Carb adjustments with aftermarket flame arrestors?

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Brprxt215

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So mid June I bought a 96 xp for $400. I did some “tune up” maintenance on it such as redoing tempo fuel lines with marine grade ones. Pulled both Raves and cleaned them and had my Welch plug on the exhaust welded up. Finally got to actually try and ride it today. It doesn’t have much low end power and no top end power with bogging in the mid to upper range. Only getting 44mph out of it(on my girlfriends dream o meter riding next to me) it has aftermarket K&N flame arrestors on it. Does this effect the specs of the jetting? I am going to pull the carbs and rebuild them with mikuni kits but not sure how I should set the jets with the flame arrestors. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks guys!
 
"Does this effect the specs of the jetting?" Yes! K&N should have specs. Also check with people in your area that have modified their boats to see what works for them. What do the spark plugs look like?
 
I would advise against the K&N. They flow zero air when wet and will not increase power. I suggest stock jetting with the stock air box and support brace. It will flow all the air a stock engine can handle and does a great job keeping water out of the intake.
 
Every filter for the 96XP is going to require a different carb setup. R&D's are different than Prok's, heck, there are even two different kind of R&D's. I have the 96XP and a set of the tall R&D's and was told to go up a jet size on the lower - but then was told if I do not have any performance parts (like a Factory Spec2 pipe) to not even bother with air filters because there is no increased perfomance elsewhere on the boat to need more air. It is all a confusing mess to me. MY SUGGESTION is to visit Green Hulk.com and look for posts from Bill O'Neal of Watercraft Magic - posts from around 1996 - to see what absolutely you need to look for and what to do when you make your choices. there is a ton of stuff on GH about options for the 96. Oh, and buy your Mikuni Carb rebuild kit from OSDMarine.com.
 
No need to go to Greenhulk, or look for Bill O'neils posts from 96. We have a great forum here with many talented people. @Matt Braley can get you pointed in the correct direction. But, honestly Mik have the most solid advice yet, just go back to a stock box. Without another mods it's been proven to and no extra power.
 
Ok I was thinking the same going back to stock airbox as well. I was looking at carbs today and the Accel pump has been deleted. Is that going to pose a problem or not?
 
If I can just order a stock airbox and buy a “back to oem” rebuild kit off osd I will. Just not sure if having a primer instead of choke and the deleted Accel pump will hinder anything. What do you gentlemen recommend?
 
The 96’ doesn’t use accelerator pump carbs.
Primer doesn’t matter either.

Just get the airbox and brace so you don’t crack an intake manifold and use stock jetting specs. Couldn’t be simpler.
 
Awesome that sounds good I can do that. I appreciate the help! It’s not simple for me haha. This experience is all a big learning curve for me. Thankfully I have people like you that understand and have the knowledge to share!
 
I agree that a stock airbox setup is the way to go if your not modding the ski.

Sounds like your water regulator may be faulty in addition to the needed fuel system service. You can take a short test with the seat and under seat baffle off and see if it is leaking water out under operation.
 
Thank you Matt I will check that. I did take apart the top half of the exhaust to get the Welch plugs welded up. When I put it back together the copper ring didn’t sit properly and was squirting water at higher rpms on the trailer. I took it back apart put a new copper ring with a good amount of copper sealant in there. I rode it from the launch about 500 yards to my ramp and noticed a slight slight cripple still leaking through around the stainless clamp. I tightened the nut more hoping it will seal it the rest of the way but have not rode the ski since. I don’t want to ruin a top end just trying to ride it how it is. I’ll be ordering an airbox this week and go back to stock! Thank you for the help!
 
Exhaust leaking under the seat is a rpm killer! Too much and the ski won't run at all. Be sure to get that fixed first or it's never gonna act right.
 
It was acting right the hole time I think I have just gotten used to my GP1800 riding that all season and expected more from the seadoo haha. I went and rode it around for 20 mins ran great, jumped a couple wakes, and carving. Turned to sharp at one point and threw myself off the ski. It did not flip. It would double beep and crank but not start. After about ten tries trying to crank it over my brand new agm battery was full blown dead. Got towed back to my dock and the battery is super hot. I pulled it out of the machine and put in my brand new Walmart battery that didn’t give enough cranking amps to fire it. I just wanted to turn it over and make sure no water was in the engine which there was not. I cranked it over three times with plugs out and twice with plugs in. Turns over but no fire(which I expected out of the Walmart battery) let it sit for three hours and thought I should go see if that one is hot to the touch and it was. It was dark out so I just disconnected the battery for tonight. I will pull the ignition box and check fuses tomorrow but does anyone have any input to why it would have the batteries getting warm/hot without doing anything? I did put in a new rectifier a couple weeks ago and never disconnected the battery. Could that fry something up?
 
I put the new rectifier in, resoldered all positive and negative terminal rings to battery, starter, and engine ground. New starter solenoid, even ignition coil. Just to find out my Walmart battery was not holding a high enough voltage while cranking. Put the agm in and it fires right up first try. Where’s the best place to start tracing the draw? Grey box in front or ignition box? Could stator be an issue?
 
Sorry that might be confusing. Originally I bought a new Walmart battery could not get it to fire so changed all those parts trying to figure out why I wasn’t getting spark with plugs in. Bought the brand new agm and it worked fine until today when I took it for the first ride since I bought it. Started up fine but after about a half hour of riding and falling off pulling the lanyard off it wouldn’t start back up( made same sound as if the Walmart battery was in like voltage was not high enough) eventually beeps went away and cranking went away as well. Tested the agm with load tester when I got back to dock and it was super dead.
 
Dead battery isn't getting charged obviously. I agree with stock air box, who would rather tune carbs as opposed to ride?

That said, old carbs might still be corroded, make sure the low speed circuit (esp pilot holes) is whistle clean.
If you were to buy known good carbs (such as new), and install factory air box, make sure fuel lines are tight so it's not pulling air into the fuel lines, it should run great!

Don't forget, running with lean bog will roast a piston.
 
Dead battery isn't getting charged obviously. I agree with stock air box, who would rather tune carbs as opposed to ride?

That said, old carbs might still be corroded, make sure the low speed circuit (esp pilot holes) is whistle clean.
If you were to buy known good carbs (such as new), and install factory air box, make sure fuel lines are tight so it's not pulling air into the fuel lines, it should run great!

Don't forget, running with lean bog will roast a piston.
Thanks for the reply. I got it out on the water the other day and had more issues. At this point I’m almost ready for a piston to get roasted and I can just have the entire engine rebuilt. It would probably be cheaper then trying to have someone diagnose my issues and get to the bottom of them lol.
 
Long story short... hahaha never messed with carbs. Got it to run alright. I’m pretty much done with it for the season. I need to pull the head at WOT I can hear the piston slap. Need to see if a top end will be ok or if it needs a full tear down. Basically it’s been a pain in the butt but a joy the few times I got to ride it hahaha
 
I bought some motors im working on if its running use it. im having a hard time taken them apart salt water torch for every bolt. I bought I nice ski for 350 with a trailer so im working on havin a spare ski .
and a spare motor . summer so short its good to have spares. mine is a pain to keep running nice also seems like the carbs are always an issue I may remove the dual carbs and install the single carb I bet the tunning will be much easier, and I heard its only a 5 hp loss . all my motors are all 717s and they all came with one carb except my running ski all gti models one 96 and two 97 models . . its a fun ski. I hit 50 once. when running bad 37 top lol but most the time 45 so ill stay with it for now I found once I hit about 42 its fun. good luck !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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