'll find the most white powdery stuff that has them locked up tighter than a drum.

From where you are now, gently use a socket type allen wrench to hold level torque on the bolts and try your best to remove them. You are likely going to end up using easy outs or drill out and tap to the next size up.

I had to do this to my rotary plate, exhaust manifold and carbs.....so, join the club.....Welcome to the world of Seadoo's........:cheers:

Since we all experience this nightmare of the Carb bolts oxidizing in the shaft, has anyone come up with a solution to prevent future incidents when the carbs must come off again?

I got the heads out 1/8" before the head stripped on two bolts. I had to take of the manifold, drive a chisel through the manifold to separate them a little and then finally cut the bolts off. I tried to pound the cut bolts out of the carb only to find that on my last bolt, the side of the carb shattered from the force. Now I have a wasted carb due to a stupid bolt!

I have a used carb shipping to me but I want to prevent this from happening in the future. I would like to grease the bolts but the tolerance is too tight to allow the grease to work.

Has anyone drilled the shaft 80-90% of the way (or all the way) to allow more clearance for the bolts so they don't stay wedged again the shaft?

Any other ideas are welcome but I think widening the shaft is what I am going to try. If it's bolted on and gaskets are in place, it should be solid.