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can i remove my oil tank?
- Thread starter jdanthony
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Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
you can certainly remove & loop, either add a T-Fitting to the two lines (so you can top it off) or a t-fitting with a reservoir so you can more easily see when your losing a little and top it off easier. But your gaining nothing to be honest except a little bit of a sleeker look inside the engine. If there is oil in it, its no leaking, i'd simply leave it alone until for some reason your pulling the engine, or your really really bored and want a simple project to avoid dusting the living room or something like that.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
then i'd suggest going with the loop.
we discussed this for a few post's here on this thread.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?74874-1995-Seadoo-HX-project/page3
note: if the oil tank doesn't leak, you can sell it, I have sold quite a few for $30+ If it leaks and you plan on putting it back in, I have new OEM grommets for like $12 shipped.
while gas tank is out,,, check for recall, you might get a nice brand new tank out of the deal, if not, clean it up real nice inside and out, no better time...
ALSO for the fuel, consider a T-Tank, now is the time... and I really appreciated having the extra 3 gallons of gas myself... made a big difference in my riding range. Side note on t-tank, running the filler tube is a PITA, and you have to cut down the storage bin, there is also a thread on that subject as well, buried around here somewhere (I tried a quick search but came up blank, but I know its out there lol)
while its out, the obvious suggestions are to: clean the hull out really well, replace any/all lines that are in question, inspect everything from the motor mounts on up to the seat, make sure all cables are 100%, etc...
we discussed this for a few post's here on this thread.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?74874-1995-Seadoo-HX-project/page3
note: if the oil tank doesn't leak, you can sell it, I have sold quite a few for $30+ If it leaks and you plan on putting it back in, I have new OEM grommets for like $12 shipped.
while gas tank is out,,, check for recall, you might get a nice brand new tank out of the deal, if not, clean it up real nice inside and out, no better time...
ALSO for the fuel, consider a T-Tank, now is the time... and I really appreciated having the extra 3 gallons of gas myself... made a big difference in my riding range. Side note on t-tank, running the filler tube is a PITA, and you have to cut down the storage bin, there is also a thread on that subject as well, buried around here somewhere (I tried a quick search but came up blank, but I know its out there lol)
while its out, the obvious suggestions are to: clean the hull out really well, replace any/all lines that are in question, inspect everything from the motor mounts on up to the seat, make sure all cables are 100%, etc...
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96spxpos
Well-Known Member
[MENTION=74730]jdanthony[/MENTION] on my spx, I used the blockoff kit and premix, but since it is a gauged ski, I kept the oil tank so I don't have that red light blaring in my eyeball all day (my subconscious will always think something's wrong, even if there wasn't)... I know you can also eep the oil tank and just "short out" the oil sensor wire, but personally, I don't want to mess with anything like that..
On my 1995 HX, the tank was already gone, so I had no choice, but also, there are no gauges in the stock HX so I don't have to worry about the red oil low light. The PO however, did not block it off properly, which requires a blockoff kit and removal of the oil pump assembly and gear, as well as looping the incoming and return lines, which he didn't even loop and clamp, just slid one tube inside the other, causing oil residue all over the inside of the hull.
I did go with the "T" setup from a Peak radiator flush kit that was like $1.98 at Walmart, because there is also a cap on top, where you can add/remove RV oil as necessary.
On my 1995 HX, the tank was already gone, so I had no choice, but also, there are no gauges in the stock HX so I don't have to worry about the red oil low light. The PO however, did not block it off properly, which requires a blockoff kit and removal of the oil pump assembly and gear, as well as looping the incoming and return lines, which he didn't even loop and clamp, just slid one tube inside the other, causing oil residue all over the inside of the hull.
I did go with the "T" setup from a Peak radiator flush kit that was like $1.98 at Walmart, because there is also a cap on top, where you can add/remove RV oil as necessary.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
Looking to save that extra .001 lbs so the ski will gain 20 MPH?
My vote is just leave it
My vote is just leave it
AdamXP800
Well-Known Member
I rode and abused a 96 spx and Gti for 10 years with the only service done to them was changing spark plugs. This was way before I had a clue what I was doing but both of those skis had 600+ hours on them with oil injection and still ran exactly as they did new the day I sold them
96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
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